Garnet Valley Ranch is not one of those places you stumble across. You really need to want to go there. And now you can—see below. It’s actually not that complicated, just a wee bit tucked away, a couple of kilometres above and beyond Summerland.
That ‘above and beyond’ element is what sets Garnet Valley Ranch apart. It’s no secret: wineries everywhere are planting higher than ever before. Witness what’s been happening in Argentina, where there’s now no shortage of vines taking root as high as 2,500 metres—and more.
Just 20 years ago, planting at those elevations in the Okanagan were considered beyond the pale. Even before the ‘great pull out’ of the late 1980s (and before) growers had learned the hard way not to plant on the valley floor—a magnet for vine-killing frosts. However, four decades ago, as a rule, most higher sites were considered too cold and short-seasoned. Hence most of BC’s remarkable growth has taken place on the mid-level benches, especially on the glacial deposit fans found throughout the Okanagan and Similkameen.
Garnet Valley Ranch, early days, in spring 2019
Garnet Valley Ranch: the evolution
Garnet Valley Ranch is the latest project from pioneering Haywire owners Christine Coletta and Steve Lornie. Well, as for ‘the latest’, maybe not. It’s now just over a decade since they purchased this remarkable 320 acre parcel high above Summerland.
From the outset of their Haywire adventure Coletta and Lornie have worked with renowned oenologist Alberto Antonini and soil guru Pedro Parra. That relationship not only laid the groundwork for 100 percent organic certification. It also inspired the duo to think beyond conventional grape-growing boundaries. Or, according to Parra’s mantra, to pursue ‘extreme viticulture.’
Christine Coletta and Steve Lornie
“At this altitude, the soils are more interesting, the season is shorter and more intense and the temperatures cooler,” said Coletta, when I interviewed her for Vitis magazine. “We see strong phenolic ripeness at lower sugar levels and, in the resulting finished wines, lower alcohol levels, better acidity and balance.”
I’ve visited Garnet Valley Ranch a few times since the purchase and watched its remarkable but ecologically sensitive transformation. As much as possible the area not under vine has been left wild. Right off the bat the early plantings, even as young vines, yielded impressive results.
As has been so often the case, Coletta and Lornie here again are trailblazers. No doubt we can expect to see others following their example, taking the leap into ‘extreme viticulture.’ (Not to be overlooked, there are a couple of other important, already high altitude plantings, including Culmina Margaret’s Bench and Terry Meyer Stone and husband Terry Stone’s Anarchist Mountain Vineyard.)
A balanced ecosystem
Today, side by side with the vineyard are various other crops, as well as a lavender farm, bee hives and a restored wildlife pond. The surrounding habitat remains in its natural state, while buildings complement the landscape. The understated Outlook Visitor Centre rewards with panoramic views of the range above Summerland. You can join a wait list to book a private tour in season (for up to six people) here.
Last month saw the inaugural releases from Garnet Valley Ranch. And they’re impressive, to say the least. The wines are available from the winery on line and, exclusively, in Vancouver at Legacy Liquor Store and exclusively in Victoria at Vessel Liquor.
Garnet Valley Ranch Traditional Method
Garnet Valley Ranch Traditional Method Sparkling 2016
Coletta says sparkling wine was very much the driving force behind Garnet Valley Ranch. It’s the main reason the vineyard is planted primarily to Chardonnay and Pinot Noir (along with some Riesling, of course…). This Pinot / Chard traditional blend has been aged for six years and rewards accordingly. With a lively stream of fine bubbles and excellent mousse, it sports up-front brioche and bready notes, with red berry hints on the nose before a generous, juicy but elegant and bone-dry palate of citrus and creamy elements through the lengthy, zesty toned finish. Not that far removed from Champagne… 93 pts. $49.99
Garnet Valley Ranch Chardonnay 2021
Forward tropical, stone-fruit and citrus aromas lead to a well balanced palate of citrus, pineapple and mineral notes wrapped in generous mouth feel and supported by good acidity, with added texture from fermenting in concrete and lees-aging, through a lengthy, lingering juicy close. Layered and complex. Whole cluster pressed and aged in concrete and stainless steel tanks. 92 pts. $36.99
Garnet Valley Ranch Pinot Noir
Garnet Valley Ranch Pinot Noir 2021
Vibrant red berry fruits up front with earthy hints, followed by a raspberry and cherry toned palate complemented by a keen savoury edge, light to medium bodied with very focused fruit and well balanced tannins through a lengthy finish. Half the fruit was whole cluster basket pressed then aged in small neutral barriques as well as in custom small concrete tanks made using local materials. 91 pts. A young wine with loads of promise. $44.99
However, there are plenty more reasons to visit Summerland in addition to haywire and garnet Valley Ranch …
Discover Summerland’s Bottleneck Drive
In spring 2020 (right before the pandemic) we drove the Princeton to Summerland back road. Once the snow melts it’s well maintained and offers a truly delightful and idyllic alternative route to the central Okanagan. Best of all, you arrive in the rural area behind Summerland proper, an area dotted with wineries, cideries, distilleries and other artisanal endeavours.
Entering Summerland from the Princeton Road
The road leaves Princeton on 5A just north of the bridge. Turn to the right, before you head up the hill. Watch for the sign on the left before the mill. Make sure you have a full tank (or full charge!) before you go. It’s an easy and relaxing drive through some absolutely stunning country.
No shortage of worthy winery (and other) contenders makes it easy to spend a full day or more in the area. Do some digging around and you’ll find lots to like, from Dirty Laundry to Lightning Rock, Lunessence and more.
A cozy corner at Haywire tasting lounge
Thanks to a recent facelift, Haywire now sports an airy and comfortable tasting lounge as well as outdoor seating. Ideally, make a reservation as this Summerland anchor is becoming increasingly well-known and popular. On the distillery side, another ‘don’t miss’ is Alchemist Distiller. (Call before you go…)
Alchemist Distiller owners Simon and Sandrine at BC Distilled
The town itself is quaint and genuinely friendly, with a wide array of interesting, mainly independently owned shops, restaurants and small businesses.
The Beanery, downtown Summerland
Take the time to stroll around. And if you want to dine at lakeside Shaughnessy’s Cove, make sure you book in plenty of time.
The best way to plan your Summerland tour (and fully explore each of the region’s three recently declared Sub-GIs) is to head over to www.bottleneckdrive.com and click on ‘Map + Wine Routes.’
Summerland lake view – Stephanie Seaton photo
Click here or on the graphic to download the full size Bottleneck Drive map
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