BC sparkling wines continue to be one of the fastest growing categories in the domestic market. No wonder. There’s an array of well made BC bubbles from which to choose.
Here’s a short list (mainly) of what I’ve tasting recently, any of which would do justice to your table or patio this BC Day long weekend. And while it may be short, for sure, it does comprise sparkling wines from across the province. There are plenty more to track down—to really put some BC sparkle in your summer!
Howling Bluff Perspective Frizzante 2021
Here’s a truly delicious bubble from this small but very focused winery on the Naramata Bench. When I first tasted I was curious as to what the variety was. Imagine my surprise when I discovered it was Pinot Gris. This may well be the best use for Pinot Gris in the entire province. ;-) Lovely forward notes of brioche and orchard fruits followed by a well textured citrus and quite zesty palate, crisp and dry, supported by excellent mouthfeel. 92 pts. Look for it at better private stores. Or, why not order a six pack from the winery at $23.48 a bottle? If you’re lucky enough to be in the valley, drop by and enjoy a glass on their patio.
Red Roster NV Traditional Method Brut
Red Rooster winemaker Elaine Vickers continues to impress, as evidenced by this classic mainly Chardonnay (89%) Pinot Noir blend made with Okanagan and Similkameen fruit. Very bubbly with a great stream and persistent mousse with lots of orchard fruits on top and an apple and citrus toned palate with some appealing leesy notes. Also worth noting, just 11% ABV. 92 pts. $35 at the winery or a few $ more from private stores.
Garnet Valley Ranch Traditional Method Sparkling 2016
This Pinot Noir / Chardonnay traditional blend has been aged for six years and rewards accordingly. With a lively stream of fine bubbles and excellent mousse, it sports up-front brioche and bready notes, with red berry hints on the nose before a generous, juicy but elegant and bone-dry palate of citrus and creamy elements through the lengthy, zesty toned finish. Not that far removed from Champagne… and definitely solid proof that this remarkable site is a natural choice for making great sparkling wine. 93 pts. $49.99
Crowsnest The Nest Brut 2022
Here’s a fun wine from one of the Similkameen Valley’s original wineries, which dates from 1985. (I remember first visiting in the early 1990s when the tasting room was in the current owners’ parents’ living room.) This Charmat method sparkling wine (as in Prosecco) blend of Riesling, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay sports some appealing bright citrus notes before a fresh and lively lemon and red apple palate with some nutty hints. 90 pts. $25.95 at the winery or private stores.
Zanatta Tradizionale Brut NV
This has to be one of the best kept secrets on Vancouver Island! It’s been a while since I’ve visited this charming Cowichan Valley winery, so we jumped at the chance when we spotted this sparkler at Spinnakers in James Bay, Victoria. Made in the traditional method with (I’m guessing) a lot of time on the lees, it’s all Cowichan estate-grown Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Lots of pear and toasty brioche notes up front, fine, long lasting bubbles, with wickedly good texture and length, very reminiscent of some ‘gout anglaise’ Champagne styles. 92 pts. $35 ($31 at the winery).
Hester Creek Old Vines Brut 2020
Winemaker Mark Hopley uses (all too often overlooked) Pinot Blanc for this traditional method sparkling wine because it delivers excellent structure—as well as super flavours. The grapes come from one of the original blocks planted back in 1968, on what’s now the Golden Mile Bench sub-GI. Hand-picked, hand-sorted and whole cluster pressed, en tirage for 24 months. In the glass, a stream of fine bubbles delivers a persistent mousse, with forward brioche and orchard fruits. The palate sports an appealing, creamy mouthfeel and good acidity with bright zesty notes and a touch of minerality through a lengthy finish. 92 pts. $34.99 —another excellent value. This wine is rapidly becoming a hallmark BC sparkler. At the winery or private stores.
Tinhorn Creek Blanc de Blancs 2018
I was more than impressed by this BC bubble, which is Tinhorn Creek’s first entry into sparkling wine. So too, apparently, were the folks at Decanter, who gave it a silver medal. Made with 100% Chardonnay grapes the wine spent 36 months on the lees. Up-front citrus and orchard fruits with some stony hints and a lively stream of bubbles with solid mousse before a lemon-lime sherbet, well structured, acid-driven palate through a crisp, zesty end. 92 pts. $45
Frind NV Brut
Frind winemaker Eric von Krosigk (pictured at the top, at VIWF) has been making sparkling wine for just about as long as anybody in the Okanagan Valley, since 1983. After launching Summerhill with Stephen Cipes he went on to make wine for the late Harry McWatters at then Lecompte Winery—now SYL Ranch. EVK likes to work with Riesling, as evidenced by this Frind NV Brut Traditional Method, a mainly Riesling (76%) and Chardonnay blend that sports lively bubbles and a persistent mousse, with some brioche / biscuit and stone-fruit aromas before a generous citrus and green apple palate. $24.99 (on special at BCLS through July 29; regular $26.99) No recent score. (HB 91 pts 2021). Widely available.
BC sparkling wine—recent results
If you’re wondering how BC compares with sparklers from across the country, have a look at the results just released from 2023 National Wine Awards of Canada (NWAC). BC fares very well across the board. (Full disclosure: I helped judge.) Of note in particular is the showing by Seven Stars (Township 7’s dedicated sparkling brand), whose ascendance continues. I’ve been a longtime fan, even more since they launched the separate label.
BC sparkling wine also fared well at the All Canadian Wine Championships (ACWC) in early June (which I also helped judge). The big winner here was Chronos Brut (HB 92pts. Time Family Wines), scoring best traditional method sparkling wine and the trophy for best overall sparkling in the competition.
Cans on a roll…
As BC inches towards more sustainable packaging options, wine in cans is a rapidly growing reality. Several wineries, including Stag’s Hollow and Mayhem (and many more) now offer variations of their wines in cans, including sparkling wines. They’re becoming increasingly popular, especially with folks looking for the convenience of a single serving. My picks from this group were the lightly spritzed and blossom-y Stag’s Hollow Muscat Frizzante 2022, and Mayhem’s lively cherry toned Sparkling Rosé 2022. Not labelled as such (VQA hasn’t caught up yet) but they’re all made with grown in BC grapes, are eminently quaffable and make for great picnic companions. Just make sure you pack along a (plastic) wine glass too.
Interestingly, Angus An’s Fat Mao Thai Vancouver noodle houses have a list of wines almost entirely in cans, including sparkling wines and piquette, that are especially popular with the lunch crowd.
A good time to buy…
My advice would be to get your hands on as much good BC sparkling wine as you can right now. Supply may be limited in the next few years as a result of recent winter damage. What’s more, prices are likely to increase accordingly. Most of these wines are currently quite moderately priced, especially considering their overall good quality. You might well be glad you took time to tuck some away.
However, don’t just take it from me. Here’s part of what NWAC Judge Janet Dorozynsky had to say when comparing Canadian sparkling wine to the rest of the world.
“ … I would also add that many of the medal winners are well priced—between $30 and $40 a bottle, with quality and excitement that beats many grand marque Champagne any day.”
For a longer read and much more of a deep dive into BC Bubbles, please check out my story in Vitis.
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