TWB (The Wine Bar) and Provence Marinaside may surely lay claim to being among Vancouver’s most resilient restaurants. Owner-chef Jean-Francis Quaglia was quick to adapt to the pandemic.
In its early stages he proved to be a natural ‘on-line’ chef, recording videos to show people how to recreate popular dinners to put together at home. He also took prompt advantage of the city’s expanded outdoor seating permits in lieu of parking.
TWB: a Pandemic Pause
While Provence Marinaside’s main dining room has been ‘back to normal’ for a while, popular TWB remained closed during the entire time—and the restaurant’s ground-breaking wine on tap program was mothballed.
Happily, as of May 1st, all that changed—just in time for TWB’s 10th anniversary.
TWB wine director Joshua Carlson. Photo: Ron Wilson – Cheap & Cheerful
Provence wine director Joshua Carlson explains, while the restaurant reopened as health restrictions allowed, it still wasn’t easy. Extra space was needed to safely distance tables. Hence it wasn’t feasible to operate the extensive wine, beer and other taps that line one entire wall of Provence. As for TWB—well it’s compact and delightfully cozy—and that just didn’t play well in pandemic times.
However, now that TWB is back, along with warm, summer-like weather, there’s no better time to visit.
Wine by the Glass Pioneers
TWB Glass poured from tap
Vancouver has a long history of wine by the glass that placed it in the vanguard, well ahead of other Canadian cities. In great part that early movement was driven by (sadly closed) Raincity Grill, who would open almost any bottle on their list to pour by the glass.
Suffice to say that Provence | TWB has now assumed that crown: Carlson’s list spans an impressive selection of 260 or more wines. Of those, remarkably, no less than 125 are wines offered by the glass—from every major wine producing region in the world.
Wine by the glass has evolved considerably in just a few years, with only a few bumps in the road. Carlson and Quaglia are quick to point out, while TWB | Provence’s impressive 48 taps offer many benefits, rigorous maintenance is also crucial. The lines are thoroughly cleaned on a monthly schedule.
A New Focus
Any lingering doubts that existed about wine on tap’s integrity have also vanished. Carlson insists that the last glass from every keg is just as fresh as the first. He’s currently planning TWB’s 2024’s offerings and in September will travel to the Okanagan to finalize barrel purchases.
While the keg selection is mainly focused on current vintages TWB also sports some surprises—including a beautifully textured older vintage of Meyer Vineyards McLean Creek Chardonnay. Also not to be overlooked is a pretty wicked Negroni on tap!
In addition, the top end of the list features a number of premium wines, poured by the ounce, from the restaurant’s Enomatic wine preservation unit. This system keeps wine in the bottle under dense argon gas, with impressive results.
Carlson says the pandemic gave him time to reflect on the wine program, “to re-think and re-focus the list. As we’re a French restaurant I decided our wine list should shine a spotlight on the wines of France, especially those of the south of France, as well as wines produced here in BC. I’m a firm believer in ‘what grows together, goes together.’”
Wine on Tap: the Sustainable Edge
We’ve been following the wine on tap movement just about since Day One. Carlson notes the advantages of tapped products needing less storage and resulting in a considerable reduction in the number of bottles to be handled. But there are also other benefits, including the ability to precisely control temperatures by wine type, which contributes to the guest experience. And, of course, a reduction in shipping weights and carbon footprint. There are slight savings, says Carlson, passed on to the customer where possible.
TWB: Happy Hour delights
TWB Happy Hour calamari
TWB’s happy hour is easy going and laid back, with plenty of classic tastes from which to choose. Here’s what you can find on any given day during Happy Hour at TWB, whether you choose to sit inside or out where—with boats a-bobbing across the way—you can channel your inner Cannes!
TWB Happy Hour shrimp
A few highlights from our extensive TWB happy hour sampling included: nicely crisped calamari, super freshly shucked Fanny Bay oysters on the half shell, escargots in garlic, parsley and brandy sauce; perfect pommes frites; fresh shrimp and grilled avocado; Kalamata olive, anchovy tapenade; freshly baked warm mini baguette in a bag… and more.
TWB Happy Hour oysters
All this along with such a wealth of wine by the glass makes it the perfect spot to linger, come rain or shine.
A few noteworthy wine picks: Cotes de Provence Tibouren Clos Cibonne Cru Classé, Le Grand Cros Esprit de Provence Rosé and the mineral toned Cotes du Roussillon Res Fortes Grenache Gris and Macabeu blend.
Be warned: This is a highly seductive list! ;-)
TWB at Provence Marinaside
1177 Marinaside Crescent,
Vancouver, BC V6Z 2Y3
(604) 681-4144
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