Ten years since opening Okanagan Crush Pad, owner Christine Coletta oversaw a minor facelift. This summer the giant, abstract mural on the winery’s 100 ft. south facing wall was reworked by artist Scott Sueme. Scott painted the original mural ten years ago.
“To honour turning the corner on our first 10 years at Okanagan Crush Pad and looking forward to our next exciting decade, I thought that there could be no better way to celebrate than by commissioning Scott to ‘vandalize’ the building again,” says Coletta.
“I’m thrilled that Scott’s come back, I’m a huge fan of his work. He’s done the art for our Narrative and Free Form labels. He’s one of those people in my life where I’m thrilled to see his career and watch him progress over the years. He’s just such a solid individual.”
Coletta is hoping people will come visit, especially as the air is clear and the closest fires are well enough away.
Ten Years of Crushing It
It’s no surprise that Okanagan Crush Pad has emerged as a driving force within the industry. From working with concrete instead of oak, to moving entirely to organic viticulture and production, Coletta’s experience and acumen are apparent at every turn.
Christine Coletta and her husband Steve Lornie started out by buying an old apple orchard and converting it to grapes. Initially they sold grapes to Gray Monk, until the idea to open their own winery became irresistible. Their early business plan revolved around a crush pad, to make wines for others wanting to launch their own brands—a natural fit with Coletta’s strong marketing background.
I thought it a good time to ask Christine to talk about the journey so far.
Haywire to Okanagan Crush Pad: the Genesis
Hired Belly (HB): Going back to when you announced plans to build the winery and had that concrete egg fermenter shoe-horned down the back lane in North Van, did you have any idea where things were going to go?
Christine Coletta (CC): “Absolutely not. Otherwise, I would have sent the egg back to Sonoma and gone to Europe on an extended holiday!”
“The interesting thing is that in this business one thing leads to another. You start by making wine. You have an ethical brand. You need more vineyards, or you need more grapes. You get more grapes—from a contract grower. And then that grower sells. Then you have that ‘aha’ moment that says: ‘Oh, if I’m going to have grapes, I need a reliable source that I can control.”
Early days, consultant Alberto Antonini with David Scholefield in 2010
And so that leads to more vineyard land, which leads to more planting. And so you find yourself constantly moving to the next thing. It’s a slow awakening, until you look around and you find yourself with this, you know, pretty significant operation.”
HB. So you never really planned to grow so big?
CC. “In our case that was never the intention, but it is the practical, sensible way to operate, because you can control it. We were now in a place where we could control our viticulture. We were organic certified. Before, we had growers who were going organic for us—and then, you know, got cold feet. Or, had something happening to the vines that they were worried about, so they sprayed. And that set them back for years. So we’re now in control of our destiny. Or, as it relates to vineyard and grape supply, in control of our own production.”
“We now have our own grapes and our own facility. We started out as a virtual brand at the mercy of others. There’s all sorts of things over the last 10 years where we had the slow realization that we need to be in control of these aspects. So I think that leads you to have a bigger operation than you originally envisioned. But it’s a prudent operation, it makes sense. It’s sound.’’
A Higher Calling
HB. What was the thinking behind Garnet Valley (Okanagan Crush Pad’s high altitude planting)?
CC. “The thinking was: we wanted a large tract of land that had never been farmed with herbicides or pesticides. And finding that is very, very difficult. So we had to think (and look) outside the box. I mean ‘box’ literally because Garnet Valley was not in the Wine Atlas—where everything is defined by a box—which stops just south of where the property begins.”
Garnet Valley, Summerland, in spring
HB. Just how challenging was it?
CC. “We took a chance on it. It’s a very hard piece of property to farm. But once you get a crop from there, the results are spectacular. It’s really hard going to establish the vines; and takes an extra year, if not two. But the fruit we’re getting from Garnet is spectacular. We’ve got Riesling, Chardonnay, and Pinot Noir that are all coming in. And they’re truly exceptional. So, it’s well worth the effort. We’re going to be doing something there that isn’t being done anywhere else. And I think that’s the whole point of winemaking, isn’t it? Well, non-commodity winemaking, I should say!”
Weighing in on Packaging
HB. I’ve noticed a few ridiculously overweight BC wine bottles showing up recently. What’s your take on heavy bottles and wine packaging in general?
CC. “Yes, well, (UK wine critic) Jancis Robinson has been beating that ‘NHB’ (Naughty Heavy Bottle) drum for decades. Still some of the biggest offenders are coming from Chile and other places far afield. We use super-lightweight glass, with the exception of our sparkling wine, which, of course, needs to be in heavier glass.”
Haywire’s The Bub: in crown cap since Day One
“I think heavy bottles have to be a thing of the past. But the consumer hangs on to old notions—like the heavy bottle. If you consider sparkling wine under cork, cage and foil—look at all the materials that are in there. It’s so wasteful compared to a little crown cap. But people have a notion that it’s somehow less (quality) if it’s packaged that way.”
“It’s taken us producers a long time to hit people over the head with Stelvin. Personally, I’m incredibly lazy: if something comes to me with a cork in it, give me a screw cap, yes, please!” Or a ‘pooch-pouch’ …
“Actually, I think the new generation of drinker is annoyed by glass in general. They want a can, they really do. I sat down with some young people last week. By ‘young’ I mean 24. And, you know they’re drinking White Claw (hard seltzer). I was, like, ‘Okay, what do I need to do to move you from that to wine?’ They said, ‘Well, make it lower alcohol for one—because we’re used to crushing six of them—and put it in a can.’
Never mind the heavy bottle. I think the next generation is going to be happy with anything that comes in a can.”
People Power
HB. What are a few of the surprises, good and bad, that you’ve encountered along the way?
CC. “I would say: people, my people. The core team that I have around me. How impressed I am with their capabilities, their talent—and their dedication to just getting it done. I’ll give you a great example: when we had the fires licking at Garnet Valley (in 2017 and 2018) everyone just dropped everything they were doing and came and helped. Matt Dumayne (winemaker) wouldn’t leave the property. He just said, ‘I’m not leaving.’ The same with (vineyard manager) Duncan Billings, and others. it was so impressive.”
“Plus it’s been great to watch people grow. Like Jordan Kubek (a little pipsqueak in 2011 when she joined us!) sort of ‘graduating’ and going off with Tyler (Knight) to do their own thing at Lighting Rock. You get a lot of pride in watching people grow like that. Also watching people grow into different jobs in the winery, like Julian Scholefield. And now Emma Scholefield, his daughter, is working at the winery. And my own daughter, Allison (Scholefield) doing 9 million different jobs!”
“I think the people part of it is the part that’s given me the greatest joy.”
“On the other hand, I’m always surprised how polarized this industry still is, even after all these years. Sometimes I get tired of being the watchdog—and annoyed that a watchdog is still required. It doesn’t make sense.”
“We should all be able to play together. We should all be looking out for one another. We should understand that we need everyone: small, medium and large; all shapes and sizes. We shouldn’t be conspiring against one another. We should have government and organizations that, truly, work to represent us all.”
Okanagan Crush Pad: The next chapter
HB. What’s the most dramatic thing you’ve noticed?
CC. “The continual entry of new wineries. I’m sure when we got into the business, in 2011, there were people shaking their heads saying ‘there’s no room for them.’ And now, ten years later, I’m shaking my head and saying, ‘But there’s no room for these people.’ Or ‘Where are they getting their grape supply from…’. It just continues to blow my mind as to (how many) people (are) getting into the business. Where are the grapes coming from? How are they going to grow? It’s the number one question that I ask myself. I just wonder and worry, collectively, where we’re going to find the land.”
HB. Overall, how about the next ten years?
CC. As unpredictable as the first ten years have been, I’m pretty sure the next ten will be the same. I’ve learned never to say ‘never.’ So when people say, ‘Oh, will you be doing this?’ I now say: ‘Very possibly.’ Even though I may have an idea of what the next 10 years is going to bring, I will probably be wrong. Either way, it’ll be an exciting journey.”
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Consistently high scoring, these are our most recent Okanagan Crush Pad wines reviewed.
Haywire Pinot Noir 2018 BC VQA
Vibrant red and dark berries up front with impressive pure fruit character that defines Garnet Valley Ranch, which is between 600 and 680 metres above sea level and organically farmed from the outset. Fauna and flora are preserved around the vineyard site which includes a restored pond to attract more wild life. Also planted are eight acres of organic vegetables. Fermented in concrete and open top stainless steel tanks with native yeasts. Light to medium bodied with strawberry, cherry and wild berry notes wrapped in well balanced natural acidity and nicely integrated tannins. The palate moves to a more savoury, herbaceous element with a touch of saline through the lingering finish, with every vintage showing more complexity as these still young vines continue to mature. 92 pts. $39.90
Secrest Mountain Pinot Noir 2019 BC VQA
OK Crush Pad enjoyed a long relationship with Secrest Mountain owners Brad and Dave Wise since 2010 before purchasing the vineyard in 2018 and later completing the transition to organic started in 2014. The higher elevation site, just north of Oliver, adjacent to Covert Farms, includes 15 ha. on a flat, south-west facing bench at 487m. above sea-level. This wine reflects its alluvial and gravel soils with sandy loam and limestone. Open top stainless steel fermented and aged in concrete, unfiltered and unfined. An initially restrained nose with some earthy and chalky hints opens to with a medium-bodied, layered and complex palate of raspberry and strawberry flavours underpinned by elegant tannins, with more savoury and distinct mineral undertones through the finish. An excellent varietal expression. $34.90 92 pts
Free Form Cabernet Franc Rosé 2019 BC VQA
100 percent Osoyoos grown organic Cabernet Franc, from a southeast facing site, certified organic since 2012. Naturally fermented entirely in concrete, which, along with malolactic fermentation and extended lees aging, contributes to the generous mouthfeel and texture. Pale copper in the glass with aromas of red berries and stone fruit. A juicy palate defined by fresh fruit and balanced acidity, strawberry and quince with a little savoury undertone. We also love the label art (by Vancouver artist @ScottSueme), an abstract nod to the glacial activity that helped shape the Okanagan’s geology. Free Form wine labels are also printed on a revolutionary paper—made not from trees but from stone and, remarkably, with no water used in the process. $27.90 92 pts.
Narrative Chenin Blanc 2019 BC VQA
This wine offers a pretty good summary of the path taken by Okanagan Crush Pad since Day One, as it reflects the winery and winemaker Matt Dumayne’s mantra of minimal intervention.
The grapes are whole bunch pressed and fermented (using wild yeast) in concrete eggs. OK Crush Pad was the first to adopt them in BC and likely the first in Canada. In recent years the winery has invested heavily in more eggs. And has just built its own (square) concrete tanks using sand and gravel from each of its three vineyards.
This Narrative Chenin Blanc 2019 is a delicious, vibrant and juicy wine that simply allows the purity of the fruit to shine through while the texture is amplified by the concrete. Up front floral and citrus notes lead to a luscious, tropical toned palate with zesty citrus, keenly focused acidity and underlying minerality through a lengthy end. 92 pts.
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