21 Reasons to Read ‘The Distilleries of Vancouver Island’

When you pick up a copy of The Distilleries of Vancouver Island it feels substantial. As it should. After all, Marianne Scott’s truly spirited guide is the first comprehensive documentation of a remarkable story. 

The rise of craft distilling is a phenomenon witnessed throughout BC and well beyond. However, much of the initial surge occurred on southern Vancouver Island. All of which partly explains why there are now over a score of artisan distillers on or around the Island. Twenty-one, to be precise—and counting.

Leaving no stone unturned the author introduces the reader to every one. Yet, despite the remarkable depth of research Scott’s style remains informal and approachable throughout. This is a book that appeals to casual tipplers and serious spirit hounds alike. It’s as much about what’s in the glass and how it gets there as the people who make it happen. And what moves them to do so.

Graeme Macaloney with Forsyths pot stills (M.Scott photo)

Each chapter explores a different Island distillery and talks with its owners and distillers. Often interwoven with local lore, the stories whet your appetite to visit. To that end, and help plan realistically, The Distilleries of Vancouver Island is smartly organized by region. There’s plenty more, from lists of products to awards won and cocktails to make. Not to mention an introduction to every aspect of distilling, complete with glossary.  It is, in short, a veritable tour de force.

A little history

Precisely what’s driving Canada’s distilling craze is still up for debate. However, one thing’s for sure. Up until the last couple of decades, when governments finally began to relax the rules, it was nigh impossible to get started.

Obtaining a distillery license was like pulling proverbial teeth. At one time, only those ‘grandfathered’ under existing law could produce liquor. Further complicating matters, outside government liquor stores, only hotels could sell it. Hence, for years, major distillers monopolized the market.

One man who helped drive the change was Vernon’s Frank Dieter. A career forester, Deiter had always nurtured a passion for spirits. In 2002 he realized fallen apples and other fruits could be put to much better use than being allowed to just rot. The following year he successfully navigated the necessary bureaucracies to found Okanagan Spirits.

Deiter went to work making the likes of ‘Canados.’  The tongue-in-cheek salute to Calvados won acclaim in major European competitions such as Austria’s World Spirits Awards. Next he developed an Absinthe (named ‘Taboo’) and others followed.

Sharing the wealth

The distiller was also busy assisting others to get established—especially on Vancouver Island. (Deiter worked closely with Germany’s respected Müller Pot Stills, which he joined formally in 2011.) Those early launches included Merridale Cider Works & Distillery and Ken Winchester (Winchester Spirits). The first BC winemaker to embark on spirits, Winchester spearheaded Victoria Gin—now made by Victoria Spirits. He’s now master distiller at Devine (where he originally joined as winemaker in 2008).

As Scott explains, Merridale owner Rick Pipes and Frank Deiter lobbied the province to come up with a framework for the Craft Distillery License introduced in 2013. In that year local distilling began to come into its own. She writes “…for the first time, craft distilling became a legally permitted and financially worthwhile enterprise. The new licensing has created a boom in craft distilleries, with more opening every year.”

Distiller Mike Pizzitelli at Arbutus Distillery, which he opened in 2014 (Marc Phillips photo)

Also worth noting is the overlap with craft brewing. Victoria’s Spinnakers (now also distilling) opened in 1984. It was the country’s first microbrew pub to be licensed since Canadian Prohibition ended in 1920. In the 1980s Spinnakers (and close cousin Horseshoe Bay Brewing) helped kick-start BC’s craft brewing movement. 

It probably didn’t hurt that the provincial Liquor Control Board was just across the bridge from Spinnakers. Or that some MLAs were among the appreciative early clientele. Across the board, a move to more common sense liquor legislation gradually began to take hold. First came the wineries, then the breweries and, finally, the distilleries.

The Distilleries of Vancouver Island: local and eclectic

Botanicals at Stillhead used to flavour gin (M. Scott photo)

Aside from the wealth of information and advice, also striking is the sheer variety of spirits and styles. There’s no shortage of ‘Island’ character in this tome, with many distilleries using local products. Vancouver Island has long been the epicentre of BC’s locavore movement. That just makes sense. It’s part of the reality of living on an island. It’s also helps cultivate the mantra of ‘grain to glass’ and similar ideals. For example, few if any others use seaweed in their gin, as does  Sheringham. 

Whisky barrels at Shelter Point, Marc Phillips photo

Island distilleries run the gamut, from still small startups like Coombs’ Misguided Spirits to 380-acre Shelter Point Farm & Distillery, near Campbell River. Dairy farmer Patrick Evans’ vision has materialised as the largest artisan spirit producer on Vancouver Island. 

Through Scott’s eyes, we get to meet them all. 

Aerial view of Shelter Point (courtesy Shelter Point)

You can find The Distilleries of Vancouver Island, by Marianne Scott (Touchwood $25) at your favourite local bookstore, as well as online. Be sure to pick up a copy for the spirit lover in your life. Or, even just for you to enjoy—glass in hand, of course!