Forage is closing. How sad! The hyper locally-focused destination room in the Listel Hotel will serve its final seating at brunch on November 17th. Its demise comes after just 12 years. During that time Forage has set the pace for sustainable dining in Vancouver. And it’s done so with singular focus and conviction that few, if any, others have. Also of note, sommelier Peter Sullivan’s wine list that left no corner (or varietal) of BC wine unexplored. Forage has long shone a spotlight on the province’s smaller producers, including wineries, craft brewers and artisan distillers.(The image above comes from an epic cocktail pairing dinner that was part of BCDistilled.)
Now the Robson Street property is being demolished to make way for high density redevelopment. In short, the relatively low-rise hotel has become no longer financially viable. Especially given that its property taxes have recently increased by about five-fold.
Even in a city not known for restaurant longevity, 12 years is a relatively short lifespan. Nonetheless, we should celebrate Forage as standard bearer of the farm to table movement. It was a natural segue from the regional-seasonal push of the 90s and noughties by stalwarts such as Raincity Grill.
Chowdown Champion
Chris Whittaker wins Chowder Chowdown 2012
I recall well when Forage opened. The very next day, chef Chris Whittaker won the Vancouver Aquarium’s hotly contested Chowder Chowdown. His dish yielded precisely just-cooked spot prawns and smokey pork rinds, topped by a perfectly poached quails egg.
Presented in Forage’s soon-to-be hallmark miniature skillet, it was a slam dunk winner.
Forage the Career Changer
“Forage will always have a special place in my heart,” Whittaker told me this week. He moved to the Shuswap in 2018 and in 2022 opened Timber Shuswap at Blind Bay.
“The Listel Hotel allowed me an opportunity to help create something very closely aligned with my philosophy as a chef. For that I will be forever thankful,” he says. “It helped shape my career and the careers of many others. The success of Forage was built on the people and the team that we had.”
Former Listel General Manager Lise Magee agrees. “Forage was so much fun—because we were doing something totally different.” Because of the local emphasis, “We met all the farmers and fishers at area markets but also often right in the kitchen. We always asked ourselves if we were doing the right thing. That included from which producers to work with to choice of stoneware. Also, for years we ran a successful live jazz venue—and we even published a book!”
Magee now co-owns and operates Mayne Island’s charming Blue Vista Resort
The Art of the Meal—and Much More
Nor was it only about food. “It was great to bring that art element into everything,” says the onetime GM. Indeed, Magee spearheaded the hotel’s artistic bent that was unique to Vancouver. It displayed original works throughout the property. For example, one floor featured First Nations artwork in every room. It was made possible through a collaboration with Vancouver’s Museum of Anthropology.
However, above all, it was in the culinary realm that Forage was a trailblazer.
“Sustainability was the forefront of every choice we made to help protect our planet,” explains chef Whittaker. “Our greatest resource ended up being a team that remained focused on all the programs we put in place. But most of all they brought the term ‘Hospitality’ to the forefront of everything we did.”
Hello Timber Shuswap
Timber Shuswap tuna (image supplied)
The chef now puts those skills and philosophy developed at Forage to good use in the new venture. He runs Timber Shuswap with his wife Marianne and a strong culinary team. The name comes from the hotel’s former, more casual gastro-pub style room.
“Timber Restaurant continues the tradition of putting sustainably, caught, harvested, grown, produced and raised products on our menus,” says Whittaker.
“By focusing on celebrating our region through BC wines, spirits and brews, we continue to push an elevated level of food. But most importantly we take care of our people and community. And hospitality continues to be at the centre of every decision we make.”
It will be some years before the new project (which will include rental housing) is completed. However, there will be another hotel. And it will likely carry on the artistic tradition. There’ll also be a restaurant which, hopefully, will echo Forage, its sustainable forebear.
In the meantime, when Forage closes on November 17th, the city’s culinary scene will be a little—no much—less sustainably driven. This as we move into what’s forecast to be globally the hottest year on record.
Farewell Forage and good Forage folks. You have more than done us proud.
*****
Read my original piece on Forage opening here
Very sad to see this property developed. As a young person working in hospitality in Vancouver, O’Doul’s was our go to place for brunch. Many fond memories of time spent with friends, co-workers and family. It never disappointed. And what a great group of people working there over the years, Lise, Margot, Chris, and Peter to name a few.
Yes, indeed. Such a great team who made it all happen. And many fond memories of O’Doul’s from before…