Something infinitely reassuring strikes me as I ease into my chair at Tutto. No doubt, that my table mates are all double vaxxed feeds that sense of security. But it also has as much to do with the red brick surroundings that cosset us. I’ll confess, I’m a sentimentalist at heart, and a soft touch for links to the past.
Tutto’s entrance faces the Homer and Smithe intersection diagonally. The four storey, low rise industrial building dates from 1908. Now a rarity among the glass towers, since then it’s seen more than a few incarnations.
It was home first to the BC Printing Corporation. Numerous lithographers followed, including long-running Bulman Bros. (If you’ve ever seen a BC postcard from that era there’s a good chance Bulman printed it.)
In 1997, an adjacent, 34-storey tower preserved much of the heritage structure. It’s proved to be one of the city’s more successful historical salutes.
That angled entrance retains much of the original character. And imparts real presence to the refurbished multi-tiered space now Tutto. The name translates to ‘everything,’ which conveys license to celebrate all things tasty and Italian.
Walk in to a warm welcome, and a half flight of stairs flanked by wine cabinets. They’re just a small part of Tutto’s extensive cellar.
The most recent makeover was sweeping and dramatic. Defined by curves, cove ceilings and frescoes, the expansive space focuses on Tutto’s open kitchen. The Smithe Street-side, exposed red brick wall runs the length of the main room. While playing to the building’s history it also amplifies the menu’s polished rustic authenticity.
Tutto: Pan Italian pampering
Several dishes stood out from our tasting, a multi regional showcase for Tutto Chef Omar Hadi’s offerings. Topping the list, porcini brown butter further bumps up an already flavourful beef short-rib ravioli.
Tender Humboldt squid ‘Calamaro’ tangles with pea shoots and mild puttansca sauce. For sure, lobster cannelloni with tangy lemon mascarpone and velvet lobster bisque sauce also merits mention.
The somewhat intimidating, family-style 50 oz. ‘Tomahawk’ steak is both tender and flavourful. It’s also dog-friendly: bones may be packaged to-go for canine pampering. It’s cooked ‘sous-vide,’ allowing the kitchen to prepare several ahead of time. That’s a necessity for what’s turned out to be a pretty popular item. While intended for sharing, at least one regular carnivore orders it just for himself!
“When we first conceived of Tutto we wanted to convey a few primary ideas,” according to GM Andrea Vescovi.
“We wanted guests to have fun. We wanted the feel of a Sunday dinner in an Italian house—or my house. Multiple plates abound with, of course, a few bottles of wine to share with family or friends,” he adds.
Tutto aimed also “to bring back a few dishes that seem to have disappeared from Italian restaurants in Vancouver.” These would include the veal Piccata, Cannelloni and Tomahawk alla Fiorentina. “Affordability has always been a focus,” says Vescovi. “We wanted to stay away from the luxury dining scene, and try to keep prices honest both on our menu and wine list.”
“Tutto meaning ‘everything,’ features many regions of Italy, from Veneto in the North to Sicily in the south,” he says.
“This stays true to food and wine, whether a pairing from Veneto, like Beef Carpaccio with Pinot Grigio, or Sicilian Orecchiette alla Norma with a Frapatto.”
(Recently on Face Book Vescovi said his work is now done. And he’s moving on.)
The wine program is impressive. No surprise, about three quarters comes from across Italy. But good choices abound also from BC, France and California.
On this night the all Italian pairings were superb, and often novel. Hard to find Casale de Giglio Aphrodisium (Lazio) is a blend of of Petit Manseng with Viognier, Greco, and Fiano. Vibrant and intense, the 2015 proved a stellar match for Panna Cotta. Stone-fruit, citrus and mineral played perfectly off lemon and berry notes and candied pistachio.
It may have taken me a while to navigate to the challenges of COVID to get there. But Tutto was more than worth the wait.
****
Tutto Restaurant & Bar
901 Homer Street,
Vancouver,
(604) 633-8868
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