Sparkling wine sales are booming across the globe. ‘Bubbles’ of every style are beyond popular, buoyed in great part by unprecedented demand during the pandemic—and led by Prosecco in particular.
However, not all Prosecco is created equal, by any means.
While Prosecco DOC comes from the expansive, lower plateaus of the Veneto and Friuli, Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG is grown only in a small hilly region nestled into the Dolomite foothills not far from Venice.
Here, Prosecco Superiore DOCG is produced, in the verdant surroundings of Conegliano Valdobbiadene, where Prosecco has been made from centuries. And still more elevated, within that classification, are the DOCG “Rive” wines that hail from the steepest slopes within a single commune—of which there are just 43.
Conegliano Valdobbiadene: Breathtakingly Beautiful
When you visit Conegliano Valdobbiadene it’s impossible not to be smitten by its extraordinary beauty, as well as by the unwavering dedication of the people who’ve farmed and nurtured this land for centuries—if not millennia.
While the bulk of Prosecco comes from the plateaus below, the contrasting, much smaller Prosecco Superiore DOCG is made up entirely of uniquely contoured, steep hillsides. The ranges run east to west, with most of the vineyards facing south, which, along with the higher elevation, contributes to wider ranging diurnals and more acidity.
Such extreme slopes—often over 45 degrees and sometimes as much as 70 degrees—make it impossible for machinery to access. That accounts for the 600 to 700 hours per hectare of manual work needed to cultivate the vines. This compares to the 150 to 200 hours needed on the flatlands below where ‘regular’ Prosecco DOC is produced—in ten times the volume. Hence, most of the vineyard work throughout the year is necessarily performed by hand, with skills handed down through generations.
No wonder the work required to grow Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG is often referred to as ‘Heroic Viticulture.’ It certainly is!
UNESCO: Worldwide Recognition
Following an application process that took ten years, in 2019 the extraordinary features and character of the Prosecco Hills of Conegliano Valdobbiadene were recognized by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site.
Unquestionably, the award was driven by this corner of the Veneto’s unique elements of centuries of cultivation and agricultural landscaping. However, it also hailed the contribution of the people of Veneto and their artisanal role in handcrafted viticulture over almost three centuries—and much longer.
The Power of Knowledge
Italy’s first wine school was established (by royal decree) in the town of Conegliano in 1876. Since then the role played by the School of Oenology in the development of Prosecco Superiore DOCG has been significant. Some 6,000 students have graduated, with many moving on to leadership roles in the wider wine world. The current university curriculum spans studies in agriculture, the science and technology of vines, incorporating experimental viticulture and more.
The school’s contemporary thinking embraces the notion of an interdependent ecosystem, managing its own winery, distillery, farm, vineyards, orchards and greenhouse. A nod to its distinguished heritage is a fresco adorned enoteca, which built as a model intended for use throughout Italy.
Also part of the school, the Manzoni Museum pays tribute to one of its pioneering players. Former headmaster Luigi Manzoni embarked on important programs that focused on vine genetics, helping to develop blends that helped build the foundation for today’s Prosecco Superiore DOCG.
Cutting Edge Sustainability
Conegliano Valdobbiadene DOCG has also been following an ambitious sustainability program. Initially developed in 2011, its goal is to eliminate environmentally unfriendly practices and chemicals in favour of non-invasive agricultural methods. A major milestone, in 2019 Prosecco Superiore D.O.C.G. finalized a comprehensive ban on the use of Glyphosate herbicide.
The chemical is also a prime ingredient of the North American weed-killer known as ‘Round Up,’ now proven to be devastating to crucial pollinators and other important insects and increasingly regarded as a likely cause of Cancer.
In successfully applying the ban the DOCG becomes the largest wine producing area in Europe to forbid the use of Glyphosate. In addition, a rapidly growing number of the DOCG’s 181 grape producers have successfully certified under the National Quality System for Integrated Production. S.Q.N.P.I. follows a broad mantra aimed at reducing the use of synthetic chemicals and fertilizers throughout the production of Prosecco Superiore.
Prosecco Superiore: A Range of Delightful Styles
The majority of Prosecco Superiore DOCG are Spumante wines which span the sweetness spectrum from Extra Brut (0-6 g/l), Brut (0-12 g/l), Extra Dry (12-17 g/l) and Dry (17 to 32 g/l).
In local terms we might see these as ranging from ‘Brut’ to ‘medium’ and ‘off-dry.’ 2019 saw the approval of yet another style, a salute to the beginnings of Prosecco Superiore. Sui Lieviti ( meaning ‘On the Lees) is a sparkling wine that’s been allowed to referment in the bottle. It’s a process that harks back to the very origins of the wine that formed the foundation of today’s DOCG—and well worth tasting if you ever get the chance.
In summary …
Prosecco Superiore DOCG is known worldwide for its distinctive style and complexity. That DOCG seal on the bottle denotes the highest quality and most stringent of production standards, resulting in wines that are eminently more flavourful and balanced than their lowland cousins.
Indeed, you could say Prosecco Superiore DOCG, truly, is ‘above and beyond’ Prosecco.
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