Verre: French Fare with Flair in Coal Harbour

At Verre the glass is more than half full.

Liam Breen is chef-owner of Verre, a refreshing newcomer at the north foot of Denman. Right on the seawall, near the Bayshore, this space had became a bit of a revolving door. But that should change with the latest incarnation. The design team behind Verre has instilled a fresh new look. The room’s lines are cleaner, to emphasize the daytime view. The smart bar lures locals for afternoon and late evening Happy Hour. And the chef is truly motivated.

Verre may well be the best thing to happen here since long ago Crime Lab used to pack ’em in.

Breen, (originally from Montreal) has returned to Vancouver after seven years in Dubai. There he earned quite a few culinary stripes. Hot spots he helped drive included: La Cave French Bistro, Marco Pierre White Grill, and Maine Oyster Bar & Grill.

Known for his no nonsense approach, one local critic dubbed him ‘the Canadian rebel.’ Somewhere, too, there was a stage in Spain with Ferran Adrià’s el Bulli. (Never a bad thing.) Plus side-trips to London, Santorini, Beirut, Ankara and elsewhere. Because, well, that’s what young chefs who are truly driven do.

Verre: fresh, smart and tasty

Verre scallops crudo

A few bites in to tasting Verre’s appetizers, Breen had me convinced. His passion and creativity are readily apparent on the plate. A variety of smaller plates (he uses the classic term ‘entrée’) represent good value. Scallops crudo shine  with a vibrant sauce vierge, plus courgettes and basil puree.  Crunchy breadcrumbs yield contrast ($17).  This dish was well-matched with lean and mineral toned Tantalus Riesling (from magnum.)

Verre pork saddle

Nicely cooked, moist and flavourful, pork saddle comes with with pear and celeriac purée., topped with kale crisps.

Verre squid

Surprisingly tender, seared Humboldt squid is bathed in puttanesca, with roasted garlic and chervil ($16). We ask chef how he manages to obtain such tenderness and he smiles, confiding something about ‘acupuncture…’

Strong mains and a sweet finish

Verre Branzino

Branzino (sea bass) comes roasted whole, filleted but with the tail still on. It makes for a pretty, interesting presentation. its white flesh is mild, garnished with a zippy salsa verde and cherry tomatoes.  Pickled garlic perks it up even further. ($39). Another good match with the Tantalus.

Verre cassoulet

Duck confit cassoulet is another hit, served in its own skillet. The beans were nicely textured. And the Paris sausage (from Fraser Valley’s Gelderman) flavourful without being too salty. ($33)

Decently portioned side dishes (for sharing) include charred rapini, spiced up with a little chilli, ($12). Brussel sprouts are perked up with lardons and parmesan ($14). Tantalus Pinot Noir proved a good partner to these plates and to the cassoulet.

To finish: a seductively smooth and mildly addictive salted caramel and chocolate creme brulé, with rosemary sprigs.

Overall, our dinner yielded a string of excellent flavours, a series of classics and more, re-interpreted and nicely executed. Liam Breen describes Verre’s style as ‘French-Mediterranean’—which gives license to an unapologetic romp of robust flavours. What appeals? His plates are well thought out—but far from fussy. Mix in a lively vibe and smartly picked wines (plus a patio, come warm weather) and the recipe is there for a winner.

In fact, my hunch is that locals have already discovered Verre. Happy Hour (4-6 pm and after 10 pm) is already popular. And Dine Out bookings (5 courses for $45) are going fast.

Verre, 550 Denman Street, at the north foot of Denman, on the seawall

Vancouver, B.C.,  (604) 428-4843

www.verreyvr.com

Hours:
Happy Hour: 5pm – 6pm & 10pm until late, Tuesday to Sunday
Dinner: 5pm – Midnight, Tuesday to Sunday

Closed Monday

Instagram: @verreyvr
Facebook: /verreyvr
Twitter: @verreyvr

The Hired Belly was hosted by Verre Restaurant.