Burgoo is comfort food central.
Yesterday a few of us dropped by Burgoo on Burrard for lunch. It turned out to be the perfect choice for a warming bowl of French onion soup and a good salad. The soup was wickedly good, topped with lashings of broiled cheese and packed with croutons in a tasty broth. Salads (Kale Caesar and ‘Bistro’ with red onion and quinoa) were also worthwhile. Total cost for this substantial bite? $19 and change, before tip. Everyone else also enjoyed their choices. ‘Kentucky Burgoo’ and the Shepherd’s pie were likewise well received.
Even though we were at one of the newer locations, it got me thinking back to my very first visit. That was to Burgoo on West 10th, the original location, still there. (There are now six across greater Vancouver)
I went digging on Wayback Machine and found my original Vancouver Courier Burgoo review, from 2004. The column was filed on Jan 5, 2004. And I remember well the bone-chilling -10 Celsius mentioned. It was a far cry from Sunday’s balmy ten or so above.
While Burgoo has blossomed into five locations, its essence remains unchanged. Burgoo based its concept on the simplicity of ‘Comfort food’. Ridiculed by many at the time, that style has more than survived. In fact it’s become even more prevalent post 2008 recession. It also occurs to me that a few Dine Out menus pale in comparison to the kind of value that Burgoo offers. (Especially if you go with their salad + sandwich, or soup + sandwich option…)
So, with that in mind, I thought I’d reproduce that 15 year-old review here. (I don’t normally do that.) First of all, two thirds of the places have closed. It’s intact except for a few subheads. And it’s still pretty relevant. Although the wine list is much improved… And, yes, there may have been some other changes. But bear with me. It’s essentially the same idea.
Related: I kind of like my somewhat clairvoyant ending.
***
Burgoo stew is good for you
Burgoo
4434 West 10th Ave.
Tel: 604-221-7830
Reviewed by Tim Pawsey (Vancouver Courier 2004)
If these wintry days find you hankering for a bowl of something hot, ponder a visit to Burgoo, a stew emporium par excellence that prides itself on the city’s widest assortment of just about everything bowl-ish.
Bowls are humankind’s oldest eating vessel, which is no surprise. Added warmth comes from hunkering over a steaming serving of goulash, served in a leviathan piece of pottery-although on our most recent visit, even the normally toasty Burgoo was having its challenges with the near -10 C exterior temperature. We would have excused the fleece-wrapped wait staff for wearing mittens.
What’s in a name?
On most nights, Burgoo (named for the Kentucky specialty that once featured squirrel) hums along with the hubbub of happy diners in its rustic, but polished setting. It feels almost like your grandma’s kitchen, complete with a craggy stone hearth and even a mullion window for that occasional dark and stormy feeling.
There’s no pretense here, just a wealth of good soups, salads and stews of varying kinds, all reasonably priced-a point well appreciated by the West Side clientele.
Just about every worldly incarnation of stew or a variation imaginable, from rich Irish stew (made with slow braised lamb simmered in Guinness) to Hungarian goulash that sports a hearty, smoky paprika and pepper gravy. Then there’s everything in between, from Malaysian laksa, Moroccan tajine, Caribbean jerk chicken and Indian tikka and dahl—although vegetarian offerings aren’t exactly plentiful.
The first clue that this place knows what it’s doing comes with the bread, fresh scones, sourdough and multi-grains delivered in a perfect, small wooden bowl. It’s the perfect start to a meal based on the best of “homestyle” cuisines. Is it glorified peasant food? You bet, and it tastes great, especially when you’ve spent the day feeling like a penguin.
In a stew
The stew recipes aren’t fancy or necessarily over spiced. In fact, they tend be more subtle, leaning to the mild side and erring on the side of caution. Smaller portions (adequate for most appetites), are served in a bowl on a wooden block, while the full-sized offering comes in a serious Doulton knockoff. The goulash has small chunks of beef, with red and green peppers and brown rice with perfect texture. The Cab Sauv beef bourgignon has plenty of solid flavour, too, and the right touch of richness from the caramelized onions.
Even the glasses are chunky and heavy, but not like those poor excuses of tooth tumblers that some places pass off as wine glasses in the name of “farmhouse” dining. Although no-nonsense and substantial, they still work and at least allow for an aroma, which allowed us to pick out a corked wine right away. If only every restaurant’s servers could be this gracious: “Corked? Oh, no problem,” she said, and changed it. No questions asked.
The laksa is good, although not as rich in texture or flavour as you’ll find in most Malaysian rooms around town, such as Banana Leaf-even diminutive Caf‚ d’Lite comes to mind. The spice seemed toned town (for western tastes?), although chili sauce was close at hand to add if desired and it was a great match for Cedar Creek’s Gewurz from the good by the glass list. (these dishes might be out of date…)
If you’re in a hurry, or just can’t be bothered to cook, Burgoo also offers most of its creations to go. Simple, friendly, tasty and affordable, this upper West Side haunt is the kind of place you can call home. In fact, there should be one in every neighbourhood.
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