Ancora arrives
Recently opened (on January 8th), Ancora is already a going concern.
That should come as no surprise. ‘Mainland’ Vancouverites have already embraced chef Ricardo Valverde’s Nikkei cuisine. A marriage of Peruvian and Japanese styles, the origins of Nikkei date from the late 19th century. Around this time several thousand Japanese people came to Peru on special work contracts. Many stayed on. As a result, especially recently, the style has flourished—particularly among younger chefs.
A media dinner at the new location yielded a treasure trove of flavours. In a city of often formulaic choices, the False Creek original has carved out a niche. Not surprisingly, even more smartly executed, Ambleside’s Ancora emulates its False Creek sibling.
By contrast, here Valverde enjoys a far more functional kitchen. It’s still relatively compact, but functional. Moreover, he had a hand in the design. Overall, this sparkling, floor to ceiling glass room has tons of appeal. Not the least of which is the panorama across First Narrows to Stanley Park. Another nice touch, that bustling kitchen is visible from just about every table.
A smooth launch
Under GM Steve Edwards, the team hit the ground running. Mid week, the room was full, with a pleasant, local vibe. The mood here is less formal than at False Creek. But Valverde’s refreshing creativity and eye for detail is still front and centre.
Chef Valverde checks a plate of Carne Cruda Picada—beef tartare with quails egg
Here’s why Ancora Ambleside is another winner. The kitchen and room are already running seamlessly. Table service appears laid back and casual. But underneath is a precision well suited to the depth of these plates. In other words: it’s a hit.
The menu spans a remarkable range. Seductive raw bar offerings lead to inventive mains and wicked finales. A common theme, Chef Valverde weaves his Peruvian background with the freshest of local ingredients. The capper? Savvy wine and other beverage pairings by Edwards that run the gamut. Starting with a wickedly kicked up, spicy Wasabi Margarita.
Ancora highlights: a sampling of what’s on offer…
Ancora Dungeness crab with quail’s egg and crispy yam in huancaina sauce
I think this bite-sized morsel sums up nicely what’s happening at Ancora. A causa from Ancora’s ‘Glacier’ seafood platter, you can also order it from the crudo bar menu. It’s a glorious combo of Dungeness crab meat with huancaina sauce, olive ‘soil’, crispy yam and quail’s egg. Like most of these dishes, it’s also visually quite brilliant.
Fun ‘n flexible ‘Fitz’
A splash of toasty, apple and citrus toned Fitz Sparkling Brut is an excellent match.
Ancora Albacore tuna ceviche
Ancora draws firmly on its Nikkei inspiration for this different take on ceviche. It combines Albacore tuna with crunchy corn, sesame leche de tigre, ginger, yam slice and spring onion. Another toothsome combo, perked up with a taste of Vinho Verde.
Smart pairings…
Ancora Aji Panca Glazed Sablefish
All of these dishes were well paired with various sips. The chef glazes sablefish with Aji Panca (mild red pepper). Alongside smoked potato puree, kale gomae and a quinoa cracker, it’s a show-stopper. Even better, it was smartly paired with chilled Yamagata Masamune Junmai sake. Its slightly nutty flavour and smooth texture yielded an added element of umami.
Another Peruvian classic: duck with corn
Wines are well chosen and often less common. A variation on classic arroz con pato, rice and duck played nicely with Thomas Bachelder’s silky Oregon Pinot Noir.
Next up: prime ribeye anticucho and black garlic jus, dove-tailed well with Bodega Garzón Uruguay Tannat.
Ancora spiced picarone and candied pecans with lucuma ice cream
Even the palate cleansers play along with the Peruvian theme. Consider a vibrant Chica Morda sorbet. It was a prelude to spiced picarones and lucuma ice cream—matched with Urlar Late Harvest ‘Noble’ Riesling.
Choreographed cuisine
Ancora’s service reminds me a little of C Restaurant (formerly in Ancora’s False Creek space). C Owner Harry Kambolis actually hired Ballet BC to choreograph his servers. A few folks rolled their eyes. However, it turned out to be a savvy move and added another dimension. Similarly, Ancora diners receive often more complicated dishes all at the same time. It’s a nice touch.
In summary, it looks as if Ancora is a perfect fit for Ambleside. It’s a good contrast to more mainstream Earls. But still just the kind of place where you’d want to hang out. Especially come summer, when, I’m sure, that patio will be hopping. And the Pisco flowing … ;-)
ANCORA AMBLESIDE
1351 Bellevue Avenue, West Vancouver BC
604.926.0287
(Winter hours) Dinner — 5pm to close, Tuesday to Saturday
Good article, Tim. I enjoyed reading it.
Thanks,Sam!