As noted, BC ‘bubble’ is definitely on a roll. A number of wineries have tightened their focus on traditional method sparkling. Overall, the results continue to impress. Recently I was invited to taste the newest sparkling wines from Township 7. And I jumped at the chance…Township 7’s sparkling small lot cuvées have been making waves for a while. So much so that the winery has now allotted them their own ‘Seven Stars’ brand.
“We’re all in on bubble,” says Township 7 GM Mike Raffin, still savouring the positively cosmic award picked up in London a couple of years ago. Seven Stars Polaris 2016 won Best Canadian Sparkling Wine at the prestigious 2019 Champagne & Sparkling Wine World Championships. “I even had to buy a tux for the (Merchant Taylor’s) dinner,” he quips.
“However, a lot of people don’t realize that Township 7 has been making sparkling wine ever since our first vintage, in 1999,” Raffin reminds us. The now Naramata-based winery was named for its original Langley location. There it still maintains a tasting room and the 5 acre vineyard. They acquired the Naramata property and opened that winery in 2004. However, Raffin says, “We’ve always looked at Langley in particular as a place to do something special” (with sparkling).
A New Winemaker Brings New Focus
Sparking wine has received increasing attention since Mary McDermott arrived in 2014 as winemaker. She brought extensive experience in making sparkling for a trio of leading Ontario producers. Hence, the time seemed right to embark on the dedicated Seven Stars sparkling project. Coincidentally, it’s taken seven years to come to its full fruition across the range.
McDermott agrees she’s still “pretty excited about it”. Especially as the wines span a range of different styles—including a few non-traditional varieties.
“The focus is very much on single vineyard and estate wines. Plus we’ve been planting specific varieties with sparkling in mind.” Such as? “Pinot Meunier, and different Pinot Noir clones,” she says.
Township 7 has been busy replanting in both locations but especially with a view to improving the quality in Langley.
“It’s challenging but also great. In Langley the grapes ripen more evenly than in the Okanagan Valley,” explains McDermott. “We consistently get 17 to 19 brix and 2.9 to 3 ph. It’s really a special place for sparkling. In a way it’s similar to what I was used to in Ontario: often wet but the acidity is what counts.”
Where to find them?
Most of these wines are available only at the tasting rooms and through Township 7’s wine club. Currently on offer to Seven Stars Club members, a six-pack for $266.82 plus taxes, with complimentary shipping. Or, members may pick them up in either Langley or on the bench and save 15%.
What’s in the bottle
Township 7 Seven Stars Sirius 2015 (BC VQA Fraser Valley)
The newest addition to the range is the winery’s premium sparkler. It’s an unabashed nod to that other place that makes pretty good sparkling wine, in France. ;-) Named for the brightest star in the night sky, Sirius is a classic blend of co-fermented Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. En tirage for five years.
This polished sparkler sports aromas of brioche and orchard fruits, with a firm mousse. Opening to apple and citrus on the palate with textured, creamy mouthfeel and measured acidity. It’s drinking beautifully now but will be great to revisit in, say, another five years. A worthy flagship wine, Raffin says“It was fun to make. Wine club members helped pick the current vintage and shared lunch with the winery team. As a bonus, they got to taste it first—and then see what all the excitement is about.” $79.97 94 pts.
Township 7 Seven Stars Polaris 2018 (BC VQA Okanagan Valley)
Blanc de Blanc from Hidden Terrace (North of Oliver) and Naramata Bench estate. Floral, orchard fruit and brioche notes, with persistent bubbles and firm mousse. Expressive, bright fruit on the palate with baked apple, lemon-lime and mineral notes. Buoyed by excellent texture and mouthfeel, Polaris sets the tone for the house style, says Raffin. McDermott says “mousse management is key.” Minimal fining, she explains, contributes to more proteins for the secondary ferment. That contributes to the added texture. $35.97 92 pts.
Township 7 Seven Stars Equinox 2017 (BC VQA Okanagan Valley)
This 100% Pinot Noir Brut was sourced from Sperling Vineyards in south east Kelowna. Aged on the lees for 30 months. Pretty pale salmon in the glass with wild red berry aromas, fine bubbles and lively mousse. On the palate, strawberry, apple and rhubarb with plenty of Pinot character shining through. 93 pts.
Township 7 Seven Stars Rigel 2019 (BC VQA Okanagan Valley)
Inaugural vintage, made in traditional method from 100 percent Riesling. The grapes came from north Oliver’s celebrated Fool’s Gold vineyard, planted by Dick Cleave back in the late 90s. This wine yields a stream of lively bubbles, with up front citrus, apple and stonefruit. The subtly sweet, bright palate brims with acidity above flint and mineral notes through a refreshing quite dry finish. $32.97 92 pts.
[…] well across the board. (Full disclosure: I helped judge.) Of note in particular is the showing by Seven Stars (Township 7’s dedicated sparkling brand), whose ascendance continues. I’ve been a longtime fan, […]