Last week I Zoomed into a catch-up with the team at Time Winery. The idea was to celebrate not only International Women’s Day but also Time’s revitalization since its sale after Harry McWatters’ passing. Between tastes of winemaker Lynzee Schatz’s increasingly impressive portfolio were revealed snippets of what’s to come in 2021, from a new brand to tasting room and dining upgrades, and more.
General Manager Christa-Lee McWatters points to the changes as the ‘modernisation of Time Winery’—now known formally as “The Time Family of Wines.”
Going over my notes, I’m yet again reminded of just how much Harry McWatters contributed to the BC wine industry. At every turn, it seems, another ‘Harry-ism’ or story pops out. No surprise, I’m delighted to see Time Winery flourishing under its new ownership, especially with the McWatters sisters at the helm.
Time Change—with a Firm Nod to the Past
Changes to the portfolio include moving Time White Meritage into the McWatters Collection, which will also eventually add a vintage traditional method brut. These are changes of note, as they pay tribute to and reinforce the founder’s vision.
In 1988 Harry McWatters released Sumac Ridge Steller’s Jay Cuvée, the first traditional method sparkling wine in Canada. This was the wine that very much paved the way for today’s widespread popularity of BC Bubble.
Harry McWatters at Sumac Ridge, Tim Pawsey photo
It was also Harry who worked early on to allow Canadian membership in the American-founded Meritage Association (now the Meritage Alliance). His efforts eventually won approval for use of the term Meritage in Canada as well as on VQA labels. This was an achievement whose significance was not fully understood by a lot of people at the time—including me. (Harry never missed a chances to remind me of that!)
The ability to use ‘Meritage’ was of consequence because it aligned the Okanagan (and Niagara) alongside the likes of Napa and Sonoma. A small group of vintners from these regions had formed the association—for American wineries. They sought a means to lend credibility to the notion of an American Bordeaux styled blend, at the time not allowed under US BATF regulations.
In the early 1990s McWatters embarked on the largest planting of Bordeaux varieties in Canada. Despite the fact that many believed the opposite to be true, he was adamant that BC could make a red blend that would, in time, compete with Napa—and Bordeaux.
What’s New
The women of Time: (r-l) Kerri-Anne Sexton – Retail and Guest Services Manager; Christa-Lee McWatters – General Manager; Lynzee Schatz – Winemaker; Becky Marte – Controller; Alla Gray – Accountant; Darrien McWatters – Operations Manager; Kimberly Hundertmark – Hospitality Manager; Angelle Sigston – Hospitality Supervisor; Chelsea Dumayne – Event Sales and Marketing Co-ordinator; Brittney Vieira – Hospitality Supervisor. (Chris Stenberg photo)
Situated as it is, in the heart of downtown Penticton, Time offers a different experience to typical wine touring in the valley. The first true ‘urban’ winery outside of Kelowna, it’s housed in a beautifully refurbished former movie theatre, on which McWatters spared no expense. His vision lives on. Coming soon are upstairs private tasting and dining rooms (to seat groups of eight and 14) for post-Covid entertaining. The hospitality team has been further expanded with the arrival of chef Matt Martin (formerly at Liquidity) and sommelier Rob Hundtermark. Next year will see even more changes, with tasting room reno’s and construction of a much anticipated roof deck.
Tasting highlights
Time White Meritage 2018 (Okanagan Valley VQA)
This Meritage has a pretty good heritage. ;-) It’s a descendant of one of those landmark wines that helped define the BC industry. When everyone was jumping up and down trying to make California Chard. McWatters went in the other direction and opted for Sem-Sauv—i.e. White Meritage. It turned out pretty well, particularly as this style of wine is a shoo-in for West Coast seafood. (Curiously, when Vincor bought Sumac Ridge they dropped it. But McWatters later brought it back when he opened Time.) Over the years the oak has taken more of a back seat to the fruit, which is the real message.
Grapes from OK Falls and Black Sage bench, 40 percent barrel fermented in French oak, with the majority in stainless steel. Forward orchard and stone fruit with oak hints and tropical notes followed by pear, gooseberry and a touch of mineral on the palate. By all reports, great with goat cheese; plus, I would try with scallops and cream sauce. 90 pts. $25
Time Viognier 2018 (Okanagan Valley VQA)
Sourced from Naramata and Osoyoos. Tropical and citrus fruits on the nose precede a creamy, well balanced palate. Supported by generous but still elegant mouthfeel. Mango and apricot notes plus a hint of lemon meringue with spicy notes through the lengthy close. A relatively hefty wine thanks to partial barrel fermentation (20%) with five months on the lees. A ‘must taste’ that will appeal also to big Chard lovers! 91 pts. $22.99
Time Cabernet Franc 2018 (Okanagan Valley VQA)
Sourced from Osoyoos and Kaleden. Excellent varietal expression. Forward red and black berry notes leading to a plush n’ plummy, medium to full bodied palate, damson and spice notes. Approachable, easy tannins and gently peppery through the close. A good example of why Cabernet Franc continues to catch on like crazy in BC. 92 pts. $34.99
Time Syrah 2018 (Okanagan Valley VQA)
Sourced from Osoyoos. The weight of this wine sets it apart, more towards medium than full bodied and not as overly extracted as some can be. Pretty garnet in the glass. Up front darker berry notes with meaty, gamey aromas. The palate expresses appealing, bright acidity, with dark cherry, cassis and savoury notes underpinned by well integrated tannins. My hunch is the screw cap closure really helps the freshness. Bring it on! 92 pts. $39.99
Time Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 (Okanagan Valley VQA)
Fruit from Haynes Point (Osoyoos) and Gold Hill (Oliver). Aged in French oak barriques for 18 months. Aromas of classic bell pepper notes with inviting red and black fruit plus some oak notes. Mulberry and blackberry with vanilla, firm tannins on the palate right through to the close. This wine definitely needs more ‘time’. However, I tasted it over three or four days and it developed nicely—worth putting down for a few years. 90 pts. $39.99
[…] Seasoned winemaker Graham Pierce is headed to the Naramata Bench. Pierce has joined Ruby Blues as full time Head Winemaker. Pierce, who is best known for making ten vintages of Black Hills’ flagship Nota Bene, takes over winemaking operations at Ruby Blues, effective immediately. Most recently Pierce was director of winemaking at Kitsch and prior to that at Time Winery. […]