My good friend Dana Lee Harris recently posted her 2003 photo (above) of Robert and Margrit Mondavi with me and Heather (my wife), who had just sung Happy Birthday to Robert. At the time Dana Lee was Western Canadian Manager for Robert Mondavi Corporation. Dana and Richard Carras—who was then the Director for Robert Mondavi Corporation in Canada, China and the Caribbean—arranged for us to have lunch with the Mondavis beforehand.
I thought it would be fun to post here my Vancouver Courier column from that week—as some of it seems still relevant. As for many others, meeting the Mondavis was a career highlight. I was lucky to spend time with them also at the winery on a couple of occasions.
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(Vancouver Courier, August 4th 2003)
Mondavi Extols Virtue of Red Wine
Two lunch invites that you don’t turn down: One might be the Queen. The other? Robert Mondavi and his wife Margrit.
Mondavi, who just turned 90, breezed through Vancouver with vim and vigour that would be the envy of many a septuagenarian. And over a superb lunch at Diva he revealed the secrets of his longevity. Well, not quite. But I do know he that he swims daily (and has a massage too). Plus, I suspect that his life-long love affair with red wine doesn’t hurt either.
In fact, he prefers wine to water.
“Water? I love it and need it,” says the founder and chairman emeritus, “But I don’t like water on its own (or milk for that matter). I like wine, especially red wine, and when I’m thirsty I like to drink red wine with ice cubes and water.”
Even though times have changed since he first went knocking on New York’s doors, says the world’s most well known wine ambassador, “Wine writers are still inclined to boost the great Bordeaux and Burgundies. But we have more wines here that consistently meet levels of high quality because of the California climate.”
One thing that hasn’t changed is government attitudes towards alcohol.
“The problem is that wine education hasn’t gone forward. The top wineries of California have overlooked the potential of a unified program,” he says. “We lack the organization to advance the message that wine in moderation can be good for you. We need to get the approval of the federal government to be able to actually say, ‘Wine is good for you.’ The trouble is that Americans have been brought up with a puritanical attitude and industry doesn’t have faith in each other.”
In the end, though, he is—as always—optimistic.
“By necessity not by intelligence, one of these days, we will get it together and do it. We have to win over our federal and estate governments.”
Vision and passion endure
The most striking thing about this man who almost single handedly initiated the modern wine revolution is his blend of gentle candour and still visionary passion wrapped in unswerving belief. Recently, Robert Mondavi wines came in for criticism from noted commentator Robert Parker, who referred to the 1998 and 1999 wines as ‘uninspiring.’ The ‘Parker palate’ tends toward a fuller bodied, higher alcohol style that has been embraced by many a Californian winery, though not by Mondavi.
“It’s important to understand balance,” says Robert Mondavi. “Many wines are stylistically well made but other wines are more harmonious. Parker likes a certain style. He’s very clever and has done our industry a lot of good. I respect him but don’t buy that people should go only with his style of wines. It’s not up to critics to tell us how to make wines.”
“ The greatest wine lovers that really know wine like wines that are more gently made, more friendly and more harmonious. Each sells within its merits. Our wines are equal to the finest in the world and writers will begin to recognize that.”
Meanwhile, our lunch is progressing: smoked black cod with beet and rhubarb compote is well matched with the superb, deep plum and raspberry layered 1999 Pinot Noir Reserve (which Parker incidentally scores an impressive 92); while the firm tarriness and cassis of the rust tinged 1995 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon is a ringer for the rich jus of chef Scott Baechler’s braised lamb and root vegetables. The Man is suitably impressed, even if these days he tends to enjoy simpler fare. However, regardless of what’s on the plate, he says “without wine, a meal is not a meal.”
At 90 years of age, the spirit that 40 years ago drove Robert Mondavi to build Napa’s first major winery since prohibition—and effectively start the drive that put California on the world wine stage—is still readily apparent. He may be hard of hearing but he doesn’t miss a trick—let alone a chance to buss our attractive hostess as we leave.
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