There’s nothing quite like pulling on a cherished old T-shirt. Not to mention still being able to fit into it 😎 . This one (above) is in the spotlight in celebration of #BCWineMonth. What’s more, I have to confess it brings back a lot of good memories. Now it’s more than just a few vintages old. Never mind. It has that very comfy, gently used feel. It’s still in good shape. Made in the USA, not China. But most of all it makes me crave a return to wine touring, especially these days! This T-shirt recalls one of the earlier tours organized by the neophyte BC Wine Institute (now Wine Growers of BC).
Back in 1994 BCWI used to have to twist some Vancouver sommeliers’ arms to make the bus trip ‘down to the Okanagan’. In those days there were just 32 licensed wineries, compared to today’s 280. Most of the activity was still centred in and around Kelowna and Oliver. The total area under vine was a mere 1765 acres. That compares to around 10,500 acres now, comprising some 929 vineyards.
As it turned out, 1994 was pivotal. That was the year Mission Hill won the Avery’s Trophy for best Chardonnay in the world. The event was London’s prestigious International Wine & Spirits Competition. And the wine was John Simes’ 1992 Grand Reserve Barrel Select Chardonnay. (Not only that, he made it when he was barely off the plane, having just arrived from New Zealand.) The Canadian wine surprised everyone—not least the panel of international judges. They even asked to re-taste it, just to be sure.
That medal did more for BC wine than any other award since. For the first time, it put the Okanagan on the world wine map. The attention spurred on extensive plantings in the south valley—especially along Black Sage Road. Over the next decade it would continue to reshape and solidify the industry.
April is BC Wine Month
This marks the fourth year that Victoria has declared April as BC Wine Month. The province-wide celebration encourages everyone to rediscover the fruits of their home industry.
This year’s central theme, “A Year in the Life” salutes the people who make up BC’s wine community of some 12,000.
“By once again proclaiming April as BC Wine Month, we want to celebrate and acknowledge all the individuals that contribute to BC’s famous wine industry, from grape growers and winemakers to retailers and tourism operators,” says Honourable Lana Popham, Minister of Agriculture, Food & Fisheries.
If you’re pondering your closer to home, post isolation, summer vacation, no time like the present to download the Wines of BC Explorer App to help make those (hopefully) post pandemic plans.
More on BC Wine Month shortly.
Meanwhile, here’s a few top scoring wines to help celebrate…
Haywire Secrest Mountain Chardonnay 2018
Forward notes of fresh orchard fruits before a well textured, creamy palate defined by hints of tropical and citrus, wrapped in juicy acidity. The grapes for this wine were whole-bunch pressed into concrete egg fermenters and left on the lees for 10 months. This is a superb example of what can be achieved without using oak and allowing the fruit to speak for itself, which has become Haywire / Okanagan Crush Pad’s hallmark. Surprisingly good with mildly spiced curry. 92 pts. $29.90
Clos du Soleil Signature 2017
It’s all about time and place—especially place. Here’s a wine that—truly—has ‘Similkameen’ written all over it. @closdusoleilwinery Signature 2017 (Similkameen Valley VQA) is a flagship blend which comes from that stunning south facing bench that dominates the western end of the valley. The grapes for this wine come from a vineyard nestled almost right up against that rugged, sun soaked rockface.
It all adds up to a natural heat sink which more than helps shape what you’ll taste in this bottle—a superbly balanced blend of mainly Cab Sauv (38%), Merlot (29%) and Cab Franc (21%) with Malbec (9%) and a splash of Petit Verdot (3%). Biodynamic viticulture, hand-harvested and aged 15 months in used French oak, minimal intervention.
Look for forward notes of vibrant red and black fruit with floral and stony hints before the main event: complex layers of herbs, pepper spice, cassis, black cherry, plum and mulberry, underpinned by silky tannins—and that unmistakable, definitive Similkameen minerality through the finish. Drinking well now but eminently age-worthy. $47.90 94 pts
BC Syrah just keeps getting better and better. Here’s a prime example. This Syrah (with a 1.2% splash of Viognier) is already drinking beautifully. Made with single vineyard fruit from Osoyoos West Bench…black fruit aromas and spicy hints before a plush and plummy, layered and textured palate of mulberry and damson; appealing peppery hints and savoury elements underneath, with excellent structure, integrated tannins and balanced acidity through the lingering finish. $38. 93 pts. Also not to be overlooked, White Label ’18, more Northern Rhone style (with 9% Viognier), more floral and red berry notes on the nose with cranberry, spice and pepper notes wrapped in approachable tannins on the generous, lengthy palate. $27. 91 pts. Also from Osoyoos. Some impressive tastes from winemaker Keira LeFranc’s first solo vintage!
Lake Breeze Pinot Gris 2018
The fruit for the Pinot Gris 2018 came from four vineyards along Naramata Bench. Each one brings something a little bit different, with some on the west side and some on the east side of the road, says winemaker Garron Elmes. “At the end of the day, when you put everything together, for me this is a wonderful expression of what Gris does in Naramata,” he says. And we agree!
“We try not to mess with things too much, ultimately, we try and grow the best fruit that we possibly can…and put it straight into the bottle—manipulating things as little as possible,” he adds.
This Gris sports up-front orchard fruits and floral notes with peach and pear on a quite textured palate, as well a little earthy, mineral hint and a touch of spice. All of which adds character and makes it a pleasing counterpoint to some more generic styles that tend to define BC Pinot Gris. ;-) 90 pts. $22
O’Rourke’s Peak Cellars Grüner Veltliner 2019
This wonderful, tropical and citrus-toned drop was the highlight of a recent tasting—which also offered a convincing catch-up on under construction O’Rourke Family Estates. It promises to be a destination and veritable tour de force in the heart of Lake Country. This Grüner is characteristically Okanagan— underpinned by juicy, natural acidity, quite textured and very fruit-driven. From the Okanagan Valley’s largest Grüner planting, it offers a convincing argument that this variety definitely has a place in the Okanagan. Packed with honey, savoury and mineral notes, extra weight comes from judicious use of neutral oak. It also sports a touch of that classic white pepper found in serious Grüner Veltliner. There’s no reason why, in time, Okanagan Grüner shouldn’t be able to win the similar kind of respect now enjoyed by, say, Riesling. Great value at $21.01 91pts.
Township 7 Riesling Fool’s Gold 2018
This wickedly good Riesling comes from Fool’s Gold Vineyard (near Oliver in the Sooth Okanagan). Planted in the 1990s by grape guru Richard Cleave, it’s now owned by his son in law, Mark Antonello. The name refers to the sparkly iron pyrite in the soil that often duped early prospectors (although it can contain traces of gold). Yet one more indication as why BC Riesling is really on a roll. These vines are clones that hail from Mosel’s celebrated Weis family. And in the hands of winemaker Mary McDermott this fruit absolutely shines. Developing petrol hints with citrus and honey notes precede a complex lemon lime, bright acidity and decidedly mineral under-toned palate with length and complexity leading through zest notes through the dry finish. 92 pts. $26.97
Frind Estate NV Brut
There’s a whole lot happening in and around Frind Estate—which was actually former BC Premier Bill Bennett’s lakeside home in West Kelowna. Frind is the ambitious project undertaken by Marcus Frind, of Plenty of Fish fame. In 2019 he initiated the Okanagan’s largest planting since Vincor’s Black Sage Bench project. He has now prepared some 900 acres near Vernon.
The smart package does justice to what’s in the bottle. No surprise considering it was made by Eric von Krosigk—a winemaker who’s been making bubbles for just about as long as anybody in the Okanagan Valley, since 1983. This a Chardonnay / Riesling blend, sports a lively stream of bubbles and a persistent mousse, with some brioche – biscuit and stone fruit aromas before a creamy, textured palate of apple, peach and citrus. Very food friendly. But also entirely enjoyable as its very own breakfast food group…😎 $24.99 (winery) 91 pts.
Blue Grouse Ortega 2019
A flashback to not that long ago, when there were so many Hedgehogs (mushrooms) we could barely keep up. Never mind, here’s a reminder that Ortega is Vancouver Island’s signature white grape. And, yes, seeing as you asked ;-) … there is a Riesling connection, as Ortega is a cross between Siegerrebe and Müller-Thurgau (and MT itself is a cross between Riesling and Madeleine Royale). Pedigree is everything, right?
Blue Grouse founder Hans Kiltz planted these vines back in the 1980s and worked hard to build the variety’s solid reputation, which new owners the Brunner family have continued to enhance and celebrate. No surprise that Blue Grouse Estate consistently produces one of the Island’s best, that can be enjoyed year round—with or without hedgehogs. In fact this Vancouver Island specialty is a slam dunk with oysters on the half shell. Or, if you’ve already had breakfast, ;-) how about grilled local breast with spring greens or cracked chilled Dungeness crab with Waldorf salad?
This wine is made with fruit mainly those old vines along with some newer vines from 2014, all farmed organically, half entirely dry-farmed, on broken down silty-loam, gravel and sand soils.
Floral and citrus notes up front followed by peach, stonefruit and creamy notes with a hint of ginger spice, nicely balanced fruit and acidity with a little extra heft from time on lees. Overall a terrific example of just how well this variety can perform. $23.99 / 92 pts. Free shipping in BC on orders of six or more BG bottles.
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Also, in honour of BC Wine Month, One dollar from every Blue Grouse or Quill wine sold—anywhere—in April will go to Nourish Cowichan. Moreover, the Brunner family will match each donation, dollar for dollar.
Nourish Cowichan was created to feed children in need in the Cowichan Valley where rates of child poverty rank as the second-highest in BC, a staggering 30%. Many of the children affected by hunger in the Valley were going to school without breakfast and the only food they would receive was through the Nourish Cowichan program.
Last year through sales and matching funds Blue Grouse donated $10,000 to Nourish Cowichan and provided 5,000 meals to families in need. They really hope to exceed that this year—and you can help!
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