Argentina has been in the spotlight this month at BC Liquor Stores, with a special promo through until early September. That means several good value Argentine wines—including not a few Malbecs ;-) —are still on offer (for even better value) until Sept 5th.
Argentine Malbec has turned out to be one of the most enduring of national ‘flagship’ wines, maybe now even having eclipsed such stalwarts as Aussie Shiraz and Kiwi Sauv. Blanc. It’s actually quite remarkable, especially when you consider that a couple of decades ago Malbec was all but unknown to most consumers.
Even in France, in recent times, dismissed as little more than a blending grape, the variety’s potential was overlooked. That is until Mendoza brought it to the world stage. (Although, it was in part French consultants who successfully uncovered Malbec’s true potential in Argentina.) In turn, Argentine producers have moved from producing proverbial lakes of budget wine to crafting some worthy offerings at every price level.
Why Malbec endures
Andes foothills from a distance
It’s not hard to figure out Malbec’s popularity with consumers. Plain and simply, it’s easy to drink, packed with luscious fruit and wrapped in approachable tannins. Moreover, that much coveted under $20 range—the sweet spot for big name marketers—offers no end of contenders.
Regulars here know that I enjoy a bit of a love-hate relationship with Malbec. For sure, I too appreciate the value that Argentine Malbec offers. Not to mention a growing number of Malbec Bordeaux based blends. But while local shelves offer a small tsunami of Malbec, all too often overlooked are decent Cabernets and Syrah also worth seeking out.
Also lost in the shuffle are some excellent everyday whites, such as Finca Los Primos Torrontes (BCLS $12.99) and Michel Torino Cuma Organic Torrontes (currently $12.49, reg. $13.99). Both of these wines are consistent, budget faves. Also on promo is Graffigna Pinot Grigio 2018 (floral and stone fruits, a pleasant sipper, 88 pts) currently BCLS $11.49 (reg. $13.99).
Traditional irrigation channel (Acequias) at Bodega Jean Rivier
It’s interesting, too, to look at Argentina in a historical context. While that country (and neighbouring Chile) are viewed primarily as ‘new world’ producers, grapes have been grown in south America since the 16th century. It was then that Spanish missionaries planted vines for sacramental wines. The newcomers also learned from and capitalized on the indigenous Huarpe people’s agricultural practices, including Acequias which channeled run-off from melting snows to irrigate the semi-arid Andes foothills.
For centuries wine-growing remained the domain of Europeans (namely French, Italian and Spanish immigrants). It really wasn’t until the late 1980s and early 1990s that the modern industry began to take shape.
MASL: High elevation viticulture
Old vines in Salta, in northern Argentina
Recently, producers in both Mendoza and in more northern and mountainous Salta have become immensely more focused on higher elevation vineyards. As part of the program, a wine’s origin frequently includes its ‘MASL‘—Metres Above Sea Level. Vines from these higher plantings tend to be on poorer soils, which means they have to work harder. Also, diurnals—the variation between day and night-time temperatures—are greater. In the end it all helps to drive acidity and produces a fresher taste profile.
High altitude Malbec plantings in Cafayate, Salta, in northwest Argentina
Malbec’s popularity continues to drive a disproportionate number of BCLS listings. No slight to the variety’s immense success, but it’s still disappointing to see the relatively small number of other Argentine varieties represented.
Here’s a clutch of wines well worth picking up for your end of summer or Labour Day weekend barbecues…
Trapiche Reserve Malbec 2018
One of those dependable workhorses that’s been around forever. It’s not that complex. But I’m always surprised at how well it shows. Black berries, more than a hint of vanilla—and unabashedly fruit-driven. Think anything braised. Good value at $14.99 (88 pts)—another reason why Malbec endures.
Graffigna Malbec 2018
Another good value offering from a long established winery (since 1870). 100 percent Malbec sourced from three higher altitude Andes foothills sites ranging from 700 to 1400 metres. Plush and plummy, raisin and other dried fruit aromas, fig, leather and spice notes, medium to full bodied with a gently, peppery finish. $14.99 89 pts.
Escorihuela Estate Grown Malbec 1884
A ‘go-to’ Malbec that’s perfect for everyday drinking, an excellent barbecue choice and one of the best value offerings around. Forward notes of black and red berries with an approachable but still structured palate of plum and vanilla. 90 pts. Reduced to $15.99 through Sept 5th. (Regular $17.99)
Finca Decero Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 (Agrelo)
This wine is a prime example of why there’s more to Argentina than Malbec. (Although, see below, they do also make excellent Malbec, of course.) In short, this storied winery never disappoints.
Hand-picked fruit from Remolinos vineyard at 3,500 ft. (1150 MASL), red berry and graphite aromas, before cassis and vanilla notes on the structured palate with well integrated tannins and measured new French oak. SPEC / PWS 93 points. $27.98
Catena High Mountain Vines Cabernet Sauvignon 2017
A blend of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Cabernet Franc, 3% Petit Verdot. Up front red berries with wild bramble, a generous and structured palate with spicy elements such as clove and pepper, good mouthfeel, textured and mineral through the finish. 91 pts. BCLS $19.99 through Sept. 5th. (Regular $23.99)
Finca Decero Malbec 2017 (Agrelo)
Another exceptional wine from one of Mendoza’s finest. The name Remolinos refers to local ‘whirlwinds’, which keep things dry and flourishing. Hand-harvested and basket pressed, with minimal handling and a judicious mix of new and used French oak. Up front red berries and floral notes before a palate of plush dark cherry with mineral hints, wrapped in juicy acidity, approachable, measured tannins and a spicy end. 93 pts. SPEC / PWS $27.98
Luis Secundo Las Acequias Malbec 2015
An excellent example of those higher elevation plantings, Valle Las Acequias Luis Segundo Malbec ‘Oak’ 2015 (Mendoza) comes from a fourth generation winery that dates from 1860. The “Acequias” are traditional irrigation ditches (see above) that foothills wineries employ to channel snowmelt to irrigate. 100% Malbec, hand-harvested from over 85 year old vines at 850 m. Aged 10 months in French oak and now five years in bottle, showing very well. Up front red berries and vanilla precede a plush palate of generous, ripe fruit with velvet tannins and excellent structure; herbaceous and complex. 93 pts. BCLS $21.99 to Sept 5th (regular $23.99).
Vina Cobos Felino Malbec 2018
American ‘Flying winemaker’ Paul Hobbs early on recognized Argentina’s potential when he co-founded this winery in 1999. Sourced from Valle de Uco and Luján de Cuyo, from vineyards between 700 and 1200 metres; aged for eight months in mainly used American oak. Vibrant black berry aromas leading to a luscious, cassis and vanilla toned palate wrapped in approachable tannins with good mouthfeel and length. $20.99 through Sept 5th. Regular $23.99, 91 pts
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