BC Bubbles on the Rise: A Sparkling Selection

“Sparkling wine is what I drink while deciding what to I’m going to drink with dinner.”— Harry McWatters.

Not surprisingly, Harry was a huge fan of BC bubble—and among the first to start making it seriously, back in the 1980s. For many years BC sparkling remained the domain of three pioneering producers—Sumac Ridge Estate Winery, Blue Mountain Vineyards and Summerhill Estate Winery. It’s fair to say that, in making Traditional Method (bottle fermented, aged and disgorged) sparkling, they’ve kept the bar high. More recently they’ve been joined by others, including Noble Ridge, Township 7, Bella, Okanagan Crushpad, Fitzpatrick and Lightning Rock.

However, the rise in popularity around the world of Prosecco, Prosecco Superiore DOCG and various Charmat (tank fermented) styles has not gone unnoticed in BC winemaking circles. In fact the overall increase in BC sparkling wine production over the last few years has been remarkable. Charmat’s primary appeal is its less costly, relatively rapid process that generates a return far quicker than labour and time intensive Traditional Method. Charmat tends to make wines lower in alcohol and acidity. But it is well suited to preserving varietal characteristics in aromatics such as Riesling and Muscat.

Over the last while I’ve tasted several BC sparklers, ranging from Traditional Method to Charmat, carbon injected and more. They cover a broad spectrum of styles that come not only from the Okanagan but also from Vancouver Island and the Fraser Valley. Producers are also more frequently turning to varieties other than Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, including Muscat—definitely on a roll.  

BC’s sparkling value

I’ve always felt that BC Traditional Method sparkling is under-appreciated. Considering the intense labour and considerable investment involved, it’s often well priced in comparison to Traditional Method sparklers from elsewhere. BC fares well when tasted beside international benchmarks. Witness the Judgment of BC.

Also worth noting, relatively few regions produce a range of wine styles to accompany an entire meal. Yet, BC does. Among the first to introduce winemaker dinners to the coast, Harry McWatters was well aware of that. He was justly proud of the fact that he could pour sparkling as a reception wine (or, say, with oysters), move through aromatics or oaked whites to lighter reds or a Bordeaux (Meritage) blend and wrap it up with an icewine.

No doubt, there’s a core of Traditional Method ‘believers’ unlikely to jump ship any time soon. And that field of ‘traditional’ producers is growing. However, there’s also no shortage of other options for those inclined to take a flier on something different.

A few years ago a lot of people were talking about which grape(s) could constitute British Columbia’s ‘flagship varieties. No surprise, it turned out there were several. Some suggested BC could and should be making a whole lot more sparkling wine. The good news is: it’s happening.

Here are the most recent top scores—along with some of those eminently quaffable alternatives.

Traditional Method

Blue Mountain Brut Gold Label (Okanagan Valley) 

The Mavety family has been at it for just about as long as anybody. And it shows. No surprise, the ‘Gold Label’ Brut NV consistently impresses. The current release is actually from 2016, a mainly Pinot Noir and Chardonnay blend (with a splash of Pinot Gris), aged 24 months sur lie, with several months more in bottle. The style is full fruited but still focused, toasty aromas and brioche notes with apple and citrus, excellent mouthfeel, a touch of mineral and a crisp, clean end. 93 pts. $28

Township 7 Seven Stars Polaris 2017 (Okanagan Valley VQA)

In the hands of winemaker Mary McDermott, Township 7 is emerging as a sparkling specialist (although the winery made its first sparkler in 1999). It’s also just launched BC’s first ‘Sparkling only’ wine club for its Seven Stars wines, at 15% off, plus free shipping, and 10% off other wines. (Last year the 2016 Polaris won Best Canadian Sparkling Wine at London’s Champagne and Sparkling Wine World Championships.) This wine invites with apple, mineral and brioche aromas, persistent mousse and lively bubbles; excellent balance and well textured with good mouthfeel, apple, pear and citrus though the finish. $35.97 92 pts.

Backyard Vineyards Reserve Blanc de Noir 2017 (Fraser Valley VQA)

This Langley traditional method sparkler offers an excellent example of what the Fraser Valley can do, especially when it comes to bubbles. This wine is reminiscent of the quality that Backyard offered with their inaugural sparkling wine a decade or so ago. Made from estate grown Pinot Noir. Toasty notes on top, apples and pears, wild strawberry, quince and mineral on the palate with a crisp, dry finish. 92 pts. $34.95

Blue Grouse Paula Traditional Method Paula 2016 (Cowichan Valley VQA).

Many have long suggested that Vancouver Island is the perfect place to make bubble. Indeed, over the years Venturi Schulze and Vignetti Zanatta have consistently proved them right. Blue Grouse’s new ownership wasted little time getting going, as the sparkling program continues to grow. A blend of estate grown Müller Thurgau (55%) and Pinot Gris (45%) made in traditional method. Lively, fine bubbles and a persistent mousse; aromas of orchard fruits and brioche hints lead to a well balanced and textured, mouth-filling palate with citrus, apple and creamy undertones supported by good acidity through a lingering finish. 91 pts. $32

50th Parallel Blanc de Noir 2017 (Okanagan Valley VQA)

From a steep, south west facing, granite laced slope overlooking Lake Okanagan, just south of Vernon. The inaugural release is in part to mark the winery’s tenth anniversary. Pretty, medium salmon in the glass, with a persistent mousse. Wild strawberry, floral and earthy notes up front with some mineral hints. Crisp but nicely textured with good mouthfeel through the finish. 93 pts. Premium priced at $85

Fitz Brut 2016 (Okanagan Valley VQA)

Fitzpatrick Family Vineyards was established as a specialized sparkling producer. Their hallmark cuvée of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir with a splash of Pinot Meunier is cellar aged on lees for 24 months. 91 Fitzpatrick Brut Fitz Brut 2015 (Okanagan Valley). Persistent mousse and fine bubbles, biscuit and nutty notes on top before gentle apple and citrus on the nicely textured palate with a hint of zest and good acidity through the finish. 91 pts. $32.99

Lightning Rock Elysia Vineyard Blanc de Noirs 2018 (Okanagan Valley)

From the Okanagan’s newest dedicated sparkling winery. Hand-picked, fermented and aged in neutral oak, tirage and hand bottled in January 2019. A stream of fine bubbles and persistent mousse, with brioche notes, red berry fruit with some tropical hints before melon and cherry chocolate hints with excellent structure and length. Truly a delicious drop! $29.99 93 pts.

Charmat & co.

Haywire Narrative XC 2018 (Okanagan Valley VQA) 

The other major entry into the BC sparkling wine stakes over the last decade is Okanagan Crush Pad, which has been busy expanding its range to include Traditional, Charmat and Ancestrale styles. This mainly Pinot Noir and Chardonnay (with some aromatic varieties) from Summerland and Oliver vineyards is made in “state-of-the-art Charmat tanks; designed to lie on their sides, exactly like traditionally made sparkling wine is aged.” Very pretty, pale rose in the glass, with a good mousse, a persistent stream of fine bubbles, textured mouthfeel, balanced acidity with ‘strawberries and cream’ notes, layered and edgy. An excellent example of just how stylish, in the right hands, Charmat can be. 91 pts. $24.90

Play Estate Moscato Frizzante (Okanagan Valley VQA)

This winery on Penticton’s southern edge is making waves with its striking location, including a bistro looking right down the lake—and wines that continue to impress. A classic, easy drinking ‘breakfast wine’ made from three varieties of Muscat. Floral and orange blossom aromas with lots of bubbles before flavours of peach and nectarine through a fresh, off-dry finish. 90 pts. $22

Church & State Frizzante Muscat 2017 (British Columbia VQA) 

A blend of fruit from Brentwood Bay (Vancouver Island) and Coyote Bowl (South Okanagan) is a reminder that this winery started out on the Island, where it still maintains an elegant tasting room, bistro and reception facility. Lively mousse, persistent bubbles, aromas of orange blossom and tropical notes, very food friendly—perfect with peach and prosciutto. 90 pts. ($20.69).

Also, a 100% Pinot Gris 2017 sparkler (all Vancouver Island fruit), fruit driven with orchard fruits and citrus hints, soft acidity, fresh and frothy. 89 pts. $25.29

Evolve Effervescence (Okanagan Valley VQA)

Established by Harry McWatters and his family, along with TIME, Evolve has changed hands since Harry’s passing last year. However, the new owners pledge to continue his vision, and the family remains very much hands on. This wine is a good example of a light and easy drinking Charmat style. With apple and stone-fruit notes, it’s light, creamy, quaffable  and eminently affordable at $19.99. 90 pts.

Mission Hill Reserve Brut 2018 (Okanagan Valley VQA) 

This Mission Hill’s first sparkling wine entry, 100% stainless steel fermented, Charmat method. Made with 89% Chardonnay and 11% Pinot Noir from Black Sage Road and Golden Mile Bench sites. Pretty and understated, leaning towards off-dry, with  orchard fruits up front and a frothy mousse, before a creamy, soft palate of citrus, apple and pear. 90 pts. $23.49

Intrigue Wines ‘I Do’ (Okanagan Valley VQA)

This is a really fun frizzante from Intrigue’s Roger Wong, just up the road from Gray Monk. The package (it makes for a nice gift) is young and fresh, just like the wine—an unusual blend of Riesling, Merlot and Gewurz. Pale to medium pink in the glass, red apple and stonefruit on the nose, followed by some nice bubbles before the surprisingly crisp and juicy red berried palate. A true crowd pleaser that works! $20 90 pts.

Bizou+Yukon Bizoo-Bubbles 2018

The latest from Haywire’s lovable pooch label is made with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, with secondary fermentation in lateral Charmat tanks. The pretty, pale medium salmon colour comes from Pinot Noir skin contact. Aromas of red berries with a lively mousse before a creamy palate with strawberry and toasty note. A fun, off-dry quaffer that goes perfectly with black pepper and balsamic vinegar chips, or just about anything (though maybe not dog food). $24.90 90 pts.

Seaside Pearl Sparkling Rosé (Fraser Valley VQA)

This charming winery is tucked away in Mount Lehman, in the Fraser Valley, about an hour’s drive east of Vancouver. A blend of 50% Pinot Noir with Gamay Noir and Zweigelt. Vibrant red and black fruit aromas, lightly sparkling, juicy with good acidity, strawberry, raspberry and cranberry through cassis and earthy notes to close. $25, 89 pts.

Stag’s Hollow Muscat Frizzante 2019 (Okanagan Falls). 

From estate vineyards in OK Falls, this carbonated ‘brut styled’ blend of 49.7% Muscat Ottonel, 45.3% Orange Muscat, 5% Riesling sports white flowers with hints of stonefruit and orange blossom before a quite dry, well balanced palate of peach and pear notes through a lingering floral finish. A fun and delightfully tasty drop. $24. 90 pts. 

Unsworth Vineyards Sparkling Brut Rosé (British Columbia VQA)

This is labeled “Method Cuvée Close,” another term for Charmat. A blend of Gamay (49%) Pinot Blanc (26% Cowichan) and Pinot Noir (8%, West Kelowna), plus some others. It’s pretty pale salmon, with long and lively bubbles, strawberry and rhubarb notes. One of the most stylin’ drops around for the price.  $19.04 (winery).

Pentage Fizz Blanc 2019 (Okanagan Valley VQA) 

Here’s a fun departure, a blend of 75% Gewurz. and 24% Ehrenfelser which sports aromas of orchard fruits with apple and floral notes, plenty of froth and bubbles with a citrus and pear palate, quite generous mouthfeel and decent finish. Think Waldorf salads, and lightly sweet desserts. 90 pts.  $23.95 Also, Pentage Fizz Rosé 2019 (Okanagan Valley VQA)

Covert Farms Organic Sparkling Zinfandel 2019 (Okanagan Valley)

Certified organic, estate grown 100 percent Zinfandel, méthode ancestrale. Pale to medium salmon coloured, with red berry aromas and a pink mousse, this is a fun, low alcohol (8.9%) sparkler with strawberry and raspberry notes and a touch of mineral through the finish. $32.80  88 pts.

Crowsnest The Nest Sparkling NV 2018 (Similkameen Valley)

This blend of Pinot Auxerrois, Chardonnay and Riesling comes from the Similkameen’s original winery. Orchard fruits on the nose followed by a soft palate of apples and pears through a crisp finish. 88 pts.