Malbec is on a roll. Still. And Malbec World Day (April 17th) is again almost here.
Argentina founded its reputation on Malbec, which has become immensely popular. Yet that love affair is actually quite a recent phenomenon. Historically, in France, Malbec was used mainly as a blending wine. The exception is in Cahors, where it’s been rightly long celebrated as a single variety. But there it tends to be a very different animal.
Vineyards in Cafayate, Northern Argentina
Michel Rolland—one of the original ‘flying winemakers’—played a key role in bringing Malbec to the world stage. He was a prime mover in helping Argentina develop its early export market, based on a modern approachability. The country owes its success to the easy drinking, fruit forward style in which Malbec is made.
However, things are changing…
There’s no question that Argentina’s flagship grape remains popular. But Malbec is also evolving. Is Argentina succeeding in its efforts to shift the variety’s reputation from being solely value driven to a wine that deserves to be taken more seriously? It certainly seems that way.
What’s in store?
A taste through the current crop of Malbecs available in BC suggests winemakers have indeed succeeded in raising the bar. For the past few years Mendosza producers have focused on higher elevations and specific terroirs. These are most notably in the alluvial soils of the Andes foothills. The results are often impressive. Also, there are signs that other varieties, such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, are gaining ground. While not as prolific as Malbec, these are planted in significant quantities. Moreover, they are becoming more appreciated. In fact Wines of Argentina has broadened the mandate of Malbec World Day “to raise awareness about the quality and variety of wines the country produces.”
You’ll still have no problem tracking down those bargain wines which helped Argentina establish its earlier reputation. But these days, for a few dollars more, you can find value at every level.
What’s hot?
Here’s a few highlights—all drops well worth tracking down. Check your local store for the full selection—and not a few specials.
Achaval Ferrer Malbec 2017 (Mendoza)
From high altitude (ave. 1000m.), high density plantings in Cuyo. Aromas of red and black fruit. Intensely fruit driven, spice and cassis notes, plush and rounded generous mouthfeel. Well balanced with chalky tannins and mineral undertones. Complex and layered with a lengthy close. 91 pts. $27.99 PWS.
Bodegas Escorihuela 1884 Malbec 2017
From one of Argentina’s oldest producers. This perennial value drop delivers black fruits and toasty vanilla on the nose. A well balanced palate of cassis and chocolate notes wrapped in approachable tannins with a touch of spice. 90 pts. $17.99 BCLS
Don David Reserve Malbec 2017 (Calchaqui Valley)
This wine comes not from Mendoza but from the northern part of the country, near Salta, not far from the border with Bolivia and Peru. It’s a spectacularly beautiful region, 1800m. above sea level, with alluvial soils and very low humidity and overall ideal conditions. Vibrant up front red berries precede a plush fruity entry with damson and mocha, vanilla and raisin notes through a lengthy end. 90 pts. Excellent value at $14.49 BCLS
More about the amazing Calchaqui Valley and area here:
Trapiche Broquel Malbec 2016 (Uco Valley)
A pleasant surprise and new discovery. From high elevation, estate vineyards over 1000m. Forward black fruit with spicy hints before a plush and plummy mouth-filling palate with a distinct, savoury streak. 91 pts. Good value at $16.99 BCLS
Dona Paula Estate Malbec 2016 (Uco Valley)
From sandy and clay loam and partially stony soils at 1,050m. above sea-level. Hand harvested and concrete egg fermented. 18 months in French oak. Give this wine a little time to open in the glass. Red and black fruit and floral aromas up front. Juicy entry, medium to full bodied. Elegant mouthfeel, redcurrant, mulberry, mineral and oak plus a touch of spice in the close. Might be worth tucking away for a few years. 91 pts. $18.99 BCLS
Finca Decero Malbec 2016 (Agrelo)
An exceptional wine from one of Mendoza’s more meticilous producers. 1150 MASL. Hand harvested and basket pressed, with minimal handling. Judicious oak program with mix of new and used French oak. Vibrant red berry and floral notes with a plush dark cherry entry. Structured, with mineral hints, wrapped in juicy acidity with rounded, integrated tannins and a lingering spicy finish. A standout. 93 pts. $22-$25 PWS
Kaiken Ultra Malbec 2015 (Uco Valley)
From high altitude vineyards (1100-1300m) and alluvial soils. Intense red and black fruit and floral up front. Rounded, plush, mulberry and savoury with spicy peppery flavours. Medium to full bodied with complex layers, mineral notes and a lengthy finish. 92 pts. c. $30 PWS
Trapiche Ambrosia Malbec 2014 (Tupungato)
A single vineyard wine from Gualtallary, Tupungato, Mendoza, 1307m. Intense red berry fruit aromas. A balanced entry, luscious redcurrant, dark plum and tayberry, elegant rounded tannins, black pepper and spice. Structured with good acidity and a lengthy close. Even though 2014, still youthful. Put it away for a few years and you’ll be well rewarded. 92 pts. $43.99 BCLS
Plus… a couple of Cabernets worth tracking down:
Finca La Linda Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 (Mendoza)
A very approachable but gently polished Cab Sauv. Medium bodied with a touch of smokiness, easy tannins and juicy acidity. Thirty year old estate vines from Luigi Bosca, c $20 PWS
La Mascota Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 (Mendoza)
Good value Cabernet, with red and black berry and tea notes up front. Good varietal character, with hints of cassis and vanilla, well managed oak, well integrated tannins and a solid finish. 91 $16.99 BCLS
Cuma (Michel Torino) Torrontes 2018 (Calchaqui)
It seems this always makes our list as the token white. Torrontes is still under the radar for a lot of people, whci is a pity. This has become a house favourite for its almost Gewurz-like nose, with citrus orange hints and tropical toned palate. Also from Salta. 90 pts. $13.99 BCLS
Luigi Bosca Brut Nature
A well made traditional method wine, this sparkler yields a fine stream of persistent bubbles with a good mousse. Nicely textured, a generous mouthfeel with some leesy notes, citrus and good acidity. 90 pts. BCLS $29.99
Malbec World Day Free Tastings
Check out several free consumer tastings being offered in celebration of #MalbecWorldDay.
April 12
– BC Liquor Stores Park Royal Signature Store (Kick-off tasting 4:00pm – 7:00pm – featured wines paired with complimentary empanadas from Panaderia Latina Bakery)
April 12 – 13
Tastings offered at 20 BC Liquor Stores
April 13 –
Marquis Wine Cellars (2 – 5 pm. Free tasting with complimentary Panaderia empanadas, live music from a Latin duo with Stephanie Pedraza. Donations to the BC Hospitality Foundation welcomed.)
April 17 –
Everything Wine (3 – 7 pm. All locations.)
April 18 –
JAK’s Beer, Wine & Liquor, (3 -7 pm. Nine locations.)
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