There was a time when ‘bag in box wines’ were viewed with a degree of disdain—and generally with good reason. The formula was pretty straightforward. Big wineries took their ‘also-ran’ grapes (or whatever they could buy on the bulk market), dumped them into a nondescript blend and came up with a clever name.
Often it would be something cringe-worthy—leaning towards impersonation or obfuscation! One of the most infamous in the annals of Canadian bag in box wine lore would have to be ‘Hochtaler’. Sadly, I haven’t been too successful in tracing its pedigree. But it is white and—as Hugh Johnson might say—there are definitely grapes involved (from somewhere, anyway). And it’s still around—although there’s now a ‘Dry’ version as opposed to the classic off-dry sweeter style. Arguably its biggest claim to fame remains a ‘Cabaret’ musical inspired TV ad, complete with leggy Liza Minelli look alike.
A Pandemic Boxed In Response?
In French supermarkets, Bag in Box (BIB) sales increased 10% between January 2020 and January 2021. Drinks Business notes that in Scandinavia box wines now account for half of the shelf space. DB also reports Robert Joseph calls Bag in Box the ‘unloved child’ of the wine trade. Perhaps most interesting, Joseph goes on to ask “… Why do we bottle in 75cl? It’s the lung capacity of a French glass blower in the 17th century.”
• A Ribbiting Good Drop
Speaking of all things French, we recently tasted eminently drinkable Arrogant Frog White (IGP Pays d’Oc). Here’s one reason why the box is back in a big way. This is a wine you can easily tuck away in your fridge for any time you need it. That might be: as a quick sip when friends drop in; a worthy drop to go along with your fresh seafood marinara; or even a splash to take your wild mushroom risotto to the next level. It’s fruity, fun and, yes, unapologetically irreverent, thanks to its quirky, cartoonish look.
Toujours en forme
But beneath that decidedly grenouillesque package lurks a bladder filled with an appealingly quaffable 70-30 Chardonnay – Viognier blend. The varieties are vinified separately, cold-fermented over three weeks and the Chardonnay partially French oak aged. Expect stone-fruit and tropical aromas, followed by fresh and lively fruit with good acidity on the palate and a decent finish. In short, it’s good value for money—or, as they say, pretty good ‘QPR.’ 3 litres, BCLS $34.99 (on special at $31.99 until Sept 4). 89 pts. P.S. The rosé is also apparently worth a look. You might want to hop smartly down to your local BCLS…
AF au bord de la Mer: (fully clothed) at Cap d’Agde
I’d also suggest this humble drop to some degree underscores the significant advances made in Languedoc in recent years. Arrogant Frog is the immensely successful caricature brand dreamed up by Jean Claude Mas of Domaines Paul Mas fame. Also worth noting, a large portion of ‘Chateau Arrogant Frog’s clay and limestone soil vineyards is sustainably farmed. I also like that this wine is entirely transparent, with specific origins and winemaking readily available.
How come (some) bag in box wines stack up so well?
A little history… Australian winemaker Thomas Angove came up with the original idea for box wines in 1965. In fact it was the Aussies who perfected the now familiar bladder and spigot that became a foundation of their early industry.
• They’re still good value
Bag in Box wines are enjoying new found respectability. They’ve not only endured but grown in popularity in recent years, especially as, generally, the quality, has improved. Even though their bigger volume (usually) means better value, they’re no longer the domain solely of budget wines. In fact some producers (such as the Okanagan’s Pentage Winery) have used them to package mid-range and even premium tiers.
• The Wine Stays Fresher
Wine kept in an opened bottle quickly oxidizes and lasts at best a couple of days. However, bag in box wine flows out of a bladder, which contracts with the the volume as it diminishes. That greatly reduces oxidization and keeps it much fresher, usually for as long as a few weeks. Arrogant Frog suggests finishing by two weeks after opening. But my hunch is it could last a bit longer…
• Bag in Box is environmentally friendly
Studies vary as to just how much more eco friendly the box is but some suggest as much as almost 90 percent. Regardless, all agree that the bladder box offers a significantly lighter carbon footprint than the glass bottle. Plus, compared to the fragility of glass, it’s just about indestructible. The box is much more efficient to ship and considerably lighter. And easier to recycle when empty, as the plastic liner and cardboard box are easily separated.
• It’s Compact—and Convenient
Maybe the Scandinavians are onto something. After all, just what is the point of buying your everyday wine in four 750 ml. bottles when a 3 litre box weighs as much as a couple of kilos less, doesn’t take up as much room, keeps longer and is much more easily recycled?
Over the years I’ve seen all kinds of alternatives to the standard, one-way wine bottle offering. One of the best was at Melbourne’s Queen Victoria Market, where Re-Wine has been refilling returnable wine (and beer) bottles and containers since 2005.
Also, who can argue with the success in the BC market of keg wines? In just a few years wine on tap has transformed most restaurant wine lists’ by-the-glass offerings.
Wines like Arrogant Frog suggest if there is still a stigma attached to good value, well-made bag in box wines it’s past time we lose it.
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