Quails’ Gate is celebrating 30 years. Time flies. It seems like only yesterday that Ben Stewart poured us a taste of the first Stewart Family Reserve Pinot Noir. We were sitting on a picnic table outside a then much smaller winery. And we almost fell off when Ben told us the price. “You’re going to sell it for how much? Thirty bucks?” Yes, it’s true: in those pre-Oculus days nobody thought any BC wine was worth $29.99. Especially if it was red…
This week CEO Tony Stewart kicked off the anniversary year by hosting a dinner at Blue Water Café. We sampled Chef Frank Pabst’s delicious dishes paired with wines from Quails’ Gate’s portfolio. In between, Tony chatted about the last three decades. (He told me they put the first SFRs in a wooden box—at their wine agent’s insistence. And hand wrapped each one in paper. With a special seal…)
Dick Stewart and son Ben in a vineyard in 1968
“The road from where we started to where we are today was a long one,” he said. “But we’re still a small winery, making under 100,000 cases a year.”
I’ve been lucky enough to get to know the family and watch the winery grow, almost since its inception. Monday’s dinner highlighted the range of wines now produced. It included stalwarts like Chenin Blanc, award winning Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Syrah. And, not to be overlooked, Late Harvest Optima.
My top matches were the Richard’s Block Pinot Noir ’15, with Yarrow Meadows duck breast. (Black truffle and parsnip cream certainly helped.)
Almond macaroon and white peach pana cotta—with Quails Gate Optima 2017
And the stone fruit toned Optima ’17 with almond macaroon and white peach pana cotta. Oh, and yes, Chenin Blanc ’17 with oysters on the half shell. Because, well, oysters and Chenin…
Did you know?
• The Stewart Family used to grow apples before grapes. Richard (Dick) Stewart planted his orchard in 1956. Later, he was among the first to plant vinifera.
• Before becoming an Estate Winery, Quails’ Gate was one of the original ‘Farmgate’ wineries. They laid the foundation for the modern BC industry. However, it quickly surpassed the farmgate limit of 2,000 cases.
A perfect pair
• In 1989 Quails’ Gate was one of only 14 estate wineries in BC. An early success, Chenin Blanc remains popular to this day. (Especially with raw oysters!) New plantings (an extra 10 acres) will increase its production.
• The winery’s Marechal Foch enjoys a cult following. At one time they used it for the Okanagan Wine Festival grape stomp. It was due to be pulled out. But Aussie winemaker Jeff Martin (now owner of La Frenz) convinced the Stewarts to keep it. He said he would “make it just like Shiraz.” And the rest, as they say, is history.
• The name ‘Quails’ Gate’ refers to the flocks of quail that roam the property, especially down by the lakeshore. And, yes, the apostrophe is important!
• The winery’s original tasting room is a log cabin built by Susan and John Allison. They were the first European settlers to live in the area. Now used for private tastings, the Stewarts restored it and saved it from dereliction.
The carefully restored Allison home used to house the Quails’ gate tasting room, Brian Sprout photo
• Quails Gate will soon embark on a ‘limited production’ sparkling wine project, headed by V-P of Operations, Susan Doyle. The first bottles should be ready in about five years.
• The new vineyard (and winery) in South Kelowna will be the largest single vineyard in Kelowna.
Quails’ Gate Wine notes (previously reviewed)
Quails Gate Chenin Blanc 2017 (Estate grown, Okanagan Valley). From 20 year old estate vines. Aromas of citrus, sage and orchard fruits precede a textured palate of apple and pear wrapped in juicy acidity. Mineral undertones and gentle creamy notes lead to a lengthy end. Good ageing potential. $19.99 91 pts.
Quails Gate ‘The Boswell’ Syrah 2016 (Estate grown, Okanagan Valley)
Grown mainly in the home estate West Kelowna vineyard, with some fruit from Black Sage. Aged 18 months in French and American oak. Forward blue and black fruit notes precede a complex and layered spicy mid-palate. Classic meaty and game notes of blackberry, cherry and anise, supported by plush, well integrated tannins. A lingering, spicy finish. $69.99 93 pts.
Quails’ Gate Richard’s Block Pinot Noir 2016 (Estate grown, Okanagan Valley)
From selected blocks. Named for winery founder Richard Stewart, who also planted some the valley’s first Pinot. A blend of four hand-picked, classic Dijon clones, vinified separately. Aromas of dark berries, earthy and savoury notes supported by measured oak. Elegant, silky and well-integrated tannins allow freshness and acidity to shine through. $54.99 91 pts.
Alaskan King Crab ‘Carbonara’, paired with Stewart Family Reserve Chardonnay
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