Winemaker’s dinners come in every iteration. But—no question—last night’s Fairview Cellars collab with Vancouver’s Provence Marinaside was one for the books—a sold-out soirée marked by myriad good tastes both in the glass and on the plate. What’s more, there was a real vibe in the room, one of genuine enjoyment and appreciation, that underscored the new owners’ relationship with their customers.
It’s just a couple of years since Danielle and Dermott Hutton formally took over the winery from Fairview founder Bill Eggert. Danielle is the winemaker and GM while Dermott manages the vineyards and all things related. The transition was no small accomplishment, considering that Fairview has always been very much Eggert’s personification. However, prior to the sale being finalized in 2022, the couple worked with the Okanagan pioneer for a few years. That not only ensured a smooth transition but allowed the them time to absorb much of Eggert’s expertise and viticultural philosophy.
That said, it’s already apparent Danielle Hutton is a competent winemaker in her own right, though still with a refreshingly down to earth approach. She says, unabashedly, “I make the wines for my palate,” adding (no fancy process!) “I pick when the grapes are ripe—and make the wine.”
As Danielle suggested, in a way, last night’s dinner was a kind of ‘coming out’ to the legion of Vancouver’s Fairview fans—always a solid base but significantly increased under the new ownership and wine club. (The latter has a waiting list—something that doesn’t happen too often…)
All the wines served were made under the new ownership, with the exception of the 2014 Fairview Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon. (Also, judging from Danielle’s comments, there’ll be a sparkling wine to come at some point in the future.)
Fairview plus Provence palate pleasers
Some wickedly good tastes conceived by Chef Jean-Francis Quaglia’s team were smartly paired with the Fairview wines by Provence Wine Director Joshua Carlson. Standouts from the strong lineup included:
• Cleverly matched spiced carrots and seductive whipped goat cheese (above)—with Fairview Cellars 2023 Sauvignon Blanc (92 pts, nicely tempered with 12% Semillon), which benefits from a extra heft from a little time in neutral French oak.
• Superb sablefish with sun-choke velouté and house cured bacon lardons (mildly addictive!) paired with the buttery but judiciously oaked ’21 Fairview Cellars Chardonnay (92):.
• And perfectly cooked beef tenderloin in red wine and peppercorn jus, dutifully mached with intensely fruity, mulberry and spice-toned ’21 Fairview Cellars The Bear (93).
There’s plenty of evidence here that, when it comes to marrying food and wine, Carlson has truly emerged as one of the city’s more astute practitioners.
Move quickly and you can buy all the wines poured (including The Bear and 2014 Cab. Sauv (92) in the Provence Dinner Pack, for $245, at fairviewcellars.ca
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