Nota Bene 2022: An Impressive Milestone

Black Hills Nota Bene is surely one of BC’s iconic wines. Even those who might argue otherwise would agree it’s evolved to become BC’s most indelible ‘cult’ wine.

Among the Okanagan’s first Bordeaux-styled blends, a couple of other notables preceded it. They included Mission Hill Oculus and Sumac Ridge Pinnacle. Oculus has indeed become a collector’s wine in the top tier (2019, Decanter 95 pts). When introduced at $50, Pinnacle was the most expensive BC wine to date . (It’s since vanished, Sumac Ridge has been realigned as a budget brand—and the winery is now closed.)

However, then as now, it was Nota Bene that captured everyone’s attention. it succeeded as much for the smart name and distinctive label as for what was in the bottle. 

The origins

Black Hills Nota Bene’s inaugural, 1999 vintage (released 2001) was made by Senka Tennant. It was Senka, with her husband Bob Tennant and partners Susan and Peter McCarrell, who planted on Black Sage Road in 1996.  At the time, like much of the east bench, the 14 ha. site was undeveloped. Its distinguishing feature was an old quonset hut—that became the first Black Hills winery. 

In those days, in part due to California’s influence,  the BC wine market was driven mainly by single varieties. B ut there was movement to focus more on blending, and on Bordeaux in particular. If anything it was to appease the europhiles (mainly in Vancouver). Most insisted that BC would never be able to hold a candle to the ‘Old World’.

In 2007, the Black Hills founders sold to Vinequest Wine Partners, who took things to the next level. The new ownership, under Glenn Fawcett, brought in a wide circle of investors—which included a big chunk of change from Alberta! That in turn facilitated building a new winery and significantly upgrading  the equipment. A nearby home was remodelled into the Black Hills Tasting Experience, which quickly became a trendsetter.

Nota Bene: a pivotal moment

It’s important to put things into context. These were still early days in the new industry, especially when it came to red wines. There were few worth drinking. And most BC wines on restaurant lists were cool climate Germanic varieties. The most widely planted white was Pinot Blanc, not Chardonnay.

Just three years before the Tennants planted, Harry McWatters established his Sundial Vineyard. A gamble, It was the largest single planting to-date of Bordeaux varieties in Canada. Up until then most of the vines south of Oliver consisted of white varieties, with some planted under the Becker Project.

The early Okanagan industry (in the 70s and 80s) was primarily located well north of Oliver.  A major exception was the Osoyos Indian Band’s 260 acre Inkameep Vineyard on Oliver’s east bench. Hybrids made up most of the earlier plantings. But that changed with the advent of NAFTA in 1988. It  led to a provincial government program to pull out hybrids in favour of vinifera. And focus on quality rather than volume and bulk wine.

Harry’s announcement was marked by cold, windy weather and a sudden rainstorm. Never mind. As usual, he was beyond bullish that the project would succeed.

Also early out of the gate in 1993 on Black Sage Road was the Burrowing Owl Vineyard.  Tinhorn Creek established on the valley’s west side, with some vinifera plantings dating from 1989. 

Others spurred on by McWatters included Vincor’s Don Triggs and Karl Kaiser. In 1996 they signed a 30-year lease agreement with Chief Clarence Louie and the Osoyoos Indian Band. Vincor engaged renowned viticulturist Dr. Richard Smart to map out 900 acres for Bordeaux varieties. They nicknamed it ‘The Big Idea.’

Planting in 1996 for the purpose of making a single blend, Black Hills was well ahead of its time. And the name ‘Nota Bene’ was a stroke of genius.

Adapting to the present

Ross Wise, MW, Black Hills GM & director of winemaking

Since its inception, Nota Bene typically has been a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s comprised about one half, along with Merlot and some Cabernet Franc. More recently, GM and director of winemaking Ross Wise, MW has been tweaking things as needed. 2020, for example, was more Cab Franc (42%) while 2022 is Merlot dominant (46%).

Wise has also introduced some other important changes, such as whole berry fermentation and natural yeast.  He also purchased a gentler handling basket press for the 2022 vintage.

Looking ahead, Wise says 2023 Nota Bene “looks pretty good, a decent crop”. However, when eventually released it may possibly be the last for a few years. There’ll definitely be no Nota Bene made in 2024. Beyond that, “We’re evaluating all our options, he adds.” 

“Because of an extensive replanting program we’re relying on growers for three years,” says Wise.  The new vines are now all in the ground. Wise feels with climate change “Cab Sauv and Cab Franc make for stronger varieties, while Merlot struggles in the hot season.” As a result he’s looking to refocus Nota Bene more back to Cabernet.

Also, shifting the rows’ orientation to 15 degrees east of north will provide more shade during the hottest parts of the day. And higher density plantings will reduce yields to produce more powerful and concentrated fruit. 

Syrah is another Black Hills success story. More has been replanted, especially where it enjoys good cold air drainage. Other varieties include Carménère and Tempranillo. The latter, he says, is proving to be quite resilient in regions such as Spain’s Ribera del Duero.

Black Hills Nota Bene 2022 (Okanagan Valley BC VQA)

A blend of 46% Merlot, 36% Cabernet Sauvignon and 18% Cabernet Franc, Forward, vibrant wild red and black fruits with some floral, sage and mint nuances. An appealing and approachable plush and plummy palate with mulberry and spice undertones. Supported by fine, well integrated tannins, generous mouthfeel and a lingering, smooth finish. IMHO one of the best to date. Winery suggests cellar worthy for 20 years. 94 pts.

Order Nota Bene here.