Last time I checked there were well over 75 different varieties of vinifera grown in BC. That’s not surprising. Compared to the rest of the wine world, this corner of the Pacific Northwest is still a youngster. In other words, we’ve only recently begun to ‘drill down’ on what does best in a specific area. (Think Sub-GIs.) The province is made up of several contrasting climatic regions. Hence, what thrives in the south Okanagan doesn’t always do so well on Vancouver Island or the Shuswap, and so on. However, Gamay has the potential to be quite widely grown, as it performs well in both moderate and cooler climate regions.
It’s interesting to watch how varieties come into vogue. Slowly but surely, BC Gamay is carving out a niche for itself. In part because people such as Blue Mountain reckoned early on that Gamay and Pinot could do well in BC. They were right. And became the first to enjoy significant success. Blue Mountain Gamay Noir helped set the standard and remains among the best examples of what can be achieved.
Part of the variety’s challenge stems from years of consumers being relentlessly driven towards ‘big reds’. However, Gamay’s lighter, more nuanced—and food friendly—characteristics are something that mainstream drinkers are now beginning to appreciate, much as they are Pinot Noir.
Other wineries who have hopped on the Gamay train include Quails’ Gate. It was the first BC winery to make a ‘Nouveau’ style, which it cleverly calls ‘Cailleteau.’ The wine is a lot more interesting than much of the big brand Beaujolais Nouveau that traditionally lands in the third week of November. More Gamay producers of note include Orofino, Hillside, JoieFarm and Vancouver Island’s Blue Grouse.
Gamay Gaining Ground
In the BC Wine Grape Council’s 2019 crop report Gamay ranks 7th, after Malbec and ahead of Petit Verdot. Merlot is BC’s most widely planted red (although Pinot Noir is growing fast) while Pinot Gris leads the white pack.
Stylistically, BC Gamay Noir tends to be a little more fruit-driven than its French counterpart. In cooler years (such as 2019) the wines tend to be lighter. While Gamay is occasionally dismissed as Pinot’s poor cousin—even sometimes described as ‘rustic’—BC Gamay often offers fantastic value. And is anything but ‘rustic.’
What to buy
Gamay adds up to a great summer wine, ideal for sipping (try it slightly chilled) or for pairing with a wealth of barbecue and picnic fare.
Here’s a few recently tasted very much worthy of attention. There would be more. But I’m missing my Robin Ridge (Similkameen) Gamay 2018 notes (from last year). It was definitely 90+. If you see it, or the 19, my advice is to check it out ($23.25).
Pentage Gamay Noir 2018 (Skaha Bench, Okanagan Valley)
A highlight among several Pentage wines which recently impressed. 100% Gamay Noir from one of BC’s newest sub GIs. Aged 14 months in a combination of neutral barrels, large second fill puncheons and stainless steel. Vibrant forward notes of crushed red berries precede a supple and well balanced medium bodied palate bursting with raspberry and spice notes wrapped in well integrated tannins with an undertone of juicy acidity through the lengthy close. 93 pts. Excellent value at $20 (winery).
A blend of 68% Gamay with 28% Pinot Noir, 5% Zweigelt and 4% Dolcetto, from various sites in Okanagan Falls, Oliver and Keremeos. Hand-harvested, sorted, de-stemmed, with each lot kept separate until the final blend. Bright red berries up front with some earthy notes followed by a supple palate of dark cherry, spice and savoury elements with generous mouthfeel underpinned by juicy acidity, with a distinct mineral streak through the finish. Enjoy it slightly chilled, although more complexity shows through as it warms. 92 pts. $22 (winery).
Rust Gamay Noir 2019 (VQA Similkameen Valley)
Rust Wine Co. (the former Rustico Winery) is at the southern end of the Golden Mile Bench. However, the grapes for this wine come from Cawston, just over the hills in next door Similkameen. Rust is turning out some pretty delicious drops these days, including this nod to Beaujolais, defined by bright raspberry and cherry with juicy acidity, wrapped in savoury and spice notes. Even better news, when you buy the $50 magnum, Rust will donate $5 for each one sold to the BC Hospitality Foundation. 91 pts.
VinAmité Gamay Noir 2017 (Okanagan Valley)
An excellent example of why BC Gamay is on a roll. Lovely, vibrant red fruit on top followed by a complex palate of cranberry, cherry and mulberry wrapped in bright acidity and a gentle, spicy edge through a lingering end. 92 pts. $29.90 (winery). More on VinAmité here.
Sandhill Rosé 2019 (VQA British Columbia)
With fruit from both the Sandhill estate and Similkameen’s Rocky Ridge, this is a blend of mainly Gamay Noir (81%), with Merlot (13%) and a splash of Sangiovese (6%). Lighly orange tinged salmon in the glass. Aromas of red berries and herbal hints lead to a mouth filling palate of fresh strawberry and cranberry, with citrus and savoury notes, and good acidity through the finish. 91 pts. $20 BCLS. More BC rosé reviews here.
Haywire Gamay 2018 (VQA Okanagan Valley)
OCP winemaker Matt Dumayne with owners Christine Coletta and Steve Lornie, plus concrete ‘eggs.’ Photo: Lionel Trudel
Okanagan Crush pad winemaker Matt Dumayne says “Gamay quickly became my favourite variety to make and drink when I started with OCP eight years ago.” And he adds that this 2018 is the best to date. We couldn’t agree more. It’s also an ideal variety for the concrete fermenters (both egg and open top) which Dumayne and Okanagan Crush Pad have pioneered. From Secrest Mountain Vineyard, Oliver (certified organic in 2019). Unencumbered by oak, the aroma is brimming with bright red berry fruit before a lush and juicy palate of vibrant cherry with some earthy hints and a touch of spice. It all adds up to a perfect symphony of pure fruit and fresh acidity. 93 pts. $26.90 BCLS.
Haywire Gamay Rosé 2019 (VQA Okanagan Valley)
Pale salmon in the glass, floral, and herbaceous notes with mineral hints, followed by a fresh and lively palate of quince and orange with a streak of bright acidity and savoury notes through the crisp finish. 91 pts. $22.90
H.B. – My friend Rob Goltz planted Gamay Noir in 1999 at Sandhill III C7 modelling after Blue Mountain.
Jim Wyse agreed to second the motion as the land was under BOVs ownership.
Brilliant of the Mavety’s to model on the Pinot Noir and Gamay Noir a’ Jus Blanc that combines to give Bourgogne Passe a Tout Grains . I was pleased to know from Punch magazine that PTG means to “throw it all in” , a situation that many winemakers can relate to .
Thanks, Howard. What’s remarkable in hindsight is how relatively quickly everyone (including you) moved from hybrids to vinifera. It really was a very short transition.