10 BC Rosés to Relish in Isolation + Toast Dr. Bonnie

Well, it seems that Dr. Bonnie Henry has just made rosé even cooler than we thought was possible. In addition to being the go-to authority on all things Corona-viral, you’ve probably also noticed that BC’s top doc has some pretty impressive fashion smarts. So much so that she’s inspired the province’s most in-demand shoemaker to produce a limited edition ‘Dr. Henry’ Fluevog in her honour (with proceeds to support Food Banks BC). It’s pink, of course, to go with one of her now familiar ensembles that seems to complement perfectly her advice to “be kind, be calm and be safe”—also inscribed on the shoe.

Fast backwards to those heady years before anyone had a clue what social distancing was. You’ll recall that for most of us rosé was an afterthought, the ‘also-ran’ in the wine lineup that nobody took very seriously. 

Even not that long ago you could count the number of drinkable BC rosés on one hand. Too many tasted like spin-offs from melted candy floss. No wonder most people were happy to give them a wide berth. 

Part of the problem was that rosé styles used to be all over the map. But more recently winemakers have been making wines that are lighter, drier, crisper and much more food friendly (think ‘Provence’) driven by an increasingly more sophisticated consumer. 

How times have changed. From Provence to Patagonia, Rosé is on a roll. And it’s very much here to stay, especially in BC. And the fact that rosé from at home —and all over—is now available year round in BC (it wasn’t always) has also helped the growth in sales. Ultimately, though, rosé’s flexibility as a food wine is what makes it so appealing—something that the French have known all along.

Here’s a list of worthy picks that ranges from familiar to lesser known wineries. All share and validate a common theme: that BC rosé is now a firm fixture, made in (generally) much drier styles that showcase, above all, the quality of fruit grown here and increasingly sophisticated winemaking.

Pin it to the fridge, or use it as a #BCwinemonth guide for your next order (see where to buy wine on line in our previous post.) Or, for toasting Dr. Bonnie Henry, as she so well deserves.

Fort Berens Rosé 2019 (VQA Lillooet)

All Lillooet estate-grown fruit, from five different Pinot Noir clones, lends complexity while extended skin contact yielded a medium salmon colour.  Up-front vibrant aromas of red berries, cranberry and earthy notes before a well-textured, viscous but still elegant palate of succulent strawberry and cherry with spice notes, a good balance of fruit and acidity before a lengthy, fruit driven finish. Trailblazing Fort Berens continues to impress. 91 pts. $18.49

Mission Hill Rosé Reserve 2019 (VQA Okanagan Valley)

This blend of Merlot (50%) and Syrah (45%) with 5% Pinot Noir, comes mainly from Mission Hill’s Osoyoos vineyard adjacent to the border. It’s one of the warmest spots in the Okanagan Valley, with 200 frost free days a year.  Pale rose in the glass, aromas of crushed red berries precede a fresh palate of cranberry, rhubarb and watermelon marked by balanced fruit and acidity through a crisp, clean finish. 92 pts. $21.99

Spearhead Pinot Noir Rosé 2019 (VQA Okanagan Valley)

From one of BC’s rising Pinot stars, this 100 percent Pinot Noir is sourced from Gentleman Farmer Vineyard in East Kelowna (above), Golden Retreat in Summerland and Coyote in West Kelowna. In a clever twist, winemaker Grant Stanley uses juice from his unique white Pinot Noir to lighten the colour to medium salmon. Hand harvested and cold soaked on skins for 48 hours. Red berries and citrus on the nose with cherry and rhubarb notes on the palate, well balanced with textured mouthfeel and lengthy finish. 91. $22

Stag’s Hollow Rosé 2019. (VQA British Columbia)

One of this spring’s more interesting rosés, blends 65% Osoyoos Syrah with 35% Zweigelt from Similkameen’s Rocky Ridge. While usually made with 100% Syrah, for 2019 the winery decided to blend in some Zweigelt—and were pleasantly surprised. We can see why. Medium coral in the glass with floral, earthy and pepper aromas, before a juicy, strawberry, quince and mineral toned palate, well structured with good acidity, and a definite vinous element through the dry finish. I love it when winemakers’ gambles pay off like this. 92 pts. $24

Sandhill Rosé 2019 (VQA British Columbia)

With fruit from both the Sandhill estate and Similkameen’s Rocky Ridge, this is a blend of mainly Gamay Noir (81%), with Merlot (13%) and a splash of Sangiovese (6%). Lighly orange tinged salmon in the glass. Aromas of red berries and herbal hints lead to a mouth filling palate of fresh strawberry and cranberry, with citrus and savoury notes, and good acidity through the finish. 91 pts. $20

VinAmité Rosé 2019. (Okanagan Valley)

From a delightful, under the radar winery in Oliver comes this well crafted estate-grown blend of mainly Merlot (68%) with Syrah (17%) plus small amounts of Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Pinot Gris and Viognier. Sounds like a bit of a ‘cocktail’ but the result is a pretty vermillion hue with aromas of red berries; a luscious entry to a cranberry, cherry and raspberry toned palate, quiet acidity and a touch of spice to close. Next time you’re in the South Okanagan drop by to discover there’s a lot more here than meets the eye—starting with a comfy patio overlooking the vineyard, which you don’t see from Hwy. 97. 90 pts. $23.90

Winemaker’s Cut Rosé 2019 (VQA Okanagan Valley)

From Deadman Lake vineyard south of Oliver, this winery is another one of those small, well kept secrets. Pretty pale coral in the glass, aromas of wild red berries and orchard fruits lead to a juicy, fruit-driven palate of strawberry, quince and creamy notes. It’s mouth-filling and well balanced, supported by good acidity with some peppery notes to close. A positively vibrant and delicious wine. 93 pts. $26 (taxes included)

Play Estate Saignée 2019 (Okanagan Valley)

Newly arrived winemaker Stepanie Bryers says the saignée method allows her to harvest Bordeaux varieties (estate and from nearby vineyards) “at phenolic ripeness, avoiding unripe, green characteristics, and then treating the fruit as gently as possible.” Pale salmon in the glass, floral and citrus up front leading to a full fruited and well balanced palate of cranberry and watermelon, with extra weight and mouthfeel from sur lie aging, mineral undertones through a dry, gently spicy close. 92 pts. $26

Play Estate Rosé de Syrah 2019 (Okanagan Valley)

100% Syrah sourced from 10 year old, sustainably farmed vines on the Naramata Bench. Medium salmon colour, distinct varietal and appealing vinous character, with forward notes of red fruit and citrus before a cranberry, rhubarb and grapefruit palate, wrapped in juicy acidity, well structured with some pepper spice and savoury notes through the lingering finish. 91 pts. $24. When things get back to whatever normal proves to be, make sure to put Play Estate and its vista kissed bistro on your ‘must visit’ list.

Quails’ Gate Rosé 2019 (Okanagan Valley)

Quails’ Gate zeroed in on Gamay as the foundation for its rosé a while back. This blend with Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier remains one of the most available and value driven rosés in BC. Pale salmon in the glass, red berries like strawberry and slightly herbal on top, followed by a palate of strawberry, rhubarb and citrus that’s fun and easy drinking with a dry finish. 91 pts, $17.99.

Rust Wine Co. Rosé 2019. (Golden Mile Bench, Okanagan Valley)

100% Cabernet Sauvignon, first harvest from young vines planted in 2016 on stony alluvial fan soils on the very southern edge of GMB. Stainless steel fermented for a red berried, pleasantly fruit forward and fresh style that’s crisp, clean, eminently quaffable and very food friendly. 90 pts.  $22, on special $18.70 through April 30.