South Africa in the Spotlight: Chenin Blanc and more

This month is South Africa’s time to shine at BC Liquor Stores. The pandemic has shut down the array of events and in-store tastings that usually go along with these thematics. But never mind. There’s still no shortage of decent drops to be found. 

One of the oldest ‘new world’ producers, South Africa’s industry dates from the mid-17th century. While the Dutch may have initiated grape growing it was Bordeaux who truly established the wine industry. Many of those early connections remain to this day, granting South African winemakers a unique ‘Old World-New World’ perspective. 

Saturday was Chenin Blanc Day—which I’ve arbitrarily extended to today—and possibly through month end. ;-) That means there’s no better reason to raise a glass to South Africa, which all too often gets lost in the shuffle. But the fact remains that The Cape produces a remarkable range of varieties and styles—some available at surprisingly low prices.

Case in point: a number of Spier wines included in this promotion. The Spier Wine Farm has grown somewhat since I visited several years ago. One of the region’s most sustainably responsible, it also remains among The Cape’s most socially progressive and consistent producers.

Spier Signature Chenin Blanc 2019 (Western Cape)

One of my ‘go-to’ value wines. It’s classic South African Chenin, from the Western Cape, with excellent intensity (loads of orchard fruit like apple and pear plus some tropical hints). Very polished for the money (BCLS $13.99 90 pts). It’s also an easy step up from budget basement Chardonnay, of which there is no shortage these days.

Similarly worth a nod is Spier Pinotage 2018 (90 pts), which rates as one of the better—and, again, affordable—Pinotages out there, and a great introduction if you’ve never tasted one before. $14.99 and up, private stores. And, not to be overlooked, Spier Signature Merlot 2018, with its up-front red and black fruit followed by a fresh and juicy, cherry and mulberry palate. (89 pts. BCLS $13.99)

But back to Chenin Blanc. Another solid budget choice …

Anthonij Rupert Protea Chenin Blanc 2019 (Western Cape)

Here’s an easy drinking drop (named after the national flower) with forward stone fruit and tropical notes before a melon and zesty citrus toned palate. Extra points also for the attractive bottle that’s easily recycled (above with a pink ‘Bottle Lite’) thanks to peel-off labels and a reusable cork. (89 pts. $14.99 BCLS). 

Tania & Vincent Careme Terre Brulée 2018 (Swartland)

One of the more elegant examples of this variety comes from Cape Classics. Terre Brulée 2018 (a drought vintage) comes from 40 year-old unirrigated bush vines in Swartland, planted on shale and decomposed granite soils. The soils come through with flinty notes on the nose, along with orchard notes before a crisp and clean palate of citrus, pear and honeysuckle, supported by good acidity with a distinct mineral streak, full mouthfeel and good acidity. With restrained use of French oak for added weight, this shows Chenin Blanc’s true potential. (92 pts. $21.99 BCLS specialty.)

There’s plenty more worth tasting—including …

Boschendal Estate 1685 Chardonnay 2018 (Western Cape)

One of the nicest expressions of Chardonnay around for the money, it invites with tropical, citrus and vanilla on the nose before a creamy, gently zesty and textured palate with elegant mouthfeel, well balanced oak and good length. An excellent deal indeed for BCLS $19.99. (91 pts.) 

Roodeberg KWV 2018 (Western Cape)

A stalwart which epitomizes South African value, Roodeberg KWV Red Blend is a massively produced Bordeaux blend (Mainly Cab. Sauv. with Shiraz, plus Petit Verdot, Tannat and some ‘Others’) all of which adds up to the perfect pizza or BBQ wine. Forward red berries and ‘pencil’ shaving hints, a well structured palate with raspberry, mulberry and spice notes through a dry finish. Consistently good value for the money (BCLS $13.99, 89 pts.)

BC Liquor Stores’ South Africa thematic runs through to the end of June. Featured are a number of value-priced budget wines, perfect for patio or barbecue season.