Over decades of following BC wineries, I’m convinced few have been as well planned as Quails’ Gate. I’ve watched the Stewart family’s operation blossom from tanks in a garage to a full-service hospitality complex. It’s now among the most sophisticated and well-run I’ve encountered. During a recent visit, I was again struck by the sheer energy of the place, especially by its enthusiastic staff and their professionalism. Now Quails Gate is about to enter an even more exciting, new era…
Quails Gate: the story so far
Quails’ Gate Old Vines Restaurant
The Stewart family has a long history in the Okanagan. In 1911, Richard John Stewart and brother, William had recently arrived from Ireland. They established Stewart Brothers Nursery. Over a century, the business has grown considerably. It supplies trees, shrubs and other items for a clientele now across Western Canada the U.S. In 1956 Stewart’s son Richard purchased the Allison Ranch, in Westbank, and planted fruit trees and vines. Richard’s son, Ben Stewart joined the business in the 1980s. The family established Quails’ Gate Estate Winery in 1989. Since Ben Stewart moved into politics the winery has been run by Richard’s other son, Tony.
A major expansion
A 160 acre parecl of the Stewart Brothers nurseries’ operations has now become part of the winery business. Situated across the lake from Quails’ Gate Estate, at 4500 Stewart Road, in South Kelowna, a major transformation is underway. It started two years ago when one side of the family purchased the land from the other. The new vineyard is about one km. west of Tantalus Vineyards. The land has been graded, irrigation lines installed and planting is well underway.
The view from Quails Gate’s new South Kelowna Vineyard
This new property is at an elevation similar to the Westbank estate, although, overall, about 20 metres higher, at an average of 460 m. above sea level. It’s a sloping site, from east to west, with a steeper pitch on the lower western extremity. Here plans call for a gravity fed winery and tasting room. Sweeping views of Lake Okanagan and Kelowna add up to an impressive panorama.
Heading the project is Quails’ Gate Viticulturist Chad Douglas (right), who hails from an agricultural background in New Zealand. He’s honed his viticultural expertise over 15 years in Central Otago, Europe, and Oregon. Douglas also holds a Masters of Science. His thesis researched the climatic limits of viticulture in New Zealand. Douglas’s laid back but confident style speaks to the careful planning in vineyard layout and planting program.
What’s going in
The rate of planting is about 40 acres a year, with plans for completion by 2021. It remains to be seen what the emphasis will be but there has been some discussion of sparkling wines. The main grapes are Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Most of Quails’ Gate’s existing varieties are going in, including Chasselas and Pinot Blanc and Riesling. No doubt that’s partly to increase volume for their white blend. But it might also free up more fruit from older blocks in the home estate vineyards.
Plans call also for a gravity fed winery to be built on the new vineyard, which enjoys panoramic views of Lake Okanagan and Kelowna. As yet the venture is un-named but internally referred to as ‘SFE’, as in Stewart Family Estate. It seems likely that ‘Stewart,’ ‘Stewart Brothers’ or some variation, will emerge.
A new winemaker
One person not involved in the project is former Quails’ Gate winemaker Nikki Callaway. She has recently moved to Laughing Stock Vineyards. She’s replaced by Ross Baker, who was her right-hand man during her five-year tenure. Promoting from inside where possible makes more sense than starting afresh with a new individual from outside, says Quails’ Gate. The winery feels Baker is the ideal candidate to continue the standards of quality and consistency that his predecessor forged.
Callaway contributed much to Quails’ Gate, including shining the spotlight on some older, heritage blocks. She was also very much becoming the face of the winery; and leaves some big shoes to fill, as evidenced by these latest reviews.
90 Quails’ Gate Pinot Noir 2016 (Okanagan Valley)
Hand harvested from 20-year-old vines. Aged 10 months in French oak. Forward notes of vibrant red fruit and herbal hints. A juicy, well structured, quite plush palate, with a savoury streak and lengthy close. $26.99
91 Quails’ Gate Richard’s Block Pinot Noir 2016 (Westbank)
From selected estate blocks. Named for winery founder Richard Stewart, who also planted some the valley’s first Pinot. A blend of four hand-picked, classic Dijon clones, vinified separately. Aromas of dark berries, earthy and savoury notes supported by measured oak. Elegant, silky and well-integrated tannins allow freshness and acidity to shine through. $54.99
91 Quails’ Gate Chardonnay 2016 (Westbank)
All estate grown fruit. Mainly stainless steel fermented, yields vibrant orchard and stone fruits. A balanced palate of pear, peach and apple enjoys extra body from partial neutral oak. With oak in check, the fruit prevails, perked up by freshness and juicy acidity through the close. Excellent value at $22.99
92 Quails’ Gate Rosemary’s Block Chardonnay 2016 (Westbank)
A salute to the winery’s founding matriarch. Aromas of orchard fruit and almond with a generous palate of apple and pear notes. Toasty, well-integrated oak, with a streak of minerality and a still fresh, lengthy end. $44.99
93 Quails’ Gate Riesling BMV 2017 (Westbank)
Late-picked, from Boucherie Mountain Vineyard, yielded higher residual sugar and fruit expression. Stone fruit on top followed by a luscious but still elegant entry. Excellent structure and mouthfeel from two months in neutral French oak. Bursting with flavours of green apple skin and lemon-lime, lingering citrus and apple finish. A tribute to a 1980s wine made at Kelowna’s Jordan & Ste-Michelle with fruit from the same vineyard. $29.90
92 Quails’ Gate Lucy’s Block Rosé 2017 (East Kelowna
A single vineyard blend 85% Pinot Meunière and 15% Pinot Noir, from Westpoint Vineyard. Cold soaked on the skins overnight to yield a medium salmon colour. Up front strawberries, cranberry and red berry fruits. Elegantly balanced fruit and acidity, a pleasing savoury edge mid-palate, with good length, dry close and a hint of lingering spice. $24.99
93 Quails’ Gate Shannon Pacific Viognier 2016 (Black Sage Bench)
Aromas of jasmine and orange blossom, with some chalky hints. A fresh, clean entry precedes superb balance of fruit and acidity, defined by citrus, stonefruit with a touch of ginger, and mineral. Expands to an elegantly textured mouthfeel from judicious neutral oak before a persistent, spicy end. $23.99
Quails’ Gate’s impressive lakeside vineyard panorama
Leave A Comment