Zagat Survey: When Manhattan Met the Malahat

A Zagat flashback …

Heading ‘down Island’ the other day, a stop at the Malahat Chalet rewarded with its spectacular view of the Saanich Inlet, not to mention pretty tasty, well-executed Eggs Benny. We sat on the sunny deck just a few metres from the road, and marvelled at the endless ocean-mountain-islands panorama.

It took us back to a funny experience we had editing the Zagat Survey, many years ago. (Oh yes, those were the days—before Zagat was swallowed up by insatiable Google.)

Working with Zagat was quite the experience. They actually flew us to NYC for one night (only) to sign our initial contract. At least we got to go to The Russian Tea Room.

Zagat started out in 1979 as a humble but informative newsletter, conceived by Tim and Nina Zagat. The young attorneys thought it would be a great way to build a list of NYC’s best places. It was based purely on experience, devoid of advertising and PR.

Zagat: The Process

The formula was simple. Diners submitted their comments and opinions (hopefully with a dollop of celebrated New York wit or sarcasm). In return they’d receive a compilation with the restaurants rated—and the best comments. In time it became more authoritative and elaborate. Later, as a national brand, it turned into a serious money-maker.

When we started out, the early issues were all compiled by hand. Indeed, there was sometimes even an element of sleuthing involved. Once in a while the occasional restaurateur posing as a surveyor (or several) had to be thwarted.

The procedures were thorough. Surveyors commented and gave ratings for food, atmosphere, service and so on. Editors were required to sort through all submissions (initially handwritten, later computer collated). The goal was to select the comments best reflecting the scores. We then had to weave them into a tight, two sentence paragraph. The format was crucial as, (pre-internet), the final book volume was pocket-sized.  A small battalion back in New York double-checked every detail to make sure the review was correct.

The good news? In New York at least, the Zagat Survey—post Google—is back.

A Local Favourite

But back to the Malahat. Back then, today’s Malahat Chalet & Moon Water Lodge was the Malahat Mountain Inn. And if you knew the lay of the land (and had nerves of steel) you knew precisely when to plan your exit off the winding mountain highway. At times it seemed almost everyone was channelling their inner Fangio or Mario Andretti. But the reward was the view—and the food was (and still is) surprisingly good.

Original Malahat Mountain Chalet, 1956

As Zagat Vancouver grew, we negotiated extra space to include top spots from Whistler and Vancouver Island. We decided that the Malahat Mountain Inn definitely belonged and wrote up the review based on the comments we had. The galleys went off to New York for scrutiny and, in time, back came the query from our senior editor.

“Seriously, is the view, like, really ‘spectacular?”, he challenged with not a little cynicism.

We didn’t write back. We just sent him a picture…