Fort Berens, in Lillooet, BC may well be the province’s most remarkable winery. Think about it. In vine terms a decade is a barely a blink of an eye. And a couple of decades might be a wink. Yet, where many thought it couldn’t be done—Fort Berens has made its mark in well under 20 years.
You could say that Lillooet is just a wee bit off the beaten track. (At least it used to be.) And even though it has one of the highest numbers of Growing Degree Days (more than even Osoyoos), back in 2005 few would have pegged the area as an emerging BC wine region. Let alone that it would become home to the #3 Best Small Winery in Canada (WineAlign National Wine Awards 2022).
On the way to Fort Berens, lake views on the Duffy Lake Road between Pemberton and Lillooet
Looking back further, I have fond memories of the region. When I first came to the coast I occasionally used to drive from Vancouver to Lillooet on business. Not only was it a stunningly beautiful trip but it was also a bit of adventure. In those days the road was mainly dirt beyond Pemberton. And at least a couple of the bridges were little more than twin platforms, where you lined up your wheels and just went for it. By contrast, today’s paved road allows you to relax and fully take in the dramatic scenery.
It’s just ten years since a few of us met up in a Gastown Restaurant to taste Fort Berens’ first estate grown releases. That in itself was noteworthy as in 2012 the plantings were barely four years old.
Lillooet in lieu of…
Fort Berens founders Heleen Pannekoek and Rolf de Bruin initiated their search to establish a winery in 2005. They were drawn to Lillooet in part because of the Okanagan’s overheated land costs, about $100,ooo an acre. (Today it’s more like $250,000.) By comparison the cost of establishing in Lillooet seemed a relative ‘deal.’ Also of note was the team of leading consultants, assembled by the late Harry McWatters, which helped bring the project to fruition.
Combined with the couple’s strong background in corporate finance, Fort Berens seemed poised for success. Ownership divided between eight partners has enabled an ambitious program of solid growth and expansion. That’s not to say there haven’t been challenges along the way—including not a few curve-balls from climate change, especially in 2021.
In the 1970s trial plantings took place in numerous locations across southern BC. Multiple sites ranged from Cowichan to Okanagan and Fraser Valleys. Lillooet was no exception. Over the years a number of trials on and around Lillooet benchlands had shown several varieties to be viable.
l-r, Fort Berens proprietors Rolf de Bruin and Heleen Pannekoek with the late Harry McWatters in 2012
At that Gastown meeting McWatters was bullish (as he often was). He reminded us that some of his earliest Sumac Ridge Chardonnay had come from a river bench near Kamloops. Harry said it was BC’s first commercial Chardonnay. That site was later frozen out. However, it was in a time when winters were colder than today.
Initially, in 2009 Fort Berens planted 20 acres of Riesling, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc and Merlot in the home, Dry Creek Vineyard. Just to the north, 18 acre Red Rock, the second estate vineyard, was initiated in 2018. Planted were Merlot and Cabernet Franc, followed in 2019 by Riesling, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Grüner Veltliner.
Fort Berens winemaker Alessandro (Alex) Nel
New Winemaker Alex Nel Raises the Bar
Fort Berens winemaker Alessandro (Alex) Nel arrived in Lillooet from The Cape on Boxing Day (December 26th) 2020. That meant his first experience in Canada was two weeks of quarantine. Not to mention his first taste of a real Canadian winter. Nel was previously working for Cederberg Wines and Ghost Corner (the highest vineyards in South Africa.)
Given that 2021 turned out to be (almost literally) a baptism by fire, he’s taking 2022’s very cool start pretty much in stride. Having come from South Africa it’s no surprise he likes to work with Chenin Blanc and Shiraz. Several of Fort Berens’ varieties are fairly new to him but he’s already a fan of working with Riesling (“my new favourite”) and Cab Franc (“really excited by it; really elegant!”).
After tasting through Alex Nel’s 2021 white wine releases I’m convinced these are some of Fort Berens’ most impressive wines yet.
Fort Berens Small Lots Launch
That tasting back in 2012 made a bold statement. In its infancy the winery had to rely mainly on Okanagan fruit to generate cash flow. However Pannekoek and de Bruin have remained firmly committed to eventually using only estate fruit.
The 2021 vintage marks the inaugural release of the first Small Lot Series single vineyard wines: Dry Riesling from Dry Creek Vineyard and Grüner Veltliner from Red Rock Vineyard. “Our ultimate goal is to be 100% Lillooet VQA and to really showcase the Lillooet terroir in our wines,” says Rolf de Bruin. Four of the wines currently released are Lillooet VQA, including the Small Lot wines, Chardonnay 2021 and Rosé 2021.
#LyttonStrong
The winery has also emerged as a strong community player. Witness the success of its #Lyttonstrong campaign. The fundraiser donated 100 percent of sales of a special edition Pinot Gris (grown just across the Fraser) back to the fire ravaged village. The project was dreamed up by Rolf de Bruin when he was walking through Winch Spur Vineyard prior to last fall’s harvest. Vineyard owners Nonie and Chuck McCann had watched in horror as the village burned.
De Bruin had hoped to raise $125,000 from the sale of 120 cases along with other initiatives. The funds would be donated to help build a legacy community project. In the end the drive raised over $150,000, thanks to a silent auction, raffle and donations, including wines from several BC wineries. The proceeds will help rebuild the community’s outdoor pool.
The destination anchor
There’s no question in my mind that Fort Berens will continue to surprise and delight us as it follows its trailblazing path. These days it’s attracting plenty of visitors, including many from Whistler. It’s also a natural stop for those inclined to take the more scenic route between Vancouver and Kamloops. The tasting room boasts a sweeping mountain panorama backdrop and The Kitchen at Fort Berens is back in full swing.
What’s equally important is the message sent by its success.
Cliff and Gorge Vineyards commenced planting in exactly the same week as Fort Berens, in 2009. It’s located at stunningly beautiful Texas Creek Ranch, about 18 kms south east of Lillooet.
Owner Eckhard Zeidler (who grew grapes initially on Salt Spring Island) admits he’s obsessed by growing only proven mildew-resistant varieties. That’s a direct result of his ‘disdain for powdery mildew.’ Zeidler makes straightforward, fruit driven wines and uses no oak whatsoever. He’s a wealth of information and welcomes visitors for a self guided tour or for BYO picnics, along with a set tasting purchase of six half bottles ($70), glasses supplied. Bottles are all screw cap, so you can easily take what’s left with you. He recommends wearing sturdy shoes for a walk on the gorge ‘beside the mighty Fraser.’ And suggests you plan to spend two to three hours exploring and tasting.
Here’s what you could be tasting now…
Fort Berens Rosé 2021 Lillooet BC VQA
A blend of estate grown Dry Creek Pinot Noir (79%) with Merlot (13%) and Cabernet Franc (8%) from newly planted Red Rock. Vibrant salmon colour with red berries on the nose before a juicy, mouthwatering strawberry and raspberry toned refreshing palate with a savoury edge. Excellent with cold cuts and mild cheeses or just as a summer sipper. $21.99 / 91 pts.
Fort Berens Riesling 2021 BC VQA
Fruit sourced from the home estate and Vernon’s The Rise vineyard. Up-front tropical and stone fruit notes before a peach, pear and apple toned, gently off-dry palate with zesty notes to close. Good value. $21.99 / 90 pts at BCL.
Fort Berens Small Lot Dry Riesling 2021 Lillooet BC VQA
Estate grown grapes sourced from original plantings in Dry Creek vineyard. Extended, 5 months lees contact adds to the generous and nicely textured mouthfeel. Up front orchard and stone fruits lead to an apple and peach toned palate with lingering green apple finish. $24.99 / 92 pts.
Fort Berens Pinot Gris 2021 BC VQA
Dry Creek Estate fruit combined with grapes from West Kelowna and Savona. Aged on the lees for five months. Orchard fruit, floral and some honey aromas precede a fresh but creamy, apple and pear toned palate, pleasing balance of fresh fruit and bright acidity, quite hefty mid-palate and a lengthy end. Great value again, $21.99 / 92 pts.
Fort Berens Chardonnay 2021 Lillooet BC VQA
Mainly fermented and aged in stainless steel, except for about 30 percent in neutral French oak. Lifted notes of citrus and stone fruit, nutmeg, vanilla and buttery notes. Excellent balance of fruit and acidity with white peach, nectarine and apple. One of the best BC Chardonnays recently encountered. Excellent value. $22.99 / 92 pts Think scallops in cream sauce.
Fort Berens Small Lot Grüner Veltliner 2021 Lillooet BC VQA
Inaugural release, from estate fruit. Forward tropical and orchard fruits with floral and mineral hints, before kiwi, lemon, lime and zesty notes with a hint of classic white pepper. $24.99 / 92 pts (Gold, 2022 WineAlign National Wine Awards)
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The winery has also just announced two six-pack offerings of its WineAlign National Wine Awards Platinum and Gold medal winning wines. Order here.
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