The Tasting Menu is back. Although, truth be told, at West Restaurant it never went away.
Earlier this summer I had the opportunity to witness the artistry of West Chef Bobby Milheron in two contrasting settings. The first was at the BC Seafood Festival in Comox. The second was at the South Granville restaurant itself. There I sampled an impressive array of the chef’s current prix fixe offerings.
In Comox Milheron demonstrated true ‘grace under fire’ as he executed a series of remarkable ‘black box’ dishes.
West Restaurant chef Bobby Milheron competes at the BC Seafood Festival
The event proved hotly contested and of the highest calibre. However, the chef convincingly beat out his 12 peers to eventually win a cliffhanger final. Milheron’s outstanding, off the cuff dishes ran the gamut. They included an Albacore tuna and Side Stripe shrimp Roll, and olive oil poached Halibut with Manila clams.
Geoduck clam and swimming scallops chowder
But it was his Geoduck Clam and Swimming Scallops chowder that nailed down the big prize.
Milheron’s show of skills in Comox underscored the attention to detail that go into all his dishes. Currently there’s still time to sample his $39 three-course Summer Prix Fixe menu. It runs until September 22nd.
West Restaurant cucumber and almond gazpacho
In addition to some wickedly delicious tastes, such attention to sourcing, precision on the plate and polished service all add up to extraordinary value.
West Restaurant roasted beef tenderloin, Port Neuf potato, confit, tomato, sauce Béarnaise.
In short order, the Fall menu kicks in on September 23rd.
West: Forging a local culture
West has always been true to its founding principals of ‘regional and seasonal.’ Not only did that mantra place it firmly on the map. It kindled a passion of working with local producers that help seed our culinary culture.
West Restaurant heirloom taomato, avocado, smoked tomato vinaigrette, watercress
Some of us recall the days when West (under opener David Hawksworth) and Rob Feenie’s Lumière used to duke it out annually for VanMag’s coveted Restaurant of the Year award.
West Restaurant Albacore tuna, crushed potato, olive tapenade, green chermoula
Through his prix fixe menus (and definitive chef’s tasting menu), Milheron sustains that tradition of working with close-by fishers, farmers, ranchers and foragers. West’s raison d’être continues to be driven by a cornucopia of ‘peak of season,’ regional ingredients.
Last course!
Impeccable served Guanaja chocolate soufflé with vanilla crème anglaise.
West Restaurant, 2881 Granville Street, Vancouver, BC,
604-738-8938 / westrestaurant.com
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