Row Fourteen is the newest addition to Similkameen’s already blossoming scene. And it’s a worthy one at that.
Last week I drove to Kelowna to judge at this year’s BC Lieutenant Governor Wine Awards—and stopped off in Cawston on the return trip. (My preference is always for Hwy. 3, so it was an easy detour.)
I’ve been watching the Similkameen’s progress for a while now. In just over a decade this gorgeous valley has come into its own. There’s no shortage of excellent wineries to visit. Among them are Clos du Soleil, Corcelettes, Robin Ridge, Little Farm, Orofino, Seven Stones and Vanessa Vineyards. You can also find some good bites in Keremeos, including at Tree to Me, on the road to Kaleden.
In the heart of the Similkameen …
However, just opened Row Fourteen raises the bar. The brainchild of Kevin and Annamarie Klippenstein, it’s now the anchor of Klippers Organics. (The Klippensteins still divide their time between Cawston and Vancouver, where they sell their organic produce at Trout Lake and West End farmers markets.)
Row Fourteen: A Well Crafted Room
Very much a destination, the room is beautifully conceived and executed. And it brings a whole new dimension to this emerging area.
Walk in at midday and you’re immediately struck by the sense of space, bathed in natural light. At night I’m guessing it glows, with all that natural wood. The look is ‘country sophisticate’—soaring ceiling, cedar beams and acres of wood. Full height windows look onto the patio, bringing in the orchards beyond.
Row Fourteen patio and orchard views
Row Fourteen is also the region’s first cider driven room. Hence its entrance is highlighted by a cider tasting bar.
Untangled Taps
On tap is a range of Klippers’ Untangled Craft Cider, while bottled product is also for off-sale.
Untangled bottles
The focus of the main room is its open kitchen, ruled by a wood-fired grill. They burn applewood (for flavour) and fir (for heat). When I visited, a string of peppers was roasting up top.
Row Fourteen’s wood- fired hearth and grill
In fact, cChances are you’ll smell the smoke even before you arrive at the restaurant. No doubt in winter it will contribute to an even more welcoming arrival.
Row Fourteen Kitchen
Chef Derek Gray (ex Savio Volpe, Pepino’s, in Vancouver) brings a strong background. Here his menu takes full advantage of the wealth of local organic ingredients. (Cawston and the Similkameen Valley enjoy the highest percentage of organic producers in Canada).
Row Fourteen Ancient Grains
I didn’t have time to sample a lot on this visit. But based on the plate of ancient grains enjoyed, I can’t wait to return. The contrasting assortment of barley, lentil, farro and Marquis wheat berry with pumpkin seeds, fire-roasted squash and chanterelles was downright delicious. Nor could I really indulge as I had to hop back into my sporty, gas sipping Honda Coupe (Thanks, Honda!). However, the crisp and nicely balanced Newtown was a good match. Next time I’ll do at least a flight.
Also of note, Row Fourteen wine list highlights several Similkameen wineries. No doubt it will expand to include more in time. I’m guessing with a few tweaks to the current rules it could become a de facto tasting room.
I love the coming together here of so many aspects of Similkameen’s culinary culture. From the ciders to the wines and the organically driven menu, it’s all here.
Row Fourteen is a great spot at which to break your trip to the Okanagan. But it’s also the perfect place at which to arrive—and stay. Maybe even check in to one of their suites and explore Similkameen to the fullest.
Details:
Row Fourteen Restaurant at Klippers
725 Mackenzie Road, Cawston, BC, Canada
(250) 499-0758
Open: 11:00am – 2:00pm; 5:00pm – 9:00pm
Closed end December through mid February
This post made possible in part by Honda Canada
Honda Coupe 2019 at Corcelettes Estate Winery
I am so excited to see Row 14, chef Derek and the lovely Klippers family get some coverage from you. Town Hall Brands is very proud to have done the logos and worked with the team before opening.