A sure sign this year’s Vancouver International Wine Festival is right around the corner is the media preview. Last week’s tasting of wines to be featured at various events was the perfect warm-up for the Feb 23 to March 3 festival. The 37 globe trotting offerings, poured in Blue Water Cafe’s beautifully appointed cellar room, delivered a strong message as to just what VIWF is all about.
California’s Time to Shine
This year’s lineup of 54 events and International Festival Tastings puts California firmly in the spotlight. The expansive Convention Centre West hall will be home to 160 wineries (from 15 countries). Fifty three from California will have their own dedicated section, against breathtaking harbour mountain views. It’s a worthy way to celebrate the festival‘s 41st year, in that the very first (then Vancouver Playhouse Wine) Wine Festival featured just one producer: Robert Mondavi Winery.
If you’ve been around long enough to recall those early festivals you’ll know just how much California has helped shape our wine market. Not only that but a few folks from ‘down south’ played pivotal roles in building BC’s own, neophyte industry. What’s more, a good portion of today’s viticultural talent owes its expertise to UC Davis’ Winemaking Program. Considering the strong ties between BC and California, it’s somewhat ironic that this year’s event is playing out against the backdrop of a dispute over access to BC grocery store shelves.
The California lineup here underscored the remarkable range of wines produced by the Golden State in its several wine regions. On offer at the festival will be everything from the very best of Napa, Sonoma and elsewhere to a plethora of good value California labels for everyday drinking.
Fancy a Free Tasting Room Ticket?
I’ll be posting plenty more on the festival, including suggestions on how to make the most of your time in the International Festival Tastings. What to taste, who to meet, and where to find them—an how to easily buy what you discover. Full festival details here.
In the meantime, if you haven’t yet purchased your tickets, you might just want to check into the VIWF promo with Stay Vancouver Hotels. It’s a great deal, that bundles a room night with a free International Festival Tasting Ticket. The freebie is offered by numerous downtown hotels on the nights of Feb 28, March 1 & 2) and has a value of between $84 and $109, depending on when you book.
Image courtesy of Listel Hotel, Vancouver
Participating hotels range from full-on luxury four star properties to not so basic budget options. Dig around the site for some rates that are pretty appealing.
Here’s another way you might be able to score a couple of free tasting room tix… Subscribe to this site for a chance to win a pair of International Festival Tasting tickets. I’ll be giving away two pairs, courtesy of Vancouver International Wine Festival.
Here are my highlights from the preview tasting. There was no shortage of decent drops—and I could have included several more—but these made the cut. Book the event in question or add the wines marked ‘‘IFT’ to your ‘must taste’ list in preparation for your festival visit.
Robert Mondavi Winery Fumé Blanc Reserve 2016 (Napa Valley)
This seemed to be a fitting first taste for many reasons. None the least of which is that the late Robert Mondavi was the first to develop this style as a way to make Sauvignon Blanc more appealing to the American consumer. That was well before the Kiwi Sauvignon Blanc tsunami. Back in the day it was our go-to for cracked Dungeness and butter. Today’s version is more gently oaked, with lifted citrus notes, tropical hints, a touch of mineral and a crisp close. Grown in the historic To Kalon Vineyard. 92 pts. (est. $40)
At RMW: A Visionary Journey, Feb 28 (Taste the ‘regular’ FB in the IFT.)
Wente Riva Ranch Chardonnay Arroyo Seco (Monterey)
Another landmark, this single vineyard Chardonnay is a big part of the Wente story, which is inextricably intertwined with California Chardonnay. One of California’s oldest wineries (established in Livermore in 1883) Wente planted its first Monterey vineyards in 1962. Textbook Chardonnay, nicely balanced with generous fruit and well managed oak beneath apple and citrus with good mouthfeel and a lengthy end. 91 pts. ($30)
IFT, at California Crush (Feb 28) and The Shape of Wine (March 2)
Klinker Brick Old Ghost Zinfandel 2015 (Lodi)
Klinker Brick is very much the face of the new Lodi, a far change from when it was known for its bulk wines. (There was a time when plenty of good Lodi fruit used to wind up in Napa.) Californians love their Zins and this is one Zin well worth a taste—made from low yielding, truly old vines. It reminds me of those character-driven ‘old style’ Zins, many of which have disappeared or are now made in a more commercial style. There’s also a great story behind the first vintage of Old Ghost and why it came to be so named. Vibrant red and black fruit on top with superb structure, mulberry, black pepper and anise notes wrapped in juicy acidity with excellent length. A ‘must taste,’ for sure. I’m very much looking forward to trying their other wines. $75.99 93 pts.
IFT and Zinfandel on the World Stage, March 1
Freemark Abbey Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2015
With roots that go back to 1886, here’s another long established California winery and veritable Napa icon. Blue and black fruit on top, followed by a plush ‘n plummy, generous, well balanced palate. Complex layers amid flavours of blackberry, dark chocolate clove and other spices underpinned by approachable tannins and measured oak. $53.99 92 pts.
IFT (under Jackson Family Wines) and The Icons of Napa Valley, Mar 1
Rest of the World
Vancouver International Wine Festival enjoys a well earned reputation for being among the best of its kind. One of the reasons is that it requires a principal from the winery (or senior export person) to be at the booth. This way you can chat with the people who have the most hands on experience with the winery. My picks below underscore the scope of the festival, with some lesser know wines from different regions well worth checking out!
Yalumba Eden Valley Viognier 2017
A worthy reminder that Viognier’s current popular ascent was started by none other than Yalumba, who first planted the variety in 1980. No surprise, textbook Viognier, with orange blossom on top and a burst of juicy stone fruit and apricot on the juicy, mouth-filling and seductive palate.
Pica kitchen Party March 2
Avanzi / Cantine Romantica DOCG Franciacorte Brut Saten N/V (Italy)
Italian 100 percent sparkling Chardonnay, made on the shores of stunningly beautiful Lake Garda, hand riddled and aged on lees for 26 months. Lively bubbles, a good mousse with hints of white flower and dried orchard fruits. Decanter explains Saten as follows:
“Satèn, meaning ‘silk’ in Italian, is unique to the Franciacorta region, and its come-hither style gives it the opportunity to stand out in a crowded wine market. Always produced from Chardonnay, Satèn is unlike other sparkling wines made in Franciacorta – or Champagne for that matter – as it has less pressure in the bottle: five bars compared with six. In order to achieve this, producers add less sugar in the liqueur de tirage: 18-20grams/litre as opposed to 24g/l for fully sparkling wines.”
$43.79 90 pts.
IFT, Bacchanalia Gala Dinner & Auction
Besigheim Schloss Riesling 2015 (Germany)
From one of Germany’s largest cooperatives. This crisp and clean Riesling yields lifted citrus and stone fruit, good acidity with some mineral and petrol hints through a refreshing close. Good value at $20.29 – 90 pts
IFT German Food & German Wine, Feb 27
Cono Sur Viento Mar Block 21 Pinot Noir 2016 (San Antonio, Chile)
Aptly named single vineyard Viento Mar (meaning ‘sea breeze’) in deference to its windy, coastal provenance. Part of Cono Sur’s ongoing specialized Pinot program. It’s a significant step up from their everyday wines—but still offers excellent value. Up front cherry and spice notes with a juicy, nicely balanced palate of plush strawberry and red berry notes wrapped in well structured but approachable tannins with a slight savoury edge. $23 | 91 pts.
Just Chill, Feb 27
Painted Rock Cabernet Franc 2015 (Okanagan Valley, Canada).
From this Okanagan pacesetter (who now sells their wine in Bordeaux) comes one of the best examples of BC Cab Franc. Forward notes of vibrant red and black berries before a well structured palate. An opulent mouthfeel, mulberry and cassis notes with mocha and spice hints, marries impeccably with firm but in check tannins. Well managed French oak before a lingering close. $45 93 pts
IFT Trade tastings, Artisan Evening of Food & Wine, Feb 26 (Sold out)
Coronica Gran Malvasia 2016 (Istria, Croatia)
Slowly but surely, some very interesting Croatian drops are making it out to BC. From a family that hails from four generations of winemaking on Croatia’s northwest coast, this is certainly one. Up front floral and stonefruit notes before a focused and keen palate. Schist notes and a keen edge, crisp and dry with an expressive leesy and mineral character through the finish. Another must taste! $39.99 91 pts.
IFT, Bacchanalia Gala, A Taste of Croatia, Grapes Unknown
Lake Breeze Roussanne 2017 (Okanagan Valley, Canada)
I’m a long time fan of Lake Breeze winemaker Garron Elmes for his inclination towards less common varieties. Here’s another reason why. Lifted orchard fruits and floral notes, with a vibrant peach and citrus toned palate. Supported by balanced acidity through a textured and persistent end. Yup. I could live without the new label design. $28 – 91 pts.
IFT, Rhone Around the World, Vintners’ Brunch
Okanagan Crush Pad Free Form Ancient Method 2017. (Okanagan Valley).
Made with 100 Garnet Valley Pinot Noir from now fully certified organic Okanagan Crush Pad. This is a sign of good things to come from OCP’s stunning new, higher elevation vineyard. (From my Quench review) Whole bunch pressed and native yeast fermented in large concrete tanks, finished fermentation in bottle and disgorged with zero dosage. Good mousse and persistent lively bubbles. Very pure fruit flavours with orchard fruit and stony aromas. A leesy, well textured palate of apple and zesty notes with some almond hints underpinned by a streak of minerality. $34.90 92 pts.
IFT, Truth in Terroir, March 1
Liliac Feteasca Neagra 2016 (Lechinta, Transylvania, Romania)
Long surpressed and bulk driven under the Cecescau dictatorship, the Romanian wine industry is being revitalized and rediscovered. Up front red berries with some earthy hints before a medium bodied palate with plum and cherry notes over balanced tannins. For better or worse, Count Dracula still exerts considerable influence in Transylvania. Yes, that is a bat on the label. $32 89 pts
IFT, Grapes Unknown Feb 28
Caneval Extra Dry Prosecco Superiore Valdobbiadene DOCG
Here’s why you should be upping your Prosecco game. Lively bubbles with a persistent mousse with orchard and floral notes up front before a refreshing apple and citrus palate. A touch of acidity, decent structure and good length. One of several being poured to show a full range of Prosecco Superiore at the Caneval / Masi booth. $27.29 91 pts
IFT, The Heart of Valdobbiadene Feb 26, Just Chill Feb 27
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Don’t forget to subscribe to this site for a chance to win a pair of International Festival Tasting tickets. I’ll be giving away two pairs, courtesy of Vancouver International Wine Festival.
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