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Next time you’re pondering Prosecco, do yourself a favour. Pick up a bottle of Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG. For just a few dollars more you’ll be pleasantly surprised—and well rewarded. There’s no arguing with Prosecco’s remarkable success, aided in no small way by the Brits and their love of ‘Fizz.’ But now that everyone has jumped on the Prosecco bandwagon, you might want to be a tad more discriminating.
It pays to understand that not all Proseccos are created equal.
Yes, there’s no shortage of good, quaffable bubbly—the kind that adds up to the perfect breakfast wine. The kind you can pop into a Mimosa without a second thought. According to Drinks Business, the 2018 harvest is expected to produce almost 500 million bottles of Prosecco DOC. Which should keep the Brits happy for a while, Brexit or no.
However, more ‘serious’ Prosecco Superiore displays a distinctive style and quality—for many reasons.
Prosecco DOC wines come from the broader regions of the Veneto and Friuli at large. But Prosecco Superiore DOCG wines can come only from a smaller region that includes vineyards in and around Valdobbiadene and Conegliano. In 2018 this higher quality DOCG wine could add up to nearly 90 million bottles. That’s a relatively small number, compared to DOC production of five times that amount.
Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG comes from the hilly Conegliano Valdobbiadene zone. Then, some DOCG wines further fall into two sub zones. DOCG “Rive” wines are grown on the most precipitous slopes and come from a single commune. There are 43 Rive in total. DOCG Superiore di Cartizze comes from a tiny area within Valdobbiadene of just 107 ha.
Prosecco Superiore: a long history
Steep, hilly slopes and narrow valleys are the norm
The origins of Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG date back many generations. Its history can be traced to three centuries ago, with the first written reference in 1772. ‘Prosecco’ was first made from grapes, grown on the steep slopes, close to the Alps, in north-eastern Italy. The principal variety is Glera. And the soils that define Prosecco Superiore vineyards are unique. Packed with fossils and shells, they’re proof that the area was once covered by ocean. They are, indeed, ancient, with one area benefitting from further from glacial deposits from the Dolomites.
The soils
Each micro region sports its own character. Conegliano soils have more clay, alluvial and glacial deposits. Valdobbiadene’s contain more sandstone and marl, yielding more fruity and floral notes. The marl and white sandstone of the Cartizze hills tiny, 107 ha. sub-zone yield more floral, aromatic herb and mineral characteristics.
The grapes
Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG must contain at least 85% Glera. Also permited is no more than 15 percent of local, indigenous varieties: Verdiso, Bianchetta, Perera and Glera Lunga.
A unique, historic terroir
A funicular makes harvesting (a little) easier
Technology and mechanization have enabled excellent quality in the bottle. But the land itself has hardly changed at all. The majority of vineyards are still hand-farmed and hand-harvested. They have to be, as the average slope is 45 degrees—and as steep as 70 degrees in some parts. Small bins (and even a funicular) make harvesting a little easier, though not much. For sure, Prosecco Superiore is more challenging to produce than its more common cousin. But also is well worth the effort.
Perfect for pairing
Hailed for their subtlety, Conegliano Valdobbiadene wines suit a wide range of flavours. Prosecco Superiore falls into three styles, from ‘Brut’ to ‘medium’ and ‘off-dry.’
• The crisp, often citrus characters of Brut wines (0-12 rs. g/l) make them ideal for lighter appetizers and seafood.
• Extra Dry (12-17 rs. g/l) wines often sport more orchard fruits and floral notes. They make for an excellent aperitif, and also go well with lighter pasta, and chicken dishes.
• ‘Dry’ wines, at 17-32 rs. g/l, are actually the most off-dry. Best served cooler, at around 6 C., they’re a great match for moderately spiced Asian plates, or less sweet pastries and milder blue cheeses.
However, that range is now even broader thanks to the introduction of two drier styles for the 2019 vintage. “Sui Lieviti” (“On the Lees/Yeasts”) are sparkling wines which are re-fermented in bottle. It’s a welcome nod to the traditional way of making wines in the area. “Extra Brut” (residual sugar between 0 and 6 gr/lt.) tends to allow the mineral aspect to show through and is gaining in popularity, especially for food pairings.
A truly local endeavour
Making Prosecco Superiore is a way of life, with almost all of the wineries in Conegliano Valdobbiadene owned and operated by “locals”—people truly from the region, over generations. It’s that added dimension of ‘terroir’ that completes the picture.
Here are some highlights (highest scores) from our tasting last month in Vancouver.
La Tordera
Brut Zero Otreval Rive di Guia 2017
Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG
Fruity and floral notes up front with an appealingly fresh palate, well defined palate with a mineral and chalky edge with good length to close. (0 g/l) 91 pts.
Cantine Vedova
Brut Nebbia Rive di San Pietro di Barbozza 2017
Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG
A stream of fine bubbles floral aromas followed by excellent texture and mouthfeel with lingering mineral hints prevalent, creamy and well structured palate with good acidity, lingering stony notes. (9 g/l) 92 pts.
Sommariva
Rive di San Michele 2017
Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG Extra Dry
Well structured with fresh and floral profile, quite generous but well balanced palate, good intensity with lingering green apple and fresh acidity in the close. (14 g/l) BCLS $22.99, (LTO $18.97 to Nov 24) 92 pts.
Bortolomiol
‘Prior’ Brut Millesimato 2017
Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG
Sustainable production. Fine bubbles, more understated floral, citrus and orchard fruits on the nose, a crisp entry followed by a well textured and quite creamy palate with generous finish. (8 g/l) 91 pts.
Sorelle Bronca
Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG
Brut Particella 68
Orchard and floral notes with Acacia hints, quite full bodied and textured, with citrus elements, generous mouthfeel, moderate acidity and good length. (9 g/l) 91 pts.
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