BC Bubble is on a roll. There’s nothing really surprising about that in itself. But what is curious is why it’s taken so long. I’ve been thinking about (and tasting) a lot of BC sparklers recently. Often as not with a toast to Harry McWatters—the godfather of BC Bubble.
The 21 bottle ‘sabre salute’ at Harry’s moving Celebration of Life was unique. 21 of us lined up and, on cue, sabred our bottles one by one. The BC Bubble of choice, naturally, was McWatters’ own, recently released, Time Brut. It was quite the production, requiring careful organisation. Of note, the trajectory of the sabred tops was carefully planned. No unsuspecting bystanders at the neighbouring Peach Festival were in danger. It was something to behold!
Harry McWatters
Afterwards, a gentleman asked me about the origin of sabering. I told him I thought it dated back to the Napoleonic Wars. French hussars would use their sabres to open bottles of Champagne to save dismounting.
It was no doubt convenient, even if not particularly safe. I hasten to add that each of the bottles we sabered had been ‘stilled and chilled’ at least for several hours. They even remained on ice until the last minute at the Penticton Lakeside’s outdoor deck.
It’s all in the ‘prep’
While some folks ;-) purchased a case of Time Brut ‘for practice,’ I didn’t. I actually hadn’t sabred anything for 20 years or more. But I reckon it’s a bit like riding a bicycle. Once you’ve done it a few times you don’t forget. Also, when you’ve seen how it can (occasionally) go wrong you gain a whole lot more respect for the process.
The main thing is: the bottle needs to be properly prepared, and the wire cage taken off. Ultimately it’s about where you make precise and clean contact. And it’s about the choice of weapon.
The trusty garden machete I’d carefully placed in our trunk was somehow left behind. Luckily, the folks at Meyer Family Vineyard lent me their elegant, purpose built sabre. It worked like a charm—first time.
I like to think Harry would have been impressed.
What could have been more appropriate as a send-off for Harry McWatters than this tribute? After all, it was Harry who put BC Bubble on the map in the first place. What’s more, as many have recently noted, one of his favourite ‘Harry-isms’ was:
“Sparkling is what you drink while deciding which wine to have with dinner.”
BC Bubble Pioneers
First came Harry with Sumac Ridge’s Steller’s Jay. It was followed by Blue Mountain and Summerhill / Cipes. All pioneers who led the way, BC’s glass now truly bubbles over. There’s also an amusing (possibly even true) story to how the the original sparkler got its name. Yes, Steller’s Jay is indeed the official provincial bird. It’s also known to be cheeky, bold and voracious. And partial to devouring ripe grapes.
In fact, there was a time when farmers used to shoot them.
The winery that’s now See Ya Later Ranch started out as Le Comte Estate. It was named after Albert LeComte, who had bought it from Major Hugh Fraser. Harry once mentioned that one day Albert was trying to ‘discourage’ some Steller’s Jays—with his gun. In the process he succeeded in taking out the power line to Okanagan Falls.
The overall quality of BC sparkling is good, and getting better all the time. More wineries are making BC bubble in various forms every year. And, overall, BC seems to fare pretty well beside wines from elsewhere. Check out last year’s BCWI Judgment of BC tasting.
Here’s a ‘short’ list of some of what you can find these days. These are top scoring BC sparklers I’ve tasted in the last few months. It’s by no means intended to be a definitive ranking. My apologies for missing a few. …
As this lineup kept growing I was reminded (yet again) of the immense contribution McWatters made.
Time Winery 2018 Brut (Okanagan Valley)
Time and Evolve CEO Christa-Lee McWatters
A classic blend of Pinot Noir (55%) Chardonnay (45%). Fermented in neutral French oak, stainless steel barrels and tanks. A stream of fine bubbles and a good mousse with a touch of brioche on top, followed by a nicely textured and well balanced palate with citrus and orchard notes before a crisp, clean finish. Interestingly, this is Charmat process, although it very much leans towards a traditional method style. A wickedly good tribute to the man who started it all. 91, $34.99
Meyer Family Vineyards NV Extra Brut (Okanagan Falls)
Meyer family Vineyards
MFV’s inaugural traditional method sparkler is a labour of love, that mirrors the winery’s primary focus. Blend of Chardonnay (70%) and Pinot Noir (30%) yields a stream of fine bubbles and a persistent mousse.
Forward orchard notes with pear, green apple and touches of mineral and citrus in the finish. This wine spent extended time on lees (24 months) and now several years in bottle. It all contributes to the nicely textured palate with a creamy, lingering, mineral close. 91, $40
Blue Mountain ‘Gold Label’ Brut NV (Okanagan Falls)
Blue Mountain Estate, looking south, in spring
A classic Pinot Noir and Chardonnay blend from another pioneer who identified the potential for BC sparkling very early on. This now marks a quarter century of sparkling production. Traditional method, with a stream of fine bubbles, toasty nose and mouth-filling mousse before apple and appealing leesy notes. Refreshing, elegant restraint and balance that defines the overall house style. Still one of the “gold” standards. 91 pts. $27.95
50th Parallel Blanc de Noir 2017 (Okanagan Valley)
Curtis Krouzel and Sheri-Lee Turner Krouzel, 50th Parallel founders
From a steep, south west facing, granite laced slope overlooking Lake Okanagan, just south of Vernon. The inaugural release, in part to mark the winery’s tenth anniversary. A very sound effort from winemaker Matthew Fortuna—who’s never made sparkling wine before. Pretty, medium salmon in the glass, with a persistent mousse. Wild strawberry, floral and earthy notes up front with some mineral hints. Crisp but nicely textured with good mouthfeel through the finish. 91, $85
Maverick Estate Ella 2013 Family Reserve (South Okanagan)
Maverick owner and winemaker Bertus Albertyn
We’re a big fan of the ‘regular’, NV Ella. But this is an impressive step up. Methode Traditionelle, inaugural release of reserve sparkling. Set aside from the regular 2013 release and left six years on lees, until August 2019. Pale gold to salmon in the glass, with fine bubbles and a persistent mousse.Up front almond and brioche hints precede a superbly balanced palate of citrus and creamy notes, with definite Pinot notes, through a well textured finish. 94, $52
Okanagan Crush Pad Narrative Ancient Method 2017.
Okanagan Crush Pad’s organic certified vineyard Garnet Valley Ranch, Summerland, in spring
OCP has become a trailblazer in many areas. Not the least is its prominence as a sparkling wine producer.
From the winery’s now certified organic Garnet Valley Ranch Vineyard, comes this truly natural (unfined and unfiltered) 100 percent Pinot Noir. Fine bubbles, a creamy and persistent mousse with orchard notes on top, followed by lively apple and citrus with a firm streak of minerality through the core. 91, $34.90
Haywire Bub 2016 (Okanagan Valley)
Fruit from Secrest, a flat south-west facing bench in a high mountain setting, 487 meters (1,600 feet) above sea level. Alluvial soils of coarse gravel and sandy loan with limestone layers. 36 months on lees.
Fine bubbles and persistent mousse, vibrant citrus and orchard fruit aromas carry through to lively lemon and lime notes on the palate, supported by bright, unapologetic acidity with mineral notes through the crisp, clean end. 91, $29.90
Fitz Blanc de Noir 2015 (Okanagan Valley)
Gordon Fitzpatrick: a focus on sparkling
Fitzpatrick Family Vineyards is one of just two Okanagan Valley dedicated sparkling wine estates. (The other being Bella.) Because it’s tucked under the west side mountains of Lake Okanagan the sun leaves earlier than across the lake. That makes it an ideal sparkling site.
A lively stream of fine bubbles with a good mousse. Citrus and nutty notes on top followed by a mouth-filling palate of dark cherry and citrus. Excellent depth and texture, definite ‘pinosity’ and good length with juicy acidity. Lingering cherry chocolate and zest in the finish. 100 percent Pinot Noir, 36 months on lees. One of the best from Fitzpatrick to date, it continues to evolve. 93, $35
Oh, and just because… here’s the amazing view north from Fitzpatrick’s patio. It’s also about the same the other way.
Tantalus Vineyards Old Vines Riesling Brut 2016 (Okanagan Valley)
David Paterson, winemaker, Tantalus Vineyards
From just a few rows on the estate that date from the original 1978 heritage ‘Block 5’ plantings.
Indeed, this wine highlights the vision behind Tantalus’s predecessor, Pinot Reach. The late Den Dulik saw the potential for Riesling on this storied site. Lively, fine bubbles with a solid mousse. Up front orchard and citrus with hints of brioche before a textured and precise palate. An excellent expression of the variety—and a flagship BC Bubble. 92, $35
Township 7 Seven Stars Polaris 2016 (Okanagan Valley)
Traditional method blanc de blanc, 100 percent Chardonnay. A stream of fine bubbles and gentle mousse, aromas of brioche and orchard fruits. Followed by a well structured palate of citrus, green apple and stone fruit. Generous but still lean mouthfeel underpinned by excellent acidity through a lingering finish.
Look also for their other sparklers. Better still, join their wine club for early access and some excellent discounts. 92, $35.97
Noble Ridge The One 2015 (Okanagan Falls)
Noble Ridge celebrates the harvest by inviting its wine club members to do a little picking … before a sumptuous vineyard feast
A classic blend of 70 percent Chardonnay with Pinot Noir, whole cluster pressed and cold fermented, held en tirage for 28 months. A stream of fine bubbles precedes appealing toasty and brioche notes. Then a well textured palate of citrus and red berry notes underpinned by balanced acidity and a lengthy finish. A consistent winner in competitions, it’s easy to see why. 92, $39.99
JoieFarm Quotidien Brut 2018 (Okanagan Valley)
A refreshing, delightfully effervescent Charmat method sparkler. A blend of Riesling (70%) and Chardonnay (30%), presents with a persistent and lively mousse before a crisp, mouth-filling palate. Citrus and tropical flavours wrapped in bright acidity through a gently toasty finish. 91, $24.26
Singletree Merryfield Brut 2016 (Fraser Valley)
This well crafted traditional method sparkler is a 50/50 blend of Mount Lehman estate grown Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. 24 months spent on lees helped deliver the more textured mouthfeel.
It sports a lively mousse plus a ton of everlasting bubbles that keep going through the citrus toned palate and crisp, lengthy, zesty close with a touch of biscuit. A sign of more good sparkling things to come from the Fraser Valley, which should be making a whole lot more sparkling than it presently is. 92 pts. $34.70
Blue Grouse Sparkling Paula 2014 (Vancouver Island)
Blue Grouse winery
Estate grown grown Müller-Thurgau (42.5%) and Ortega (42.5%) blended with Okanagan Valley Pinot Auxerrois (10%) and Riesling (5%). Traditional method with no dosage. Hints of brioche and citrus with crisp apple and citrus. Well textured with balanced acidity through a gently zesty end. This hallmark sparkler offers a strong indicator as to why there could be more in the Island’s future. 91, $25
Stag’s Hollow co-founder Larry Gerelus
Here’s a fun BC Bubble with a twist.
This blend of 47% Orange Muscat, 46% Muscat Ottonel, 7% Riesling adds up to a delightful sparkler that imparts floral and orange blossom and jasmine notes up front.
Persistent mousse and lively bubbles in the glass, refreshingly balanced with good acidity, pear and honey notes through a medium to off-dry close. 90, $22
Dames Brut 2017 (Okanagan Valley)
This is the first Dames sparkler and, as it turns out, the last of the Les Dames wines, the successful fund raising project launched by Mireille Sauvé in 2015. An interesting blend of 70% Riesling with 30% Pinot Blanc, all certified organic (from Sperling Vineyard). Good bubbles that keep on going. Bright aromas of apples and citrus with a hint of brioche. A bread-dough aroma allures with ripe Golden Delicious apples in the bouquet. Vibrant lemon lime notes with peach and apricot through a crisp close. Pairings? Mireille says: “Canapés such as smoked salmon crostinis, fresh oysters, virtually any fish… and, well… hot tubs.”91, $39
You can read a whole lot more about the Les Dames wines here.
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