Just a few steps from Lonsdale Quay, the remarkable evolution of Lower Lonsdale continues at a rapid pace. It seems this new community has blossomed almost overnight (well, in a few short years). However, it’s surprising so many Vancouverites don’t realize just how close to downtown this bustling North Shore mecca is.
Yet one more welcome arrival, Farina a Legna (119 East Second St.) opened its doors on September 19th. No surprise, it’s already a popular neighbourhood hotspot.
Recently invited to a hosted dinner, I took Seabus to check it out—and was struck by how much I still enjoy that short hop across the harbour. (It was even prettier coming home, late evening.)
Farina a Legna (meaning ‘Flour on Wood’) is the latest from Kitchen Table Hospitality Group. They’re the folks who’ve brought us Pizzeria Farina (Main Street), Railtown’s Ask for Luigi and Gastown’s di Beppe. And there’s a little slice of each in this happening spot, just above Esplanade, half a block east off Lonsdale. This group has developed a knack for creating authentic, classic fare served in a relaxed setting.
Locals knew this room for many years as Il Castello, North Van’s first wood-oven Neapolitan style pizzeria. It closed when owner Francesca Galasso opted to launch her now successful Holy Napoli wholesale frozen pizza dough business.
Kudos to the Farina crew for jumping at the opportunity. They’ve renovated and tweaked a bit but kept the wood fired oven that’s still the kitchen’s anchor.
You can tell a lot about a restaurant the moment you walk in. Right off the bat, Farina a Legna is devoid of any pretension and genuinely welcoming. The foyer sports family mementos from Northern Italy and the simply furnished main room (all Ste.Marie Design) has a wonderful, homey feel, ruled by the kitchen and a sit up bar on one side. Best go early, as it quickly gets busy mid evening.
Farina a Legna: a variety of classics
While centred on hand tossed pizze, Chef owner Alessandro Vianello’s menu, sports plenty of other choices, with a wide range of antipasti, insalate, pasta and dolce. Not to mention some serious wood-fired specialties, such as a 16 oz. ribeye.
The oven here is kept a little cooler—a ‘mere’ 600 C—as opposed to the more usual 900 C for Napolitana. The result is a slightly lighter crust. I liked the texture. It’s easy to chew and with no burnt elements.
Pizza Calabrese, with fior di latte, niçoise olives and oregano
If pizza is your main intention you can’t go wrong. The combos are solid and classical with a very traditional feel. Plus, everything arrives nicely hot, and cleanly sliced—as it should. I’d happily go back for the Calabrese—and for the next one, for that matter.
Boscaiola: a tasty combination
The boscaiola yielded plenty of firm flavours, with lots of prosciutto, mushrooms, peas, parmesan and mozzarella, which held together nicely.
The wine and cocktail list is short and sweet. No problem there, although the house wine glasses are basic Italian bistro—small and stubby—style unless you opt for a bottle, where the wine merits a decent bowl. They do work just fine for the housemade aperitivi like biciclettas and negronis. For me, though, even a budget wine can be transformed by the semblance of a bowl. Just saying. It’s not a wine snob thing.
Burrata Caprese—a showstopper
Right off the top we were impressed by a simply delicious burrata Caprese, with roasted squash, basil and pistachio pesto. The textures were perfect and the flavours intensely satisfying.
Also delicious was a radicchio salad (shown top of page), with pine nuts and anchovy dressing. Roasted grapes and Parmesan crumbles made this an interesting dish of sweet and sharp contrasts.
Another tasty offering: perfectly textured handmade ravioli, with a ricotta and mortadella filling, white wine cream, prosciutto cotto and Parmigiano Reggiano.
Desserts are classic and also rate highly. Guaranteed you’ll be heading back for more Tiramisu, which is gossamer light, or mildly addictive flourless chocolate cake with olive oil and hazelnut cream, sprinkled with sea salt.
Chef Vianello (whose family originally hails from Northern Italy) is thrilled to be back in the neighbourhood where he spent some of his childhood years.
From the release:
“I’m excited to bring some longtime menu favourites from our Main Street location to a North Shore neighbourhood that’s very familiar to me and also add a new, wood-fired flavour to the Farina menu.”
Without question, Farina a Legna is a great addition to Lower Lonsdale’s growing list of options.
***
Farina a Legna, 119 2nd Street East, North Vancouver
604-980-3300
Open from 5 p.m. Wednesday to Saturday; late night happy hour from 9 p.m.
Small street-side patio in season. Pricing moderate.
www.pizzeriafarina.com/northvan
Hi Tim. Was thinking your idea to take the seabus over sounds very nice, and I might get someone to come with me! Checked out the menu and there doesn’t seem to be pasta on it. Do you think that is a snafu?
Hi Sharon. That is strange. There’s definitely pasta… all the classics, plus Gluten Free available. Thanks for checking. I’ll pass it on.