Blue Grouse Estate Winery, Cowichan Valley.
I’ll confess I’m not a great judge of time. Even so, it still took me by surprise that a decade has flown by since the Brunner family bought Blue Grouse. To be fair, it was actually in 2015 that the team unveiled new (soon to be destination) winery, which they’d purchased in 2012.
It was already an impressive moment. In fact we were amazed by the scale of investment—in an ‘Island’ winery at that. Now, a decade since the family took over, it’s rewarding to see the depth and scope of their efforts come to fruition. Blue Grouse has emerged as an anchor. It’s one of a handful of destination Island wineries.
A Cowichan trailblazer
You can read about the Blue Grouse early days here. There’s no doubt that pioneers Hans and Evangeline Kiltz had a pretty good hunch when they purchased a 15 year old vineyard in 1992. Planted in 1977 by viticulturist John Harper, it was one of a number trials initiated by the BC Ministry of Agriculture. It remains one of the oldest on Vancouver Island, with many original vines still producing.
From a trial of some 150 varieties, Hans Kiltz focused on the most successful. That offered a considerable challenge. To put it into context, Bacchus, Ortega and Siegerrebe were hardly well-known varieties. Nor were they names that exactly rolled off the tongue. Besides, back then all most consumers cared about was California Chardonnay, preferably with a big dollop of oak. But thanks to the efforts of visionaries like Kiltz (supported by folks like Sooke Harbour House’s Sinclair Philip) the Cowichan’s potential emerged. With it came a far better understanding of the area’s cool climate varieties.
Blue Grouse: a new era
The Brunners: Paula, Paul and Cristina; photo Jaqueline Downey
When the Brunner Family built the new winery they respected what the Kiltz family had achieved. In fact they dedicated the second storey panoramic mezzanine in their name. Since then the Brunners have turned Blue Grouse into a major Island player.
Here’s a quick rundown on just how much things have changed.
First and foremost, there’s unswerving attention to sustainability. That smart new tasting room is more than just a pretty place. Even though there are acres of glass, the windows are carefully aligned to make the most of the seasons. Tucked under an overhang, they mitigate summer heat and help warm the building in winter. The barrel cellar and sparkling wine room is below ground. Moreover, all heating and cooling throughout the winery comes from a geothermal loop system.
Two on-site wells provide for both irrigation and potable needs. Used winery and grey water goes back into the aquifer through a series of in-ground bioreactors. Also interesting, access roads and parking areas are unpaved. That allows 5-10 percent of rainwater to soaks back into the ground back into the aquifer.
Cowichan Valley: Vancouver Island’s First Sub-GI
Blue Grouse was instrumental in building momentum for the Cowichan Valley Sub GI, approved in 2020. The real benefits will become more apparent in time. But the Sub-GI has already raised the region’s visibility compared to a few years ago.
Over the last several years the Brunner family has also invested heavily in the vineyard, with new plantings of Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Ortega, Pinot Meunier and Pinot Noir.
Also underway is a full organic transition, both in vineyard and winery, expected to complete by end of 2023. In a major expansion, the family has purchased 50 acres just north of the winery. 40 acres of plantings will focus on cool-climate whites and rosé and, in due course, also be certified organic. Currently known as Koksilah Vineyard (above), the property includes a large barn, under renovation. The new plantings combined with the existing vineyard will make Blue Grouse one of Vancouver Island’s largest estates.
Here’s what we’ve tasted recently…
Blue Grouse Estate Ortega 2021 Cowichan Valley VQA
Made from old vines planted in the 1980s with a small portion of fruit from newer plantings, all estate and organically farmed, hand-harvested and whole cluster pressed. Floral, tropical and citrus notes up front followed by luscious pear, tangerine and apricot, excellent balance of fruit and acidity, with a little more fruit forward character that reflects the much warmer vintage. 91 pts. Consistently one of the best examples of Vancouver Island’s signature white grape you’ll find.
Quill Rosé 2021 (Cowichan Valley, BC VQA)
Made from 100 percent Gamay Noir, with fruit from a longtime Cowichan grower. This wine rewards with some respectable acidity, especially considering the intense heat of the early growing season. Aromas of red berries and citrus with an earthy edge precede a juicy strawberry, cranberry and watermelon palate with a refreshing gently savoury finish. Think cheeses and cold cuts, barbecued Sockeye or just plain, lazy sippin’. 91 pts.
Quill Pinot Gris 2021 (Cowichan Valley, BC VQA)
Sourced from a trio of Cowichan Valley vineyards of contrasting local soils. Stainless steel fermented separately with one part full malo. Vibrant orchard and stone fruits up front with an apple and hint of lychee toned palate, good mouthfeel as well as a touch of spice with some lemon zest notes through the close. Poured by the glass at all Tap & Barrel locations. 91 pts.
Quill Pinot Noir 2020 BC VQA
A blend of Cowichan and Okanagan fruit, aged in French and American oak for 12 months. Lifted crushed red berries with some darker cedar and savoury notes before a cherry toned palate with some earthy and spicy hints. 89 pts.
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Drop by the winery to celebrate #TheBlueGrouchDecade with a glass of sparkling wine, for just $10. Or take advantage of a flat rate $10 shipping fee for online purchases. More info on tours and tastings here.
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