Lake Country—just north of Kelowna, BC—might seem a little bit off the beaten track. But there’s a whole lot more to this tucked-away corner of Canada’s Okanagan Valley than you might expect. In fact, a recent visit convinced me that Lake Country is very much forging its own identity—a worthy destination in its own right.
A few decades ago this steeply sloped extremity of Lake Okanagan was for the most part undiscovered. Maybe you’d wind up there if you got lost on the way to Vernon! Not so much, these days. Factors such as climate change and greatly improved viticulture have had a profound impact. Not to mention a significant influx of people and wealth that have seen this former backwater’s fortunes rise considerably.
Though now home to some major developments, with its winding roads, local artisans and just a handful of wineries, the pace is still slower here. Lake Country is a welcome—and easy—escape from busy Highway 97 just a few kms. to the east.
I had my first glimpse of the region about three decades ago. Our coach—full of skeptical, euro-centric wine buyers and other resto types—had turned the corner to head down to Gray Monk. (In those early days you had to drag people away from Vancouver to get them to even taste BC wines. Let alone buy them…)
An awestruck hush descended as the group took in the stunning panorama. The Okanagan is not lacking for breathtaking scenery. But the vista from the top of Camp Road is beyond magnificent. It’s also one of many that make a sojourn in Lake Country so worthwhile.
Lake Country’s First Winery
George and Trudy Heiss walk in their vineyard – 1970s archival
Much has changed in the 50 years or so since Gray Monk founders George and Trudy Heiss left careers as successful hairdressers to gamble everything on growing grapes—and unproven vinifera at that. The area around Gray Monk is typical of the topography that defines the valley’s northernmost sub-GI—as in Geographic Indicator. Similar to the American AVA, the term identifies a wine region having specific characteristics that set it apart. Lake Country’s Sub-GI was approved in 2022.
Lake Country Sub-GI BC Wine Authority map (click for full sized BCWA version)
From north of Kelowna to just south of Vernon a string of steep slopes and benches defines Lake Okanagan’s eastern shores. Those west-facing slopes make the most of late-day sunshine that adds up to a gradual growing season. In addition the lake (usually) moderates the cold winter temperatures.
Here the climate is cooler than ‘down south’. And, even if not as cool as it used to be, the difference in Lake Country’s harvest dates can still be two to three weeks. Years after George and Trudy Heiss opened their winery (in 1980), they launched what became BC’s biggest selling white wine of the era, ‘Latitude 50.’ It’s name paid homage to being on the northernmost edge of what was then regarded as the Okanagan’s ‘borderline’ for dependable ripening.
The Heisses planted several cool climate Germanic varieties. Some were part of the Becker project, which helped lay the vinifera foundation for today’s industry. In 2017 the family sold to Andrew Peller. The new ownership has maintained Gray Monk‘s Germanic focus, continuing many of the original vinifera including Ehrenfelser, Kerner, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Rotberger and Siegerrebe. While wine is still made here, some production now takes place at Peller-owned Sandhill, in Kelowna. If you’re not familiar with these varieties I recommend giving them a try. Aside from offering something different, lesser known grapes often over-deliver, especially when from old vine plantings such as these.
Gray Monk Winery and vineyards
With its stunning scenery—best enjoyed from The Lookout Restaurant patio—no wonder Gray Monk continues to be a prime Okanagan destination.
Stay tuned for the Heisses’ memoir, which will be published in 2025. It’s a lovely, human and often truly funny read. One that puts the challenges of establishing an estate winery in those early days very much into perspective.
Top scores: Sparkling Brut Rosé 2020 (91), Pinot Blanc 2022 (92), Lake Country Siegerrebe 2023 (92)
Close by Gray Monk, a couple of smaller wineries, emblematic of the area, are also well worth a visit.
A Swiss Inspired Gem
Fall colours in the vineyard at Arrowleaf – hiredbelly photo
Just up the hill, Arrowleaf supplied grapes to neighbouring Gray Monk for several years before opening its own winery in 2003—the second in Lake Country. Originally from Switzerland, the Zuppiger family comes from a fruit and dairy farming background. Before moving to the Okanagan Valley they farmed in Alberta.
The tasting room was designed by noted architect Robert Mackenzie (Painted Rock, Burrowing Owl, Hester Creek and others). It sports clean lines with expansive glass olong one side with a terrace that takes full advantage of the lake panorama. An attractive downstairs barrel room hosts private groups, with various tasting options offered throughout December.
Arrowleaf Petite Arvine – hiredbelly photo
Here, as at Gray Monk, the backbone of Arrowleaf’s production is Germanic cool climate varieties. They include: Pinot Auxerrois, Pinot Gris, and Bacchus, as well as Merlot and more. Most fruit is estate-grown or sourced from vineyards close by. At our tasting we were introduced to Petite Arvine, an indigenous Swiss alpine variety that makes a very appealing (and age-worthy) crisp, clean and zesty drop. Arrowleaf, which planted the variety in 2017, is the only winery in Canada to grow it. Judging from our tasting it feels right at home on Lake Country’s steep inclines. No surprise, Zweigelt also does very well here.
Over the past few years Arrowleaf has increased its production significantly, adding a unique sparkling wine as well as others. If you’re looking for somewhere for a fabulous picnic, this is the place! After tasting, you can buy an extra bottle to enjoy at a picnic table overlooking the vineyards—with that spectacular lake view!
Top scores: Riesling 2023 (93), Petite Arvine 2023 (92), Pinot Noir (93).
Perfect Pairings. Truly
Ex Nihilo Chaos Bistro patio (image courtesy of Ex Nihilo)
A little bit further up the hill, Ex Nihilo (Latin) means, literally, ‘Out of nothing’. In this case the name pays homage to the remarkable cycle of the vine, from dormancy to harvest. This delightful winery, with its barrel-themed Chaos Bistro and tasting room, nestles among vineyards which continue further up the slope.
Ex Nihilo’s (wine club only) Member’s Exclusive Sensory Tasting Experience is surely one of the best seated tastings the Okanagan offers. The bistro chef and well versed team pairs thoughtfully conceived bites with each wine poured. Standouts included Riesling with beets in apple cider and ginger vinaigrette, Pinot Noir with parsnip soup, garlic and cherry, Syrah with Yarrow Meadows duck pastrami … and more.
The winery is run by the Azhadi family and a tight knit group of long time employees—including accomplished winemaker Jim Faulkner. There’s a kind of low-key sophistication on display here. It’s all quite polished in a fun and genuinely friendly way with a local feel. In fact, be sure to check out the winery’s list of upcoming events before you go. The sensory tasting alone is worth the wine club commitment.
Top scores: Sparkling Riesling 2023 (91), Riesling 2023 (92), Cab Franc Reserve 2021 (93), Knight Bdx blend 2021 (94), Syrah 2020 (92+), Riesling icewine 2018 (94).
Social Smarts
Intrigue Wines’ Roger Wong – hiredbelly photo
A short hop north east of Gray Monk, on Okanagan Centre Road (which connects to Hwy. 97), you’ll find Intrigue Wines. Winemaker Roger Wong knows Lake Country as well as anyone. For many years, Roger made wine for Gray Monk. Long before that, he started out in the early days at Tinhorn Creek (1995), before moving to Pinot Reach (now Tantalus). Arriving at Gray Monk in 2005, he met comptroller Geri Davis. Shortly after, in 2008, they formed a partnership to establish Intrigue Wines.
With Intrigue they’ve shaped a style that combines great value in the bottle with its distinctive ‘Social’ brand packaging. The design (of bold descriptors) when launched was well ahead of its time. Not surprisingly, given his background, Roger has a penchant for Riesling. He and Geri grow it (along with other varieties) in their respective vineyards in nearby Oyama. (Roger and his wife Jillian named theirs ‘Two Wongs Make a White!) A gifted blender, Roger has a knack for making fresh tasting whites and rosés with broad appeal. Witness ‘I Do’, a non-vintage, strawberry-cranberry toned Riesling-Merlot sparkler that’s become a hit on the wedding / engagement scene.
From small beginnings of just a few hundred cases Intrigue has increased production (in a normal year) to around 21,000 cases. While the extreme cold events of the past winter greatly reduced this year’s vintage, vine death was minimal. Roger suggests that (unlike some other areas) their vines didn’t experience the sap-inducing thaw that preceded the severe cold snap. However, to bolster 2024 Intrigue was successful in finding just-harvested grapes on Vancouver Island—which they promptly ferried across the Salish Sea and drove to the Lake Country crush pad.
Roger and Geri firmly believe in making wines that are approachable and inclusive. To that end, the Social Rosé label now includes a nod to Intrigue’s very dedicated Mexican vineyard team: “Bueno Para Fiesta!”—”Perfect for Parties!”
Top scores: ‘I Do’ Sparkling Blend NV (90), Intrigue 2022 Riesling (91), Social Rosé 2022 (90)
The Peak Experience
Right next door to Intrigue—literally across a parking lot—you’ll find Peak Cellars. It started out as an ‘interim’ winery while Dennis O’Rourke developed his namesake grand scheme, also in Lake Country, a few kilometres to the north. (It’s almost ready, though not quite. See below,) Like its neighbouring wineries, Peak Cellars benefits from a strong local following, which continues to grow with the area. Peak Cellars has seven acres on its Goldie Road estate and also has access to 110 acres of Carr’s Landing estate vineyards with O’Rourke. It focuses on Riesling, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Chardonnay and Gruner Veltliner.
In the capable hands of winemaker Stephanie Stanley, Peak Cellars has evolved to become one of the valley’s most effective interpreters of site- specific Riesling and Pinot Gris, in particular but also Gewürz. Winemaker Stanley also works hand in glove with O’Rourke and was busy crushing there during our visit.
HiredBelly has awarded consistently high scores to these (now Lake Country Sub GI) wines including , tasted March 2022: Pinot Gris Glacial Till 2020 (92) Gruner Veltliner 2020 (92) Gewürztraminer Broken Granite 2020 (93) Dry Riesling Terraces 2020 (93).
Top tastes from this visit (October ‘24): Gruner Veltliner 2021 (92), Dry Riesling Terraces 2022 (93), Classic Riesling 2021 (91) and Block 11 Riesling 2021 (93).
Peak Cellars Greenhouse (supplied)
A large circular bar dominates Peak Cellar’s Garden Bistro, which grows much of its own produce on site. Here, too, you’ll find excellent cuisine (try wicked pizza from the on-site specialty oven) well matched with some pretty noteworthy wines, plus thoughtful by the glass offerings. Lunch is particularly popular, including with the boss, who drops by almost daily when possible.
Latitude de Luxe
Lake Country 50th Parallel owners Sheri-Lee-Turner-Krouzel (rt) and Curtis Krouzel with their ‘Glamour Farming’ Charmat sparkler. (hiredBelly photo)
Lake Country’s northern boundary is anchored by 50th Parallel, an impressive winery offering yet more stunning views and serious tastes. A high energycouple, Curtis and Sheri-Lee Turner-Krouzel established the winery after searching for a suitable site throughout the Okanagan. In the end they spotted a 61 acre parcel that “didn’t seem to be doing much”. Ironically, it was right across the lake from their cottage deck.
It turned out to be a gently sloped, abandoned cherry orchard, with diverse granitic soils, facing west. Working with former Quails’ Gate winemaker Grant Stanley (now GM / winemaker at Spearhead) they opted to plant Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Riesling and Pinot Noir. (Interestingly, way back in the ‘bad old days’, the land was planted to Bacchus and Riesling, for bulk wines.)
Curtis—whose Austrian forebears were winemakers—had long dreamt of building a winery. Once they closed the deal, he and Sheri-Lee went to work hand-planting much of the vineyard themselves. It was an undertaking which they celebrate today in their tongue-in-cheek ‘Glamour Farming’ sparkler.
In just a decade or so the pair have built not only the gravity-fed winery but also an award-winning restaurant, reception rooms, barrel cellar, granite lined tunnels and more.
A highlight of our Lake Country visit was a broad sampling of menu items at Block One, now a destination room.
Block One Corn Sacchetti
Top tastes: Traditional method Brut Rosé (92), Riesling 2021 (93), Chardonnay 2020 (92), Pinot Noir Estate 2022 (92).
Lake Country: in the Wings
Azhadi winery under construction (hiredBelly photo)
A couple of years prior to the pandemic, Ex Nihilo owners Mike and Janet Azhadi fell in love with a 40-acre parcel of land just north of Kelowna, near McKinley Beach. A stunningly beautiful lakeside tract and promontory, it enjoys a south to west facing slope with dramatic views across, up and down Lake Okanagan.
These days it’s a hive of activity as the Adhazis continue to build their 30,000 sq. ft. winery and cellars. Mike’s engineering and architectural backgrounds stand him in good stead for an undertaking of this scale. Already well advanced, it’s scheduled to open in fall 2025, at least for harvest on the vista wrapped crush pad, if not more.
Azhadi winery rendition
While the original projection called for a three year plan, Mike Adhazi changed the tempo somewhat to working seven days a week, tightening that period to just 21 months. The building, inspired by middle eastern structures of note, including Tehran’s famed Freedom (Azadi) tower, will be topped by its own interpretation of that landmark. It also incorporates an expansive patio and restaurant to take full advantage of the lakeside setting. Surrounding plantings include Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Riesling, with much of the production dedicated to sparkling wine.
Mike and Janet’s vision is philanthropic on many levels. They plan to contribute a portion of sales proceeds to both local and international charities. When I asked Mike how it was possible to make such a bold change in construction time he answered, quite simply: “Anticipate. Innovate. Elevate.”
Watch this space, as they say. The Azhadi winery promises to be a spectacular addition, and the southern anchor to Lake Country. What’s more, if the service levels reflect those of Ex Nihilo I’m sure it will be immensely popular.
O’Rourke Family Estate : Opening Soon
ORourke Family Estate outdoor amphitheatre
Without a doubt, the Okanagan’s biggest and most ambitious winery project to-date, construction at O’Rourke Family Estate continues at a remarkable pace. Most of the complex’s components (including a 500-seat, indoor amphitheatre) are now complete. In fact, just last week the winery pulled the wraps off its top tier, Row 188 Restaurant. The inaugural dining series (offered through December 14) sold out in a flash. But you can sign up for their newsletter to find out about the next one. (ofestate.com).
It’s a curious thing, despite its massive scale, outside of the Okanagan, this project has remained remarkably under the radar. That’s due in part to the more remote Lake Country location but also to owner Dennis O’Rourke’s unassuming public persona. Tongue in cheek, he likes to refer to himself as a ‘ditch-digger’ when discussing the $300 million (plus?) project.
Dennis O’Rourke explains tunnelling
It’s been ongoing for several years. The initial phase involved tunnelling into the hillside to build some pretty substantial cellars. O’Rourke—who made his fortune building major civil engineering infrastructures—bored the network of connecting tunnels big enough to drive a large pickup through. One leads to the winery’s private club area. Even though there’s been plenty of ‘rough’n ready’ construction the final level of detail is very much ‘a cut-above,’ with many finished materials custom-made right on site.
The main entrance and access to tiered tasting lounges (with amazing lake views) are truly impressive. As are the self-contained convention and trade show facility and outdoor amphitheatre which boasts the same stunning lake vista.
Even though the facility is technically not yet open, several exclusive events have already been held, including some with partner and neighbour Predator Ridge. One such event was a Rolls Royce launch right in the cellars. Several have been staged as fundraisers. O’Rourke gives back to the community significantly by supporting a number of charities and arts organisations, including the Kelowna Symphony.
Stay tuned for a whole lot more, and a grand opening likely sometime in 2025 (but possibly in 2026).
The winery itself has been in production for some time, although total cases (using only Lake Country fruit) are still relatively small. Nevertheless, initial bottlings have already scooped up worthy accolades, including at Chardonnay du Monde.
The focus is on Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, including a significant traditional method sparkling wine program, already laid down in cellar. Latest tastes:
O’Rourke Family Estate Chardonnay 2020 ‘Clone 96’ (93), Waiting for You Pinot Noir 2020 (91).
In summary, Riesling Redux and more
There’s no question in my mind that the seeds of Lake Country’s success were sown very early on, when George and Trudy Heiss bravely planted vinifera white varieties. Despite recent weather events this is still ‘cool climate’ country, where Germanic aromatics thrive. As do ‘Burgundian’ varieties such as Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.
It comes as no surprise that Riesling continues to do well here. Grown by the majority of Lake Country wineries, Rieslings are well on a par with those from other parts of the valley. In fact Riesling received several of my highest scores on this trip. It still truly amazes me that the variety remains a mystery to so many. No, it’s not ‘sweet’ and these days (at least in BC) is often made in a drier style. Although off-dry styles can be just as appealing.
Ask any chef about the wines they like to work with and chances are Riesling will be high on the list, if not first. Yes, it’s a serious food wine, all too often overlooked!
I’m sure that Riesling will continue to do well in Lake Country—and be recognized as one of its flagship varieties!
That said, Lake Country has a whole lot more than just (excellent!) Riesling to offer. It’s truly a stunningly beautiful spot—and well worth your time…
When you go…
A Sparkling Destination
Lake Country Sparkling Hills room with a view
Opened in 2010, Sparkling Hill Resort is an ideal base from which to explore Lake Country. Just half an hour from Kelowna International Airport, it’s a short drive to almost all of Lake Country’s wineries. The resort is perfect for relaxing post-tasting, with a wide selection of spa options. In fact fluffy bathrobes are the unofficial uniform: the dress code is relaxed. As in very spa-friendly.
Swarovsky crystal sculpture, in every room.
Rooms, offering lake or pastoral views, also feature a window-side, giant bath tub. (Don’t worry: full length curtains ensure privacy… or you can turn the lights out!) They also sport impressive crystal embellishments, with some clever lighting to go along.
The resort is surrounded by easy walking trails, most of which may be completed in under an hour. Staff are friendly across the board and very attentive. Especially in the shoulder seasons, room rates are affordable. Yet one more reason to make this your jumping off point for Lake Country wineries.
Gerni’s Farmhouse at Sparkling Hill
Not to be missed: the 16th century Gerni’s Farmhouse. Dismantled, shipped to Canada and reconstructed in Lake Country, it’s now a cosy, laid-back—and very authentic —Austrian dining room.
You don’t necessarily need to approach Lake Country from the south. When heading to the north Okanagan from Vancouver in summer we take the Coquihalla (Hwy. 5) to Merrit and Nicola, before heading across country on the Douglas Lake Ranch (now mainly paved) backroad. It meets Hwy. 97A at Falkland. From there it’s just a short drive to Sparkling Hill Resort, which on this trip was our (very convenient and pampering) base. It’s a beautiful way to go…
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A Selection of Top Lake Country Wines
On our tour (hosted by BC Wine Growers) we visited almost all of Lake Country’s wineries. Most bottle only estate fruit, although there are exceptions. Gray Monk, for example, has always used fruit from elsewhere in the valley to boost production of its bigger volume wines.
Here’s a more detailed summary of some of my best Lake Country tastes, one selection per winery…
50th Parallel Lake Country Riesling 2021
Aromas of orchard fruits, peach and apple notes, and developing petrol, before a well textured palate of baked apple and grapefruit underpinned by keen acidity with lingering zesty notes to close. 93 pts. $27
Arrowleaf Cellars Lake Country Pinot Noir 2022
Up-front red berry notes with hints of oak from nine months is used French barrels. A supple entry with definite mineral overtones and a pleasing savoury element. Structured and well balanced with good acidity. Cherry and raspberry with spice notes to close. 93 ps. $29
Ex Nihilo Cabernet Franc Reserve 2021
Okanagan Valley VQA. Vibrant red berries up front with vanilla, floral and cherry hints before a juicy, raspberry, mulberry and mocha tone, supple palate wrapped in well-integrated tannins with mineral and savoury notes to close. 93 pts.
Intrigue Classic Riesling 2022
Okanagan Valley VQA. Aromas of citrus fruits and green apple with some mineral hints. Good mouthfeel defined by juicy acidity with layers of citrus and apple, and mineral notes through a lengthy close. 91 pts. Excellent value at $21.95
Gray Monk Lake Country Siegerrebe 2023
Labelled Okanagan Valley VQA but made from estate-grown fruit, a relatively rare variety farmed almost exclusively in the north Okanagan (and Fraser Valley). Honey, orchard fruit and tropical aromas followed by a juicy apple, melon and grapefruit toned palate through a lengthy dry finish. 92 pts. $20.90 (winery only)
O’Rourke Family Estate Lake Country Clone 96 Chardonnay 2020
Orchard fruits, tropical fruit and some buttery notes on top followed by fresh green apple and pineapple balanced by well-managed oak through a generous mid-palate, with a distinctive mineral core. 93 pts.
Peak Cellars Lake Country Terraces Riesling 2022
Orchard fruits and citrus hints up with definite evolving petrol aromas; citrus zest with a saline hint on the palate, with a pleasing mineral note throughout. Vibrant, bright acidity with an excellent fruit and acid balance through the lengthy end. 93 pts. $35
Great article TimTim and so much detail! Thank you!