A Bountiful Bouquet of BC Rosé

A Bountiful Bouquet of BC Rosé for #NationalRoséDay …

Last year we dedicated our Rosé roundup to Dr. Bonnie Henry, BC’s Provincial Health Officer. Dr. Henry became a household name overnight, as she guided us through the pandemic.

Her mantra ‘Be calm, be kind and be safe’ has since been heeded by many, at home and abroad. her leadership has had a profound impact on how we’ve come through the last year. The Mary Jane shoe Fluevog made in her honour is still selling like proverbial hot cakes. And so, too, is Rosé—especially from BC.

BC rosé has not just grown up. It’s matured by leaps and bounds in just a few short years.

Here’s why it’s so exciting …

• Gone are the cloying, candy-flossed salutes that all too often popped up in the past. There exists now a remarkable range of wine styles. But that signature Okanagan acidity is perfect for rosé. And, in general—depending on the vintage—sugars are much lower.

• Some BC wineries have also taken a leaf out of Provence’s page by adopting some truly sophisticated packaging.

• Most of all, though, rosé is no longer made as an afterthought. Many or most wineries now grow grapes specifically for their Rosé.

• Appealing, too, is the growing number of saignée wines—where red juice is ‘bled’ from the tank destined for still red wines. It tends to yield much more intense flavours. Many of these wines below make for formidable food wines.

These 2020 rosés (and some from 2019) amount to some of the most impressive we’ve tasted in quite some time.

Baillie-Grohman Florence Rosé 2020 (Creston-Kootenays BC VQA)

Made from 100 percent Pinot Noir, grown on a well-drained, south-west facing slope in BC’s south eastern Creston valley. Forward, vibrant red fruit aromas with some earthy hints. A juicy, well-balanced palate with flavours of wild strawberry, rhubarb and quince. Supported by just enough mouth-watering acidity to carry the fruit well through the lengthy end. A stellar wine from another ‘emerging region.’ $21 92 pts.

Cliff & Gorge Rosé 2020 (Lillooet, BC)

Cliff and Gorge commenced planting in exactly the same week as Fort Berens, in 2009. Located at Texas Creek, approximately 100 feet higher than Fort Berens. Owner Eckhard Zeidler  admits he’s obsessed by growing only proven mildew-resistant varieties. It’s due to his ‘disdain for powdery mildew,’ he says.   Cherry and rhubarb toned, it’s an uncomplicated blend of Gamay Noir and Pinot Meunier. The  base is a Blattner cross romantically referred to as 50.25.A7. Zeidler suggests it provides the richness and acidity. A little less austere than he’d like—but still clean and refreshing. $15 89 pts.

Clos du Soleil Rosé 2020 (BC VQA Similkameen Valley)

More classically inclined Clos du Soleil’s rosé is a quintessential nod to Provence. It’s also all about site. Made from 100% Malbec, purpose-grown on a south facing sun-drenched slope in Keremeos. In the glass the wine is pale pink with floral and red fruit aromas that roam from rose petal to strawberry. The palate is fresh and lively, with cranberry, cherry and a touch of rhubarb with a touch of savoury.  It’s all very appetite whetting! A lovely dance between subtlety and surprising intensity—infinitely more nuanced but still majestic! $22.90 92 pts.

Culmina Family Estate Saignée 2020 (Golden Mile Bench BC VQA)

Here Cabernet Franc plays a leading rosé role. It’s blended with Syrah (17%), Malbec (15%), Cab Sauv (12%) and Merlot (8%). Up front red berries and stone fruits lead to a superbly balanced, complex palate. Red-currant, cherry, watermelon and quince play  through a lingering close. Also, one of the prettiest and most elegant packages. $24 93 pts

Gold Hill Cabernet Franc Rosé 2020 (Okanagan Valley BC VQA)

Made with grapes grown for the red wine program with the juice drained 12 hours after crush. Forward red berries with some herbal and earthy notes. A full-bodied rosé with generous mouthfeel, balanced acidity and alcohol kept in check. Excellent varietal character defined by cherry, cranberry and strawberry with spicy hints through the close. Think grilled meats and pasta dishes. $25.99 91 pts.

Free Form Rosé 2019 (Okanagan Valley VQA)

100 percent Osoyoos Cabernet Franc from a southeast facing site, certified organic since 2012. Fermented in concrete with full malolactic fermentation and extended lees aging. Everything comes together with generous mouthfeel and texture. Pale copper in the glass with aromas of red berries and stone fruit. A juicy palate defined by fresh fruit and balanced acidity. Strawberry and quince show through, with a little savoury undertone. $27.90 92 pts.

Mayhem Wines 2020 Rosé

Hand-harvested from high above Osoyoos. Anarchist Mountain Vineyard is one of the Okanagan’s most elevated vineyards,. Mainly Merlot with Cabernet Franc (4.5%). The grapes were gently foot stomped and aged on lees for six months. One third of the final blend aged in neutral French oak for six months. Forward wild herb and red berry aromas. The palate is intensely fruity with cranberry and strawberry flavours . The extended lees aging brings added mouthfeel. Excellent value. $20 91 pts.

Mission Hill Reserve Rosé 2020 (Okanagan Valley BC VQA) 

A blend of Pinot Noir (38%), Syrah (33%), and Merlot (29%) from Oliver and Osoyoos estate vineyards. Wild red berries up front with some earthy notes. An appealingly juicy palate of strawberry, quince, rhubarb and cherry, along with some spicy hints through the close. A definite nod to Provence, with alcohol (12.5%) kept nicely in check. $21.95 91 pts

Mt. Boucherie Modest Wine Eye of the Partridge 2020

Pinot Noir (100%), medium copper colour in the glass. Forward notes of red berries and earthy notes. Followed by a vibrant, juicy and intensely fruity palate of strawberry and nectarine. A touch of spice and some herbal notes, with generous mouthfeel supported by good acidity. c.$25 -28. Possibly find it at private wine stores. From the winery’s notes: “Oeil de Perdrix is a dry Pinot Noir Rosé wine produced in Switzerland with a history that dates back to the middle ages in champagne. Eye of the Partridge is a Rosé wine from South Cawston (which is almost as glamorous as Champagne) that is also dry and from Pinot Noir.”

Nostalgia Rosé Saignée 2020

From Oliver and Osoyoos sites, a Saignée method blend of almost equal parts Cab. Sauv. (24%), Merlot (23%) and Syrah (23%) with Malbec (17%) and Cab. Franc (13%). Medium copper colour in the glass. Up-front red berry fruits with some macerated hints. Fruitier notes of redcurrant, watermelon, strawberry and cranberry on the palate. Tempered by the more vegetal Cab Franc.  From the former Oliver Twist winery now rebranded as Nostalgia. $23.99 89 pts.

Play Estate Saignée 2020 (Okanagan Valley BC VQA).

Winemaker Stepanie Bryers says the saignée method allows her to treat the fruit very gently. A blend of Merlot (50%), Syrah (22%), Cab Franc (20%) and Malbec (8%)—from Kaleden’s Wild Horse and King vineyards.  Vibrant copper in the glass. Up-front floral and berry fruits lead to a well balanced, luscious palate of strawberry, red current and watermelon. Also beautifully packaged with unique bottle and glass stopper. 92 pts $26

Red Rooster Rosé 2020 (Okanagan Valley, BC VQA)

From various vineyards in and around Osoyoos. Made from 100 percent Malbec. Foot stomped for two to four hours. Pressed then cool fermented in a large stainless steel vat. Vibrant strawberry, cherry and watermelon. Easy sipping and refreshing with a smart new package that nicely explains the variety and its terroir. c.$20 89 pts.

Roche Rosé 2020 (Naramata Bench,BCVQA)

A blend of 92% Zweigelt and 8% Schonberger organically grown. Zweigelt is a relative rarity in BC. But it’s widely planted in Austria’s Burgenland and grown in Hungary, the Czech Republic and elsewhere. Vibrant aromas of melon and red berries before a juicy, creamy palate. Redcurrant, cranberry and watermelon with a distinctive, vinous core. The Zweigelt brings refreshing, bright acidity. Super food-friendly, too. Available from the winery ($21.95) and at better private stores. 92 pts.

Sandhill Rosé 2020 (Okanagan Valley VQA)

Fruit from Sandhill Estate in South Okanagan and from Similkameen’s Rocky Ridge. A blend of 65% Gamay Noir and 35% Merlot—sports a bold salmon mantle with a burst of vibrant red berries up front. Not shy on the palate, either, which leads with juicy strawberry, cherry and watermelon. A little savoury and a hint of orange through the lengthy end. Good value. $20 90 pts.

Sandhill Single Block Sangiovese Rosé 2020 (Okanagan Valley BC VQA)

From a small block of Sangiovese planted against a rocky bluff on the Sandhill Estate in the South Okanagan. ‘Rosato’-style, hand-harvested, only 12 barrels produced (250 cases). Pale salmon in the glass. Aromas of red berries and orchard fruits. The nuanced palate shows red currant, cherry and rhubarb with an earthy edge through the finish. Inaugural release, winery direct and available through Sandhill Small Lots Wine Club ($30) and via the special limited edition Sandhill Box with the wine and local goods ($125), purchased online. 93 pts.

Unsworth Rosé 2019 (BC VQA British Columbia).

Made from 100 percent Pinot Noir from different sites on the coast. Appealing copper tone in the glass, followed by red berry and earthy aromas. Intensely fruity but still focused palate, with excellent varietal character. Generous but still elegant mouthfeel from three months on lees. Vibrant strawberry and rhubarb notes through a lengthy finish. Very food friendly. Match with everything from strong and mild cheeses to cold cuts and grilled salmon or pork chops. $21.65 93 pts.

Winemaker’s Cut Rosé 2020 (Okanagan Valley, BC VQA)

Pretty pale copper-coral in the glass. A blend of 60% Cab Franc and 40% Syrah yields aromas of wild red berries and stone fruits . The palate is vibrant and juicy, showing strawberry, nectarine, quince and creamy notes. Textured and well-balanced, supported by good acidity with peppery notes to close. These vines are truly spoilt, serenaded by music in the vineyard. 92 pts. $24 …