Albariño: 5 Great Reasons to Embrace Rias Baixas

Updated April 30th, 2022.

This post has been updated with two new tasting notes (see below). Keep an eye out for more Albariño producers showing up on local shelves. They include: Rosal Albariño 2020 (2018 previously reviewed, below), Torres Pazo das Bruxas 2019, and Bodegas Fillaboa – Seleccion Finca Monte Alta 2017. (2015 previously reviewed, below.)

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Albariño, in the grand scheme of things, is a grape you may not have heard too much about,  In the grand scheme of things it’s one of the world’s lesser known wine varieties. However, while production remains relatively small, Albariño really punches above its weight.

Albariño is also one of those varieties that personifies from where it comes. It transports you right to Galicia. In fact there are few other parts of the world that make such a singular variety that’s such a convincing ambassador.

The more wine you taste you’ll discover that the less commercialized varieties often surprisingly reward. There are more than a few good reasons to track down this fresh-tasting Spanish white.

1. It comes from a really ‘cool’ place

Almost all of the world’s Albarino is grown in Rias Baixas, Galicia in northwest Spain—just ‘above’ Portugal. Galicia is renowned for its rugged coastline, friendly people, amazing seafood—and its Albariño. Washed by a moist, Atlantic influence, in marked contrast to most other parts of Spain, it’s a lush and fertile land. And, yes, it’s an intriguing wine region.

Rias Baixas means, literally, ‘the lower rivers’—or inlets, as the region is defined by four wide estuaries. They include the River Miño, that marks the border between Spain and Portugal. Most of the grapes are grown either within sight of or very close to the ocean. Elevations generally around 150 m. though some plantings are higher.

The marine damp flows in from nearby Cape Finisterre, one of northern Europe’s westernmost points. To thwart the moisture, traditionally, vines have been trained over giant canopies known as ‘Pergola.’

Pergola exist for another very practical reason. They allowed the family to run chickens or other livestock under the vines. High wires are anchored by granite or concrete posts (parras), because wood rots so quickly. The height improves circulation to fight mildew and also helps in ripening. (More standard trellising is used in some areas where vineyards are more protected.)

Granite is everywhere, from buildings to hedgerow walls and market crosses. That’s why it can sometimes feel more like Cornwall than Spain. It’s no coincidence that there’s more than a casual Celtic connection here. Being blown off course due north could land you in the Scilly Isles or County Kerry. And the reverse is true. There might be just a few more redheads here than  elsewhere in  Spain.

2. It’s one of the oldest known wine grapes

Albariño is renowned for its delicate floral aromas, crisp acidity and often pronounced minerality. It can also sport a gently saline quality that’s unique in its marine personality. Until recently the variety’s origins remained a mystery. For a long time Albariño was thought to have been brought to Galicia by French monks  in the 12th century. However, since the discovery of new salt flat sites with evidence of Roman and medieval winemaking it’s now considered indigenous. Scientists analyzed seeds and plant material to support their findings. The vines thrive in the moist setting, with early bud-break and early ripening. The poor, rocky soils help to control the vigour.

While grapes have been grown in Galicia for millennia the modern industry dates from 1980, when an official denomination was created specifically for Albariño. It was formalised (in 1988) to DOC Rias Baixas, after Spain joined the EU. There are now five sub-regions which grow 14 permitted varieties in all. However, Albariño rules, with more than 90 percent of plantings.

3. There’s a 50/50 chance it was made by a woman winemaker

In a world-wide industry where men still dominate about half of Rias Baixas winemakers are women. How come? Viticulture and winemaking are all part of farming that women have nurtured for years. In this largely seafaring community men were away for months at a time. It was the women who kept things going at home. That included sustaining the crops—including vines.

Las Mariscadoras Luis Seoane courtesy A Coruña Museum of Fine Arts

Galician fisherwomen (mariscadoras) have picked the local clams and cockles for centuries. And the tradition has been handed down from mother to daughter. No surprise that they’re involved in all aspects of modern viticulture and enology.

There’s also another reason. Over the last couple of decades Rias Baixas has grown from just a handful of wineries to 179. Moreover, female university enrolment in winemaking and viticulture has increased by 40%.

Rias Baixas has an extraordinary number of growers (5,500) and vineyard plots (21,285). They provide a broad foundation for the region’s co-ops. Martin Codax alone is made up of 600 growers and 2,500 plots.

Overall, women are playing more prominent roles, including commercially and in the boardroom. The last time I visited Rias Baixas it was indeed apparent. that Galicia is a refreshingly matriarchal society.

4. Albariño is a shoo-in for seafood!

When (not if!) you visit Galicia you’ll discover arguably some of the best seafood on Earth. No surprise when you consider that about 90 percent of the region is bounded by 1,500 kms. of Atlantic coastline.

The array of species is quite extraordinary. It includes Shrimp, Langoustine, Cockles, Mussels, Clams and (superb) Razor Clams, Gooseneck barnacles, Spider and Velvet crabs, Swimming scallops, and last but not least, Octopus (Pulpo). And those are just the crustaceans and bivalves. Mackerel, Sardine, Anchovy, Tuna, Seabream are among the species fished.

Albariño happens to offer the best seafood pairing of any wine around. Even more so when you discover that unique hint of salinity which makes an extra connection. In the absence of being able to travel to Galicia (at least for now), Abariño is also a great match for our own wealth of BC seafood.

5. Albariño ages beautifully

All too often the opportunity to age white is ignored. During my last visit to Rias Baixas we were lucky to taste quite a few older Albariños. But they’re generally hard to come across as the emphasis tends to be on the current vintage. However, this is changing as more producers are playing with different styles and building their libraries.  Keep an eye out for some older vintages, particularly in wines such as the Granbazan, below.

These wines—that take Albariño to the next level—are all well worth tracking down.

Veiga Naúm Albariño 2021

Grown in the traditional manner on concrete supported pergola. (Originally granite was used but is now too expensive; employed mainly for aesthetics.) The canopy height ranges between 1.8 and 2.0 metres. Picking usually requires stools and a fair degree of endurance and athleticism! This vineyard in the centre of Valle del Salnés is about 4 hectares. The wine shows the cooler vintage well. It also displays some classic saline qualities, with stonefruit, mineral, citrus and floral notes. Defined by excellent acidity with good mouthfeel and a lengthy end. A very good varietal example.  91 pts. Watch for it soon.

Bodegas Granbazan Ambar 2019, DO Rias Baixas, Galicia

Granbazan is a gravity-fed winery housed in a dramatic, neoclassical chateau-styled palace in the Salnes Valley. It’s on the central coast of Rias Baixas, just northwest of historic Pontevedra. Made from old vines Albariño, vibrant aromatics of stone fruit and tropical notes precede a lush, viscose and layered palate. Peach and apricot, with stony and shist notes—plus an element of that unique saline character to close. Perfect with octopus in spicy Galician sauce.  93 pts.  Available at Liberty Wines, also SAQ.

Bodegas Granbazan Ambar 2020, DO Rias Baixas, Galicia

Lifted floral, tropical and stonefruit with some honeyed hints. A generous palate that evolves nicely as it warms, good tension and quite viscose with peach notes and definite stony undertones, as well as the hallmark saline element. Well suited to aging.  92 pts. 

Bodegas Fillaboa Finca Monte Alto Albariño 2015, Rias Baixas, Galicia

A great example of how this variety can evolve in just a few years. From old vines (1988) on a south-facing sunny site high (150m.) above the north bank of the Minho. The site is 50 kms. inland and quite sheltered. Aged on lees for 12 months. Forward orchard fruit, tropical and citrus hints before a palate of baked apple and pear, honeyed notes, and great fruit intensity. Generously textured, well structured, buoyed by fruit and acidity in perfect balance over mineral hints through the finish. BCLS $39.99 (2017 in stock)  93 pts.

Adegas Valmiñor Davila 2018, Rias Baixas, Galicia

A blend of Albariño, Loureiro and Treixadura from O Rosal sub-region. Grown on sandy, alluvial and granitic soils close to the mouth of the River Miño. Up front floral and tropical notes with mango and pineapple flavours, plus some herbal hints and a touch of minerality. Amazing with truffle potato chips. ;-) Excellent value at BCLS $23.99 91 pts

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If you’re in BC and have never tried Albariño, I’d also suggest checking out sustainable Vina Vedra from the Paco & Lola co-op. (Not reviewed. Available at Legacy, Marquis & Everything Wine)

There’s a curiously small selection of Albariño in BC compared to what’s on offer, say, in Quebec. There the SAQ lists no less than 53 Rias Baixas Albariños. They include Martin Codax (which used to be a BC mainstay), and original DO pioneers Pazo Sonorans, along with many other leading producers. Maybe a few might wind up here. We can only hope …