9 Wicked Wines (with which) to Toast BC Wine Month.
The lifting of pandemic restrictions means it’s the perfect time to plan that long overdue visit to wine country. Spring is sprung! The vines are riz! (Well, they’re definitely waking up, anyway.) Wineries are releasing their 2021 vintage. And BC Wine Month is officially proclaimed!
“The BC wine industry represents a complex, value-added food and beverage industry that offers customers a truly unique BC experience,” says Honourable Lana Popham, Minister of Agriculture, Food and Fisheries. “Wineries were amongst the first and fastest to pivot marketing and delivery strategies to meet the challenges the global pandemic presented, and it exemplifies how leading businesses grow and evolve…”
BC Wine Month: the list
I’ll be honest. I’m not a fan of lists, especially those that by their very nature will be incomplete. How to go about picking just nine, ten or even 12 wines to celebrate BC Wine Month presents a real challenge. So there could well be just a few more here ;-) … And quite a few even not here! The truth is that there are so many good drops from which to choose.
Notebook in hand, here’s a somewhat arbitrary selection of ‘who, what, where and why’… However, in all seriousness, I did strive for a lineup that delivers a cross-section of contenders at every level. Something for everyone… So, here goes.
Arrowleaf Riesling 2020 (Okanagan Valley BC VQA)
This Lake Country stalwart has a well-earned reputation for well made, impeccably varietally true wines. (Arrowleaf started out originally as an important grower for nearby Gray Monk.) This Riesling delivers vibrant orchard fruits on the nose followed by an off-dry palate of green apple and citrus notes, with a touch of minerality wrapped in lingering juicy acidity. I’d also be very tempted to put some away for a few years, $19.10. (91 pts)
Arrowleaf terrace and view © Tim Pawsey
One way to celebrate BC Wine Month? Drop by this family owned gem with its lovely terrace and panoramic lake views. Not to mention friendly and obliging service.
Blasted Church Pinot Noir 2020 (Okanagan Valley Skaha Bench VQA)
100 percent estate grown Pinot Noir. Lifted red berries, earth and spice notes precede a muscular, quite full bodied palate. A generous mouthfeel with bing cherry, damson and cranberry flavours and a savoury finish. Supported by firm but well integrated tannins. This wine shows best in a Burgundy bowl, especially given time to fully open. 90 pts. $32
Blasted Church is busy planning new tasting experiences, with a soon to be unveiled snack menu from chef John Burke. Later this season will see unveiling of The House, home to a new tasting room—and a venue for chef Burke’s cooking demos.
. Also of note, Blasted Church was named 2021 #2 winery in BC and #3 in Canada by WineAlign.
Burrowing Owl Vineyards Merlot 2019 (Okanagan Valley BC VQA)
Aromas of red and black fruit, plummy and floral hints wrapped in vanilla. The house style leans towards the understated than some more ‘in your face’ offerings. On the plush, superbly balanced palate are complex notes of damson and dark cherry, ripe dark berries with herbs and spice and mineral undertones, supported by well-integrated and approachable tannins—all in synch and brightened by a streak of fresh acidity. Drinking very nicely now but, again, I’d be inclined to put some away for a few years. $32 (91 pts.) Also reviewed, Syrah 2019 (92), Meritage 18 (90).
Burrowing Owl is one of BC’s most sustainably driven and carbon neutral wineries. One more good reason to include them in your BC Wine Month itinerary.
Hester Creek Pinot Gris Viognier 2021 (Okanagan Valley BC VQA)
This wine surprised me as I wasn’t sure what to expect. But the fruit-driven blend of two thirds Pinot Gris to one third Viognier adds up to a lively spring fling. Due to the 2021 heat dome it was tough going for some varieties in the south, Pinot Gris among them. The vintage was one of the hottest and driest on record. And culminated in one the earliest harvests. The Viognier adds interest and a voluptuous touch. Forward citrus and orchard fruits, a juicy, apple, lime and pear palate with a hint of minerality.
A lovely sipper but also fun to pair with citrus-y salads or maybe Ceviche. $19.99 (90 pts.) Celebrate BC Wine Month at Terrafina restaurant. Or, better still, pamper yourself by booking in to one of the luxurious villas above the winery.
Narrative XC Rosé (Okanagan Valley BC VQA)
On principal, there has to be at least one bubble, no? Or maybe even two… Made from old vines Pinot Blanc in state-of-the-art Charmat tanks. There the wine spends 90 days—as in ‘XC’ in Roman numerals. Medium copper salmon in the glass with a lively stream and persistent mousse. Forward red wild berry notes lead to a strawberry raspberry palate. A little earthiness, creamy and nicely textured, with a crisp dry finish.
Think oysters on the half shell with mignonette, or something equally seductive. $23.99 (91 pts). Also, not to be overlooked, highly rated Free Form Blanc de Noir 2018 $44.99 (92 pts).
Peak Cellars Gewürztraminer (Okanagan Valley BC VQA)
I’m having a tough time not putting more Riesling in here. Especially as Peak Cellars winemaker Stephanie Stanley is doing such a great job with that variety in differing styles. But these two ‘Gews’ are also shining examples.
Broken Granite 2020 is more a nod to Alsace, with up front floral rose petal, ginger and garden herb hints. A well balanced, complex and layered, gently viscous palate with candied ginger, floral notes and underlying spice. There’s added texture here from a little judicious barrel time. This superb wine takes valley ‘Gews’ to a whole new level. 93 pts. $30
‘Classic’ Gewürztraminer 2020 is definitely more ‘classic’ BC in style, with forward floral hints and orchard fruits and just a hint of rose petal. More peach and citrus on the palate, still quite textured and generous. Added heft from a little neutral oak. 91 pts. $24
Also not to be overlooked…
Peak Cellars Grüner Veltliner 2020 (92), Pinot Gris Glacial Till 2020 (92). Also, Terraces Dry Riesling 2020 (93) and Classic Riesling 2020 (92) Block 11 Riesling 2020 (91). Oops! The Riesling snuck in there anyway!
Lake Country is about to be officially declared as the province’s newest Sub-App. So why not take time to check out Peak Cellars airy bistro and lake vista terrace? An added bonus, creative plates and smart pairings from chef Scott Geiring.
Stephanie Stanley and O’Rourke Family Estate winemaker Nikki Callaway are turning out to be a Lake Country powerhouse team. More to come on them soon. In the meantime you can find an overview of Lake Country in my Vitis piece here.
Phantom Creek Estates Kobau Cuvée 2019 (Okanagan Valley BC VQA)
Phantom Creek continues to raise the bar on Black Sage Bench. Last year the winery appointed Mark Beringer as Director of Winemaking. He’s the great-great-grandson of famed California Beringer co-founder Jacob Beringer. The director of winemaking complements a high profile international team that includes legendaries Philippe Melka and Olivier Humbrecht MW.
Despite a good start, 2019‘s late season rains and cooler temperatures proved challenging. However, October obliged with dry and sunny days that drove flavour development and acidity retention. The end result, thanks to precise vineyard management, yielded “well balanced wines with vibrant fruit characters and freshness.” Kobau vineyard on the Golden Mile Bench is cooler, with early morning sun and afternoon shade from Mount Kobau. Its complex, gravelly soils drive unique minerality.
This is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc, with Petit Verdot, Malbec, Viognier and Syrah. Look for forward, vibrant red berries and earthy hints. Followed by a precisely balanced and structured palate of mulberry, damson and spice. Accentuated by a distinctly mineral core with spice notes to close. $80 (93 pts.)
Phantom Creek large oak vats © Tim Pawsey
Also of note, Kobau Syrah 19 (91), Kobau Cabernet Franc (92), Similkameen Small Lot Chardonnay 2020 (92) and Estate Merlot 19 (91, Fall release). Full reviews to come.
Phantom Creek is surely the south valley’s impressive ‘must see’ flagship. (Read more in my Vitis piece here.) Add it to your south Okanagan BC Wine Month ‘must visit list.’ Plan for lunch at The Restaurant at Phantom Creek Estates starting April 29th. Reserve on line.
Sandhill Rosé 2021 (Okanagan Valley BC VQA)
A Blend of Merlot (about 60%) with Gamay Noir. Grapes sourced (about 50/50) from Sandhill’s Black Sage Bench and Similkameen Rocky Ridge vineyards. The Similkameen fruit, from more clay soils, has more vigour and “has more punch,” Leier says.
Minimal skin contact makes for a pale rose-gold colour. Quite delicate on the palate with strawberry and red berry fruits. Hints of pomegranate and water melon, a little juicy with soft acidity. Nicely balanced, an easy sipper and a pretty flexible food friendly drop perfect for spring picnics! BCLS $20.99 90 pts. The elegant bottle is a subtle nod to Provence’s ‘bowling pin’ style. One more good way to mark BC Wine Month!
Township 7 Chardonnay
Township 7 divides its still wines into two categories, the Provenance and Benchmark series. Fruit for the former Chardonnay 2019 comes mainly from an eastern slope in Oliver with gravelly and sandy loam. The latter, reserve wine (2020), uses grapes from Naramata as well as prime Oliver sites.
Township 7 Provenance Series Chardonnay 2019 BC VQA Okanagan Valley
Forward orchard fruits and tropical hints before a peach and pineapple toned palate with good mouthfeel and juicy acidity through the close. 50/50 stainless steel and neutral French barrel fermented $22.97. 90 pts.
Township 7 Benchmark Series Reserve Chardonnay 2020 BC VQA Okanagan Valley
This luscious and layered drop starts out with vibrant orchard fruits and citrus on the nose with some buttery notes. The complex palate is creamy with generous mouthfeel. Well structured with apple and vanilla flavours and a mineral streak, wrapped in well managed oak. Partial malolactic fermentation brings added heft and generosity before a crisp close. Wine Club only, $31.97. 93 pts.
BC Wine Month Bonus!
Want to impress your friends and family with your BC wine knowledge? Become a BC Wine Ambassador…
In celebration of BC Wine Month, Wine Growers of British Columbia is offering complimentary access to the Wines of BC Ambassador Program Level One online certification. Valued at $75+gst, it’s suitable for all levels of wine knowledge. Click here and use the promo code BCWINEMONTH.
Filed under “Hired Belly News”
I can see the red roof of Blasted Church from the front deck, an iconic landmark across the lake. Just above is Black Dog, A VQA winery owned and run by a former Vancouver couple who are friends. Would be interested to know what you think of their selection. We’ve had many positive reviews of their frisson wines on hot summer nights on the deck. Hope to see you up here sometime.
—mick
Hi Mick. I haven’t tasted Black Dog, as far as I know. I will watch out for them. One of these days, yes, I will give you a shout when I’m going to be in your neighbourhood. It would be good to catch up. Cheers, T