Recently I opened a bottle of Golden Mile Cellars 5th Element Red Blend 2005. It was sent to me by the BC Wine Institute as part of the BC VQA 30th. anniversary.
I thought this bottle was noteworthy for any number of reasons, not the least of which was its age. There was a time not that long ago when people doubted the ability of BC reds to last in the bottle. This now 15 year old wine very much proves otherwise, as have many more.
Golden Mile Cellars was the precursor to Road 13, which is now part of von Mandl Family Estates. A couple of years prior to 2005 the winery had been purchased by Pam and Mick Luckhurst, who transformed it into a significant producer.
Also of note, a few years later the Luckhursts changed the name, in part to make ‘Golden Mile’ available to the region. In so doing they cleared the way for BC’s first sub GI (Geographic Indicator), Golden Mile Bench.
The Luckhursts worked with winemakers who were all accomplished blenders, including Michael Bartier. Michael, with his brother, Don, now owns and operates Bartier Bros., across the valley.
A changing climate
2005 was a fairly typical vintage—for the time. At 1506 Growing Degree Days (GDDs) it was ‘normal’ but certainly cooler in comparison to what’s transpired more recently. Here are the Osoyoos GDDs for the last eight years, as reported by BC Wine Grape Council. (BCWGC)
(Year – GDDs)
2012 – 1545
2013 – 1624
2014 – 1702
2015 – 1764
2016 – 1635
2017 – 1598
2018 – 1575
2019 – 1598
Average GDDs for period – 1630
The Art of the blend
Despite—or perhaps because of—the cooler vintage, this wine has developed beautifully. It’s a good example of what can be achieved with the right grapes in the right hands. Michael Bartier says early shoot thinning that year produced very intense fruit. In the glass it’s starting to turn a little more rust tinged but still quite fresh on the nose, with some raisin and cedar hints under the red berry and earthy notes. The plum and blackberry palate is medium bodied, smooth and quite plush, with well integrated tannins and a savoury edge perked up by some peppery notes. It coninued to open nicely in the glass and didn’t fade at all.
I like the back label, which makes the point that a little Syrah in the blend (the 5th Element) goes a long way.
Here’s the copy:
What is the fifth element? — Syrah. The greatest and most rewarding challenge in making of wine is assembling The Blend, to make a wine that is greater than the sum of its component parts. The first four elements of this wine are the domain of a tradition, but still, something was missing… This year just a small amount of Syrah brought it spice and weight to round out this wine. Next year who knows, a missing element? A different element? There are no rules.
Michael Bartier, winemaker
That got me thinking about just how relatively quickly— at least in wine terms—Syrah has emerged on the BC scene. If you want to read extensively about the rise of Syrah in relation to Cabernet Sauvignon check out my Quench piece from 18 months ago.
Meanwhile, Road 13 still makes their excellent 5th Element, in which the Syrah portion has grown considerably since 2005. It wins consistently in competitions such as the National Wine Awards.
Bartier today
Winemaker Michael Bartier in his home vineyard
These days Michael Bartier puts Syrah to good use in his delicious Bartier Bros. GSM. The 2017 (which comes from a close neighbour) is a standout blend of about one third of each variety. Its vibrant red berry fruits lead invite you in to a complex and layered palate of raspberry and mulberry / tayberry, with an edgy, juicy touch of wild fruit, over a mineral streak. (92 pts). The winery direct price of $29.99 adds up to excellent value for money.
You can find the following Bartier Bros. wines at BC Liquor Stores:
Merlot 2018 (2017 92 pts) $21.99; Syrah 2017, structured, meaty and savoury (91 pts) $29.99; Chardonnay 2016 (91 pts) $19.99 and Rosé 2018, a citrus and quince toned blend of Chardonnay, Gewurz. and Merlot (91 pts) $17.99.
Next time you’re in the south Okanagan be sure to drop by and taste at Bartier Bros. You’ll be sure to find a warm reception, lots to like—and no shortage of good value.
What’s more, my guess is the wines—the reds in particular—will age very well.
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