A Taste of Nostalgia Kerner 2020 turned out to be a trip down Memory Lane. The Kerner kicked off this week’s tasting with newly minted Nostalgia Wines. Nostalgia is the renamed Oliver Twist Winery, on Black Sage Bench.
To be honest, I never did quite grasp what was behind ‘Oliver Twist’. Was it named after Oliver? As a salute to twist tops (which had recently taken hold? Or just wine that, hopefully, would have you… ‘asking for more’?
Former assistant winemaker Gina Fernandes Harfman purchased the winery in 2012. Before working for Oliver Twist she was assistant winemaker at Cassini Cellars. Harfman (now the winemaker) runs Nostalgia with a dynamic (almost) all women team.
The winemaker is a fourth generation farmer, whose family came from Portuguese Madeira. And yes, there is a trial of some Madeira-style wine currently aging in barrel. ;-) This spring she retired the original name in favour of her Nostalgia line of wines. All now sport a striking, new and attractive design.
Before becoming a winemaker Harfman was in demand as an automotive airbrush and pinstripe artist. Her creativity is evident on several of Nostalgia’s other fun and light-hearted label designs. She admits to being unabashedly sentimental. Hence ‘Nostalgia.’ “Wine is about making memories and connections,” she suggests. And adds, “This whole place is a hug from the past.”
Honing in on Kerner
As for my memories, one of the first BC Kerners I tasted was a Dry Kerner from now closed Carriage House. Not far from Nostalgia, it was a small winery that struggled with some tricky frost pockets. But in milder years they did manage to make a pretty wicked Dry Kerner. That wine made it onto the wine list at Bacchus at the Wedgewood (one of Vancouver’s top hotels). A heady achievement indeed.
Maybe there was a connection to the original vines in what’s now the Becker Vineyard at Phantom Creek. It was planted with Germanic varieties in 1977 as part of the ground breaking Becker Project. Dr. Helmut Becker headed up Germany’s Geisenheim Institute.
Invited to the valley by Walter Gehringer, he’s credited with kick-starting the modern BC industry. The Gehringers, the Heiss Family (Gray Monk), Hainles and others all took part. Kerner was among some 30 cool climate varieties that Dr. Becker donated to the eight year trial.
Nostalgia’s former owners planted their Kerner after tasting the Carriage House wine. GM Sheila Whittaker calls it ‘Sunshine in a glass’—and we couldn’t agree more.
Nostalgia Kerner 2020 (Okanagan Valley BC VQA)
Inviting tropical, orchard fruit and honeysuckle aromas. Pineapple, pear and honey on the palate with appealing spicy hints. Gently off-dry, mouth filling and fruit driven but with good acidity. Pair with cheeses like Albert’s Leap Borgonzola, liver paté or mild curries. $21.99 90 pts.
Nostalgia Rosé 2020
From Oliver and Osoyoos sites, a Saignée method blend of almost equal parts Cab. Sauv. (24%), Merlot (23%) and Syrah (23%) with Malbec (17%) and Cab. Franc (13%). Medium copper colour in the glass. Up-front red berry fruits with some macerated hints. Redcurrant, watermelon, strawberry and cranberry on the palate. Somewhat tempered by the more vegetal Cab Franc, says Sheila Whittaker. $23.99 89 pts.
Nostalgia Pinot Gris 2020 (BC VQA Okanagan Valley)
Sourced from the home vineyard along with other Oliver and Osoyoos sites. Forward notes of orchard and stone fruits. Lively and aromatic with bright, refreshing acidity, ripe apple and pear on the palate. $21.99 90 pts
Pin Up Series Chantilly Lace
Kerner is the foundation for this fun, off-dry sparkler, blended with Chardonnay (19%). All fruit from the Home Vineyard. Tropical and orchard fruit tones, a lively stream of fine bubbles. Pineapple, mango, pear and nectarine on the off-dry palate. An uncomplicated and fun dessert styled sparkler. Think sweeter brunch dishes, mild blue cheese or just as a perfect post-meal sip. $24.99 90 pts.
Nostalgia Merlot 2018 (Okanagan Valley BC VQA)
Made with 95% Merlot from Nostalgia Home Vineyard, with 3% Cab. Sauv. (Harfman Vineyard, Osoyoos) and 2% Malbec (Gablemann Vineyard, Oliver). Up front red and black berry fruits leading to a medium to full bodied palate. Raspberry, damson, blackberry and herbal notes, wrapped in good acidity with firm tannins. ($32.99) 88 pts.
Nostalgia Family Collection Meritage 2018 (Okanagan Valley BC VQA)
A blend of Merlot (51%) and Cab. Sauv (21%) with Cab Franc (14%), Malbec (11%) and a splash of Petit Verdot (3%). Sourced mainly from estate and family owned vineyards in Oliver and Osoyoos. Red and black berries with leather and spice notes on the nose. The structured palate shows cassis, raspberry, dark cherry and damson, with a spice background. Pronounced tannins. This is a wine for putting away for at least a year or three, or more. ($37.99) 89 pts.
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