I’ve written at length about the success of Sea Star Vineyards, in part, because I enjoy a personal connection with the Gulf Islands (Northern and Southern) that spans several decades. But also because, since Sea Star emerged in the place of its struggling Pender Island predecessor, I’ve been consistently impressed by the wines every vintage.
What’s more, I have no illusions as to how challenging it is to both grow grapes and run a successful winery in a remote setting. I also remember when (in the 1990s) the late Jean-Luc Bertrand left Le Gavroche to hand plant the initial Saturna Island vineyard. (Purchased by Sea Star in 2017.) This was a bold move at the time, when, (compared to today) the BC industry was still relatively undeveloped.
Much of Sea Star’s ascendance to the Gulf Islands’ flagship winery has come about because it always speaks clearly to the idea of ‘the right grape for the right site.’ As well there’s a keen understanding of what it takes to make a good blend, that defines the ‘house style’. And to keep that style truly food friendly by making the most of (and managing well) the natural acidity. But it’s also thanks to an attention to detail, that starts with intuitive packaging and branding. The starfish (in its various entities that Sea Star celebrates) is a vital part of the now very vulnerable ecosystem throughout the Salish Sea and beyond. That emblem serves well to amplify Sea Star’s mantra of sustainability.
On the market
After several ‘stellar’ vintages, owner David Goudge has put the wineries (Sea Star and Saturna vineyards) up for sale. (The Saturna property is under contract.) I have my fingers crossed that he will find the right buyer(s), especially for Sea Star itself, which truly has emerged as one of the coast’s flagships.
In retrospect
It seemed like the right time to ask David to look back at what’s been achieved…
Here are his comments…
“First and foremost I am incredibly grateful for the whole experience of being in the wine business at a time when BC wines are earning world recognition, and certainly Coastal wineries in BC are earning respect as well.”
He also makes the point that the original Morning Bay Winery (established by Keith Watt) was on the right track.
“Many people raised their eyebrows when they heard I purchased the winery on Pender because the founder was brave but the wines were not that well received. I used to say ‘don’t blame the grapes’. The cool climate varietals were well chosen for the location and each of them reach phenolic ripeness, although it can be a challenge to have the Riesling ripen.”
And he’s quick to give credit to the support he received from the Vancouver sommelier community, which plays an important role in BC’s wine culture.
“The first time I met with Sommeliers Andrea Vescovi, Bryant Mao and Matthew Landry (all three of whom have been recognized as BC Sommeliers of the year at various times) their eyebrows raised as well. They immediately added our wines to their respective menus at Blue Water Cafe, Hawksworth and The Stable House. So that’s when I took out my black marker and crossed off the pubs I thought might consider carrying our wines.”
“The Vancouver Sommelier scene is very closely knit. They all watch each other fairly closely with a friendly competitive engagement. Without a doubt Sea Star owes them gratitude for their support and they eliminated our advertising budget. In fact not advertising I think raised our ’boutique mystique’ and exclusivity. To this day I think some customers revel in ‘finding out about Sea Star’ as though it is their discovery.”
Making wine in a remote setting: spectacular, yes, but also challenging…
Ultimately, though, it’s really all about doing things right.
“Our winemaker gets full credit for what goes into the bottles. Year after year he has managed remarkable consistency and balance for each wine. “Star Followers” order cases in confidence that they’ll be every bit as good as previous years.”
Then there’s the personal touch…
“My naivety about what the wine business entails was likely the predominant reason I dove into it.”
“Whether it is my sense of determination ( aka stubbornness ) or pride ( aka ego ) I very much enjoyed representing our wines at our Tasting Room, or home deliveries, or deliveries to the restaurants. This allowed me a direct connection with everyone.”
I love that David mentions this. There aren’t too many wineries that do deliver in person. But I can think of a few who have built their reputation on face-to-face engagement (as well as what’s in the bottle), such as Little Farm, Foxtrot, Fairview Cellars—among others.
Watch this space for what transpires next ….
Here’s a sampling of current releases. While stocks are selling out quickly at the winery, you will find these wines at private wine stores and on better wine lists in BC.
Sea Star Salish Sea 2019 (Gulf Islands)
This blend of about 50/50 Ortega and Siegerrebe underscores how well these varieties can perform on the Southern Gulf Islands. Forward inviting aromas of stonefruit with tropical hints before a crisp and vibrant palate of peach and melon, buoyed by vibrant acidity through a fresh and lengthy finish. 91 pts. $25
Sea Star Stella Maris 2019 (Gulf Islands)
An interesting blend of Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, Schoënburger and Ortega sports appealing aromas of rose, citrus and stone fruit before a layered palate of melon, peach and citrus supported by firm acidity. 91 pts. $25
Sea Star Blanc de Noir 2019 (Gulf Islands)
100 percent Pinot Noir, from nearby Clam Bay Farm, also on Pender Island. Medium salmon in the glass, enticing aromas of red berries announce a juicy palate of strawberry and rhubarb with some mineral hints, well balanced with good intensity and a fresh finish. 92 pts. $25
Sea Star Ortega 2019 (Gulf Islands)
Forward floral, citrus and tropical notes precede a juicy, well balanced palate wrapped in moderate acidity with peach, apricot and grapefruit hints, though a lingering close. Another firm indication as to why this variety (a cross of Müller Thurgau and Siegerrebe) should be more widely adopted as one of Vancouver Island’s and the Gulf Islands’ principal grapes. 93 pts. $25
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I really hope that these properties sell and can continue to produce these excellent wines. Woudl be a shame for their vintages to be interupted now that they have a little momentum.
Hi Luke, Indeed. I couldn’t agree more. I hope that Sea Star ascends even further. Also, it would be good if someone could do something comparable with Saturna. David was certainly headed in that direction.