Lakeboat Winery & Vineyard opens to the public on Canada Day. Lakeboat is the newest addition to a small but growing group of wineries nestled along the idyllic western shore of Skaha Lake. Kaleden is a delightful, historic, lakeside farming community tucked away off Hwy 97. Just north of the junction of Hwy 3A from Keremeos, it’s about halfway between Penticton and Okanagan Falls. That makes it an easy wine touring spot to discover.
At the helm is former Calgarian Tara Mathison. She has had a penchant for “rescuing old houses and lost dogs for as long as I can remember.” And, apparently, also for rescuing neglected vineyards. Lakeboat is the former Top Shelf Winery which, despite its name and a valiant run, never did quite manage to win that elusive winery cup.
Mathison was drawn to Kaleden by a century-old home that she’s transformed into a delightful guest house, which adds to the backwater’s charming and friendly lure. The owner engaged consultant Will Coleman (co-founder of Township 7) to manage the project.
Behind the scenes is consulting winemaker Mireille Sauvé. She’s been busy getting last year’s vintage ship-shape and planning for this year’s. Sauvé, who in 1997 became western Canada’s youngest, and BC’s first female, certified sommelier, is known for her Dames wines—that have raised significant funds for Les Dames d’Escoffier scholarships—as well as for her Wine Umbrella wines.
A history of viticulture
Sauvé points to Kaleden’s unique terroir that’s been producing quality winegrapes for many years. However, “they haven’t gotten the reception they deserve,” as often as not they were just blended into big production wines. It’s her belief that Kaleden is at the tipping point of being discovered in its own light.
Sauvé’s intent is “to craft small-batch wines from locally-sourced grapes. It is our hope to lend a respectful nod to the rich history of wine-growing in this bustling agricultural community. And to provide benchmark examples of some of our favourite grape varieties to share with wine-loving friends and neighbours.”
I was lucky to recently get a sneak preview of the four wines on offer when Lakeboat’s tasting room opens, July 1st. They’re listed below with the winemaker’s notes and my quick comments and scores.
The Lakeboat: a moment in time
As a bit of a history geek, I find Lakeboat’s nod to BC’s vanished mode of transport quite enchanting. Sternwheelers played a major role in the province’s development. They provided a vital communication link—which ended after only a few decades with the expansion of railways. In fact many of those early CPR sternwheelers provided a convenient and (usually!) safe link to the railway. Some even carried freight cars, with mixed results.
Sternwheelers plied the waters of Kootenay Lake, Lake Okanagan, Skaha Lake and others across the land. They transported people and goods (notably fruit during harvest) up and down the valleys. An early CPR tour de force, it’s the SS Aberdeen that graces Lakeboat’s label. (A classic lakeboat memento that you can tour is the now on dry land SS Sicamous, in Penticton.)
Kaleden’s namesake, The SS Kaleden made only one official voyage, in 1910. A smaller vessel, her shallow draft was supposed to allow navigation of the ‘bathtub deep’ waters of the Okanagan River, and allow her to land on the beach—at places like Kaleden. The river joined Okanagan and Skaha lakes, the route now taken by the Penticton River Channel. Sadly, on her maiden voyage she became stranded. She was re-consigned to hauling freight, including, ironically, dynamite for building the railways. Never mind, she was still a gutsy little vessel, truly emblematic of those pioneering times.
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Details:
Lakeboat Vineyard & Winery, 236 Linden Avenue, Kaleden
Summer Hours: Friday, Saturday, Sunday (and long weekends) from 11am to 5pm
No reservations required.
@lakeboatwinery #tastekaleden
More info at www.lakeboatwinery.com
Lakeboat 2021 Pinot Gris $21.95 Retail SKU 394715
Benchmark orchard fruit flavours abound in this light, crisp Gris. White peach, Granny Smith apple and apricot nuances make this a refreshing patio sipper. Perfect with picnics or canapés. (HB: Nice fruit flavours, with good acidity and length, and pleasing varietal expression, 90 pts.)
Lakeboat 2021 Chardonnay $26.95 Retail SKU 394721
A smooth, round mouthfeel introduces this lightly-oaked Chardonnay. Tropical notes of pineapple and ripe banana balanced with flinty minerality and fresh nectarine. A lovely combination of flavours and textures. (HB: Creamy and buttery with well-managed oak and a lengthy finish, 90 pts)
Lakeboat 2020 Pinot Noir $29.95 Retail SKU 394737
Wild strawberries and cherry pie introduce this pure Okanagan Pinot. Bright vanilla flavours pair with smooth tannins. This wine is perfectly suited to picnic lunches or mixed charcuterie. (HB: Bing cherry and sage notes with a pleasing savoury streak, 91 pts)
Lakeboat 2020 Merlot $32.95 Retail SKU 394745
Medium-bodied with ripe black plum and earthy wood flavours. A bold red suited to full-flavoured meals. Pair with stews, lentils or BBQ-ed meats. (HB: excellent varietal definition, well balanced with some spice notes, 90 pts)
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