Iberia calls! There’s both a happy and sad reality to the Vancouver International Wine Festival (Feb 24th to March 4th). It really is a case of “too many wines, too little time.”
Not only does it enjoy the reputation of being among the best of its kind, anywhere, this year’s festival has the added distinction of turning 40. And the present day version is a far cry from the inaugural edition of 1978: it featured just one winery—albeit visionary: Robert Mondavi.
Signs of an evolving world, 2018 sees a collaboration between Spain and Portugal—aka Iberia. That likely wouldn’t have happened even a few years back. But the 2018 nod to Iberia is both timely and beneficial to all involved.
Iberia: A Long History
Iberia is one of few places in the world where people have made wine for millennia.
Even now, when you travel around, it’s not uncommon to stumble across the evidence. Hollowed out stones are often remnants of presses that date from Roman times. In Portugal, the Douro Valley is the oldest demarcated wine region in the world. (At Quinta do Crasto you’ll find a stone marker, placed there in the late 1750s.)
Being able to experience the wines of Iberia under one roof adds up to one big embarrassment of riches. It’s a broad spectrum of value and sophistication. Wine lovers will be able to taste everything from Vintage Port to Sherries of every kind, plus Cava and other sparkling wines. Not to mention still wines from across the spectrum. Table wines from both countries have changed radically in the last couple of decades and are hailed for their good quality and value.
Today, most agree: both Spain and Portugal offer tremendous ‘QPR’—Quality Price Ratio.
Make a plan
Yes. Know before you go. You’ll find no shortage of helpful hints here about making the most of wine festival. (They include: don’t forget to spit; and don’t hog the tasting table.) But the golden rule of attending the International Tasting is to know what you plan to taste ahead of time. But do leave some time to deviate. It’s all about discovering new tastes. Plus, please, leave your preconceptions at the door. Be open to everything and you’ll be well rewarded—especially this year! You can download the International Tasting Room floor plan in the brochure from the wine festival website ahead of time.
All of these wines (mainly—but not only—from Iberia) should be on your list. Plus not a few others…
One more tip. Did you know that you can make notes of your favourite wines tasted, order them at the BCLS store on the way out and have them delivered at no charge to your local BCLS store?
See you in the tasting room!
Juve y Camps Reserva de Familia Brut Nature Cava 2014 (above)
Cava to the next level.
This wine always comes to Vancouver when Spain is a theme region. And then disappears. It’s been that way forever. That has to stop! A definite nod to big C Champagne, it’s yeasty and toasty, textured and mouth-filling with wicked length. 91 pts. / Taste it at Viva Iberia.
Parés Balta Cava Blanca Cusiné, Penedes 2010
Anyone who doubts that Cava makers can make a vintage Champagne style needs to taste this wine. While we often buy the ‘regular’ Parés Balta bubble, this is a step up—and the 2010 is showing how well made vintage Cava can age superbly. It’s yellow gold in the glass, classic nutty and brioche biscuity on the nose, mouth-filling and creamy with more than a pleasing reductive hint of ‘gout anglaise’. 92 pts
Sottal Vinho Leve 2016
This easy sipping Lisboa wine is a perennial award winner. It was conceived as an alternative to Vinho Verde, with grapes picked early and alcohol kept low (9.5% abv). The orange toned, fruity but zippy blend of Moscatel, Arinto and Vital is ideal with local seafood such as clams and shrimp. And makes for a perfect patio sipper. Readily available locally. 90 pts.
Heredade Das Servas Sem Barrica Red Alentejo 2015
‘Sem Barrica’ translates to ‘without barrel’ or un-oaked and that’s just what you get with this very fresh, pure offering, with plenty of forward red and black berry notes before a full bodied palate of plum and dark cherry. Nicely integrated tannins and a fine core through the strong close. 91 pts
Cabriz Dao Encruzado Reserva 2010
Outside of Vinho Verde, Portuguese whites are a relative rarity. But that’s changing, as this delicious 100% Encruzado proves, from one of Dao’s most consistent producers. I’d peg Encruzado somewhere between Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc. Vibrant citrus and orchard notes before a fresh, clean palate with good, textured mouthfeel, stonefruit and tropical tones with a layered and lingering end.
Quails Gate Chenin Blanc 2016
No, it’s not from Iberia. I’ll confess a bias towards this wine because it’s one of the original Okanagan vinifera. And it’s not Chardonnay … I also recall a time when there were some rumblings about pulling it out. Happily, that didn’t happen. For me it’s quintessential Okanagan, fruit driven but still elegant, with up front citrus and honey notes before a juicy, quite layered palate with some slight grassy herbal hints and a touch of minerality. It’s a steal, too. Just saying. / Taste it at a Glowbal Affair.
Casale del Giglio Tempranijo Rosso Lazio IGT 2014
This was a pleasant surprise, one of the absolute highlights of this tasting. Vibrant, lifted aromas of red berries, with some earthy hints, followed by a well balanced palate emphasized by juicy acidity and integrated tannins through a slightly spicy finish. I also love that it’s Italian Tempranillo. So it neatly fits in well with the theme. 93 pts. / Taste it at Great Red Grapes.
Bodegas Garzon Single Vineyard Tannat 2015
Globe trotting winemaker Alberto Antonini runs the winemaking side of things at Uruguay’s star winery. And it shows, with vibrant lifted red and black berries before a full bodied but still fresh palate of plum and mocha notes, a touch of vanilla and oak spice balanced by decent acidity. If you’ve never tasted wine from Uruguay—or Tannat—here’s your chance. 90 pts
Suvla Sur 2010 (Turkey)
Wine festival is all about discovering new things—at least it should be. What could be more novel than a Bordeaux style blend from Turkey, made right on the shores of historic Gallipoli? Suvla has been making waves here for a few years now. At a January tasting I was impressed by wines from across the range. This Bordeaux blend delivers up front red and black fruit before a well balanced palate of luscious blackberry, raspberry and cassis notes wrapped in firm tannins with spicy hints and a lengthy end. 92 pts.
Bodegas Alvear Fino (Spain)
Alvear is one of Jerez’ most consistent and quality driven producers. Made with 100 percent Pedro Ximénez, ‘PX’, it definitely sports a pronounced yeasty nose that shows the ‘flor’ characteristics so well, plus some saline hints before a lively, all too easy to drink palate—which is why, really, you should have a bottle chilling in your fridge at all times. Very food flexible, perfect with all kinds of tapas. But best with olives, anchovies and ham. 90 pts Taste it at Shades of Sherry, Viva Iberia
Kung Fu Girl Riesling 2015 (Washington State)
Although I swear we’re drinking more and more, it’s still tough to get some people to drink Riesling. However, bit by bit, wines like this one from the enigmatic Charles Smith are changing that. There’s just a hint of developing petrol on the nose that lets you know for sure that it is Riesling, before the luscious but fresh and juicy palate of citrus and stonefruit. A great example of how updated packaging (which downplays ‘Riesling’—hard to pronounce for some) can lead the consumer to a well made wine they might otherwise not buy. 90 pts
Altos Los Hormigas Malbec Terroir 2015 (Argentina)
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