Howard Soon, in Canadian wine terms, is ‘a living legend.’ Yes, I know. He’ll hate me for saying that. But it’s true. And this week it was confirmed by Howard being recognized with one of the highest awards in the country: the Order of Canada. That had me digging back to 2017, for a story I wrote when Howard ‘retired’ from Andrew Peller / Calona / Sandhill.

As I suspected, it wasn’t too long before he was back in the saddle, with Vanessa Vineyard as Master Winemaker.

I’m just going to leave a link to that story here because I think it’s still valid. (With a couple of current Vanessa reviews tacked on…)

Consider it my own small tribute to this man who’s helped us all, immensely, in countless ways.

Thank you, and sincere congratulations, Howard!

***

Howard Soon, an Okanagan Legend, Retires (for now)

Contents hide
1 Howard Soon, an Okanagan Legend, Retires (for now)
2 An Okanagan Pioneer
2.1 Vanessa Vineyard Cabernet Franc (Similkameen Valley)
2.2 Vanessa Vineyard 2015 Syrah (Similkameen Valley)

The old show biz adage “Leave ‘em wanting more” came to mind when I heard this past week that pioneering Okanagan winemaker Howard Soon will retire in July. Soon is an Okanagan original, having joined Calona Wines in 1980. I’ve followed the remarkable growth of the BC wine industry pretty closely over the last few decades—and Howard has been instrumental in so many aspects almost every step of the way.

An Okanagan Pioneer

Way back in the early 80s there weren’t too many people interested in tasting Okanagan wines, especially Okanagan reds. But Howard made a pretty quaffable Rougeon (hybrid) before turning his attention to vinifera. In those days Calona’s business still revolved firmly around cheap, bulk wine. That was the model that had always worked and Howard faced an uphill battle.

However, along with a handful of people, including Harry McWatters, he was a firm believer that the future lay in good quality vinifera.The BC wine industry owes Howard Soon a huge debt of gratitude. I would say we’ll miss him—and we will. But my hunch is that his winemaking days aren’t over yet.

Read on…

Vanessa Vineyard Cabernet Franc (Similkameen Valley)

From another ususual vintage with one of the hottest spring’s on record before a cooler growing season. Made from 100% estate Cabernet Franc, destemmed and gently crushed, small batch fermented in French and American oak, aged over 20 months. Up front black fruit and red fruits with dusty notes and hints of tea and graphite. A superbly balanced palate of herbaceous and spice notes with cassis, pepper and trademark Similkameen minerality wrapped in approachable tannins through the lengthy close. $49.99  92 pts.

Vanessa Vineyard 2015 Syrah (Similkameen Valley)

A blend of Syrah (92%) with Viognier, from the hottest vintage on record to date, and from one of the rockiest sites in the Okanagan and Similkameen valleys, made almost entirely with free run juice, with a small amount of viognier blended in. Matured for 20 months in new and second use American and French oak.  Aromas of red and black berries with plum and cherry above some meaty gamey hints. The plush, full bodied palate rewards with black current, cassis and spicy black pepper notes, underpinned by a definite savoury, herbal streak with a distinctive mineral edge and seamless tannins before a lengthy gently savoury and vanilla close. $34.99  93 pts.