‘Our roots run deep,’ says Hester Creek’s motto. Too true. Indeed, scratch the surface and it doesn’t take long to find out what makes things tick. The winery traces its origins to some of the very first vinifera plantings in the Okanagan. They date back over 50 years, to 1968, when Joe Busnardo purchased land south of Oliver on what’s now the celebrated Golden Mile Bench.
Coming from Italy’s Veneto wine region, the upbeat Busnardo was convinced he could grow quality grapes on the site. However, the very notion of ‘quality’ flew in the face of authorities interested only in bulk wine. Despite being thwarted at every step by intransigent bureaucracies, eventually, Busnardo succeeded in establishing his vineyard.
Hester Creek: a Storied Past
The pioneering Busnardo eventually upped stakes for Vancouver Island. His vineyard was eventually purchased in 2004 by B.C. entrepreneur Curt Garland. Over the last 17 years Garland has continued to provide the vision and capital to take the winery to the next level. Now, with a comprehensive redesign and re-alignment, Hester Creek continues to flourish while at the same time celebrating its unique roots.
“Both our wines and the market have evolved,” says President Mark Sheridan. “We decided to step back and look at our packaging and make sure it represented what we are as a company and as a brand; that it reflects our estate, with the Tuscan feel that we have.”
The elegant new packaging is defined by four distinct tiers, all of which connect to Hester Creek’s genesis in some way; and very much reflect its philosophy.
“Right at the core of who we are is our vineyard and our estate. The fact that it includes some of the oldest vines in B.C. is a point of recognition for us,” he adds. But Sheridan also says, “Beyond the connection to our terroir and our community, ‘Our roots run deep’ refers to many areas of operation. They include the winery team’s broad experience from vineyard to cellar as well as sophisticated hospitality in the tasting room, at Terrafina and the Villa accommodations.
A Stellar Cellar
Okanagan raised winemaker Mark Hopley has been busy reshaping various aspects of Hester Creek’s production.
“Mark Sheridan has really given us the tools and Curt, our owner, has allowed us to go off and spend some money on great equipment, as well as purchasing excellent fruit from outside,” Hopley explains.
“We’re growing the barrel program, almost exclusively with French Oak, as well as ageing our wines longer on the fine lees. This helps deliver more rounded mouthfeel and viscosity in the wines,” he says. “In many cases we’re going to barrel earlier, with more bâttonage to bring additional depth.”
“We’ve also made investments in infrastructure and equipment—including a brand new de-stemmer that’s super gentle on the fruit. I’m really excited about that,” he says.
“For the whites, our ferments are longer and slower. We’re also picking them earlier, trying to keep that vibrant acidity and really keeping the alcohols in check.”
Depth on the Bench
“In 2018 assistant winemaker Rebecca Ruggeri joined the team, bringing her 9 years of experience, including three years at Gary Farrell Winery in the Russian River Valley and most recently at Checkmate Artisanal Winery. Plus, our lab manager Marie Hebrard, who hails originally from France’s Côtes du Tarn, has worked for us since 2006. Not to overlook our vineyard Manager Iqbal Gill, who has worked in the vineyard since 1995.”
“It’s fair to say we have a pretty deep roster here,” Hopley suggests.
In the Glass
Hester Creek’s new tiers are as follows: aptly named, Foundation wines span the spectrum of quality and value. The Storied Series comprises small lot wines that highlight their specific terroir and tell a unique, viticultural story. The Source Collection (which includes Trebbiano and their Old Vine Cabernet Franc) celebrates the estate’s old vines and other, select South Okanagan growers. And the Origin Series numbers just two top tier, barrel select, highly awarded wine, The Judge and Garland.
Hester Creek Ti Amo 2020 (Okanagan Valley BC VQA)
This nod to Prosecco is an aromatic blend of Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer and Sémillon, hand-picked, whole cluster pressed, with the first two varieties co-fermented. The blend was refermented for 30 days in Charmat style. It sports up front notes of rose petal and tropical hints with a gently off-dry palate of peach, lychee and citrus. (Foundation Series) $19.99 90 pts.
Hester Creek Viognier 2020 (Okanagan Valley BC VQA)
One hundred percent, single vineyard Viognier, sourced from Stone’s Throw Vineyard, adjacent to the Black Sage Bench. Hand-picked, whole cluster pressed and aged on the fine lees for four months. Upfront stone fruits and orange blossom precede a juicy, vibrant palate bursting with peach and nectarine wrapped in bright but measured acidity. Pure fruit flavours, very food friendly and excellent value. Pair with pan-fried, chili spiced, breaded oysters. (Storied Series) $19.99 91 pts.
Hester Creek Old Vine Brut 2018 (Golden Mile Bench – Okanagan Valley BC VQA)
Inaugural vintage, made from Pinot Blanc, chosen because “It comes from an old block, has such nice structure, and isn’t a fruit bomb like some valley whites,” says Hopley, who adds, “We really thought it would have a nice backbone for traditional method sparkling.” Hand-picked, hand-sorted and whole cluster pressed, en tirage for 24 months. A stream of fine bubbles and a persistent mousse, appealing brioche notes with orchard fruits. The palate yields a textured mouthfeel with citrus and green apple notes, through a creamy, lengthy finish. (Source Collection) 92 pts. $34.99
Hester Creek The Judge 2018 (Golden Mile Bench – Okanagan Valley BC VQA)
A Merlot dominant, Bordeaux style blend, with Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon, from a challenging but rewarding vintage ultimately with lengthy ripening for optimum development. Hand-harvested from mainly old vines, gently fermented for 15 days in state-of-the-art Ganimede fermenters. Forward red and black berries with some herbal, vanilla and dusty notes. The plush palate invites with mulberry, black cherry before a lingering streak of minerality, supported by approachable, well integrated tannins. Open well ahead, decant or, better still, wait a few years and this wine will reward with even more layers and complexity. (Origin Wines) $43.99 93 pts.
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