“There’s no view in Vancouver anywhere like this,” says Glowbal Group CEO Emad Yacoub. We were sitting by the west-facing windows in the Five Sails Restaurant, just off the soaring Pan Pacific atrium.

Yacoub’s company (which operates numerous successful entities) took over the iconic space on January 1, from the accomplished husband and wife team of Chef Ernst Dorfler and Gerry Sayers.

The restaurant continues to operate ‘under full sail.’ That was clearly demonstrated by last night’s Chef’s Tasting Menu, marked by more than a few highlights.

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Five Sails lobster bisque, served ‘cappuccino’ style, with shaved black truffle

No question, the glass-wrapped room sports one of the city’s most impressive panoramas. The view from many tables reaches from Stanley Park and Lions Gate Bridge almost to Ironworkers and Second Narrows—interrupted only by the sails themselves.

One of Canada’s most successful restaurateurs, Yacoub knows better than to tamper too much with so storied a room. Opening just before Expo 86, the white linen room was the jewel in the crown of the Pan Pacific and Canada Place. However, in recent years, especially with the shift away from fine dining, the Five Sails has faded from view. 

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Five Sails fresh Dungeness crab with mango, apple and passionfruit purée

While Yacoub intends to renovate the space during a 10 day mid-April closure, the work will amount to more of a facelift, keeping the space’s distinctive features very much intact. Although, there will be new, Italian chairs … once the current situation allows them to get here.

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Miso and sake marinated sable fish with spun potates and saffron butter sauce

Yacoub does plan to execute “… a more modern upscale design. We hope to offer guests a fresh new dining experience while continuing to honour the important legacy of this iconic Vancouver restaurant.”

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Honey glazed smoked duck breast with braised red cabbage purée, salsify, pine nuts and huckleberry sauce

Significantly, almost the entire kitchen and long serving front of house teams remain intact. They include Sous Chef Masa Mabuchi and Sommelier Ramon Fresneda, who has been working with the restaurant for 20 years. 

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Five Sails seared AAA Alberta beef filet, beurre marchand de vin, cashel, blue infused golden potato pavé, Madeira sauce

The changes will include a new, small lounge area at the restaurant’s entrance, “Where people can just come in for a drink and enjoy the view,” says Yacoub. In the future he hopes it will help make the most of the room’s dramatic setting, “Maybe like watching the sunset with a bottle of bubbly,” he suggests.

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Five Sails Grand Marnier Soufflé , rum and raisin ice cream, creme anglaise

He’s also thinking of offering “a gorgeous, very high end brunch,” which will be truly exclusive”…”maybe just 50 covers.”

Our tasting menu closed with the perfectly puffed Five Sails Grand Marnier soufflé, impeccable served, as always, against a post sunset, still stunning backdrop.

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Hired Belly was hosted by the Five Sails and Glowbal Group.