Recently I was delighted to meet Giovanni Meschini, charming proprietor of Fattoria Colmone della Marca, for a tasting of some unique wines. They come from one of Italy’s smallest DOC’s—I Terrini di San Severino Moro, in the heart of the Marche. Fattoria Colmone is the sole producer. They make only around 28,000 bottles (or appx. 2,300 cases) a year. Yields are low due to meticulous vineyard management, including bunch thinning. Also the ‘white from red’ process yields only 40 litres of must from every 100 kg of grapes. The bunches themselves are beyond impressive!
Piedmont born and raised in the Marche, Meschini is upholding the legacy of his late father. He was celebrated for making the first white Sangiovese in Italy, as well as, later, white Merlot. Meschini says part of the idea behind making ‘white from red’ was to bring attention to the red wines. And pave the way for them to more easily enter the market. However, the whites have earned a certain notoriety and respect in their own right.
Fattoria Colmone della Marca: the wines
The floral and mineral-toned Bianco del Moro 2020 (Sangiovese, 91 pts) is at better Vancouver and area private wine stores. So too is the Il Merlo Albino 2021 (white Merlot, 90 pts).
The more complex 1.618 2020 white Merlot and Sangiovese 50/50 blend, with a touch of Alliers French oak, (92 pts.) is slated to be on some top restaurant lists later in the year. (Not yet in the market.)
More than merely a curiosity, these unadulterated white vinified reds of pure fruit expression are worth seeking out. To be honest, I haven’t tasted a whole lot of ‘white from red’—except for sparkling Blanc de Noir, of course! We do have a couple in BC, including an excellent white Pinot Noir, made by Grant Stanley at Spearhead Winery, in East Kelowna. It’s currently not being made due to short supply of grapes. It would be fun to try these completely blind—in black glasses. But I digress.
On to the ‘real’ reds!
Meanwhile, the perfect bridge to the ‘reds from reds’ is the Black Vernaccia Frizzante Il Cialiero NV. It’s a fun and fruity, effervescent, food friendly drop styled to pair with the local specialty spiced salami, Ciauscolo IGP. ‘Cialiero’ means, literally, ‘the chatty one’ (90 pts)
Fattoria Colmone della Marca Re Piero 2017. This 50/50 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot brims with red berries before a plush palate with spicy undertones (92 pts).
Ciacco da Colmone DOC 2012 (80/20 Merlot / Sangiovese) brings intense, blue and black fruit with vanilla on top. The palate is plush and plummy palate with clove hints and well integrated tannins. Still surprisingly fresh and youthful. (93 pts.)
The finale, Fattoria Colmone della Marca 1.618 2012 ‘M’ DOC (100% Montepulciano), yields hints of balsamic and violets. It’s full bodied and well balanced with good acidity and a lengthy close that mirrors the house style. (94 pts). Selected as the official wine for the 2021 G20 gala dinner in Rome.
Fattoria Colmone della Marca is an approved supplier to to the Vatican. Incidentally, in case you didn’t know, the holy city has the highest per capita consumption of wine in the world…
What more can I say? Pax Vobis!
Look for these wines (vintages and prices vary) at Marquis Wine Cellars, West Coast Liquor (Kerrisdale), Everything Wine and Liberty Wines. And enjoy them by the glass or bottle at The Farmhouse, Carlino’s, La Tana and Savio Volpe in Vancouver and at Tratto in Penticton—to mention a few.
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