The wine world moves in mysterious ways, even more so in the grips of a global pandemic. But nature plays by her own rules. Indeed, time and vine wait for no one. Like all forms of agriculture, vineyards need to be cared for regardless, especially Pinot Noir. Grapes need to be harvested. And wine needs to be sold to make way for the next vintage—and to help fund the business.
Bue Grouse owner Paul Brunner (Derek Ford photo)
In the Cowichan Valley, Blue Grouse owner Paul Brunner says it’s been a challenging couple of months. When the pandemic hit in March they closed the tasting room; implemented free local delivery and free shipping; and enabled curb-side pickup. The biggest shift? Almost overnight, on-line purchasing went from being negligible to “an important segment of our business.”
As for how the summer will play out, Brunner’s not sure. When the tasting room does reopen, the winery expects to be affected by the lack of international travel. However, my guess is that there will be no shortage of locals and others who’ll show up. The winery owner hopes to open in early June. “when we feel it is safe and can follow the BC WorkSafe recommended safety protocols.”
Cowichan Valley: BC’s latest Sub-GI
In the background is the significant news that the Cowichan Valley Sub-GI has been approved—although the official announcement has been delayed by the pandemic. This is an important development, as it elevates the valley to the status of other ‘sub apps’ such as Naramata Bench, Skaha Bench and Golden Mile Bench. Comprehensive details on boundaries and soils etc. are here.
The new Blue Grouse
When the Brunner family purchased Blue Grouse from founder Hans Kiltz they soon went about taking things to the next level. But they also took care to celebrate the Kiltzs’ pioneering legacy. The changes have been impressive. They include a state of the art, dazzling new winery, and a vineyard expansion that will eventually quadruple the area under vine. Pinot Noir will play a big role. Within a few years, they’ll also transition fully to certified organic.
Pedro Parra (rt) with Blue Grouse team (supplied)
Paul Brunner and winemaker Bailey Williamson have been working with noted viticultural consultant Pedro Parra.
“It’s a serious commitment,” says Brunner, that by 2021 will result in total plantings of about 35 acres. At least one half will be to Pinot Noir, underscoring Blue Grouse’s focus. It’s a development which probably wouldn’t have happened so positively a couple of decades ago.
Blue Grouse winemkaer Bailey Williamson
In recent years, Island viticulture has been seeing the effects of climate change. A study conducted from 2014 to 2018 on nearby Saanich Peninsular showed a significant shift from 20 years ago. May through August saw about half the rainfall, with an increase in about 25% more growing degree days. In some ways that bodes well for the Cowichan, where full ripening used to be more tenuous. However, while things may be drying up during the summer months (requiring some irrigation) there’s more rainfall during the winter. Overall, though, fruit and yields have improved.
In short, it’s generally good news—for Pinot and more.
In a relatively brief period Blue Grouse has become one of Vancouver Island’s flagship wineries, and a formidable lure for the BC’s newest Sub App, the Cowichan Valley.
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Our tasting last week featured two wines well worth tracking down.
Blue Grouse Pinot Gris Estate 2019 (BC VQA Cowichan Valley)
Hans Kiltz planted these south-west facing vines back around 1986, so they’re now some of the Island’s oldest. 100 percent organically farmed without irrigation, low yielding and hand harvested after a hot, dry summer, with a little rain in September. In an ocean of all too often underwhelming Pinot Gris, this is one of the more distinct around. The winemaker’s use of large oak puncheons for about a third of the juice brings a little extra heft without overpowering the fruit or undermining the acid. Williamson says “It tempers the high acidity and overall makes for a more interesting wine. that will become part of the house style.”
Forward stone fruit and floral notes lead to peach and citrus on the palate, with generous texture and excellent balance, underpinned by a streak of minerality through the lengthy end. Think spot prawns or barbecued pancetta-wrapped peach slices. 92 pts. $25.99. Available from the winery (free shipping in BC for six+ bottles) and private wine stores.
Blue Grouse Estate Pinot Noir 2017. (BC VQA Cowichan Valley)
This unknown clone also dates from some of the Island’s earliest Pinot plantings, if not the first, as part of the original Cowichan Geisenheim trials. 12 months in New French (21%) and neutral American (79%) oak, before settling in terracotta amphora for five months, before four months bottle ageing, unfiltered and unfined. Forward deeper red berry notes, hints of dark cherry with an entry defined by vibrant and juicy acidity; a light to medium bodied palate of strawberry and cranberry flavours with a savoury edge and spicy notes through the close. 91 pts. $32 For purchase, check with the winery. Same shipping offer applies. Also available at select private wine stores both on the Island and in the Lower Mainland, as well as at Nightingale Restaurant.)
More info at bluegrouse.ca
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