Malbec—and more
To be honest, over the years I’ve developed a bit of a love-hate relationship with Malbec. Don’t get me wrong. Just like the rest of the world, I appreciate the value that Argentine Malbec offers. I have even more time for Malbec in Bordeaux based blends. Agreed, there’s no shortage of good Malbec from Argentina. But there’s also good Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, and other reds to seek out.
Our casual tasting group worked its way through close to a dozen wines the other night—mainly Malbec plus a couple of wicked Cabs. The main take-away from our informal tasting? Argentine Malbec really does deliver at every level—some more than others. Or, if you prefer, you pretty well get what you pay for. Even less complex (cheaper) wines still have something to offer. Approachable and affordable, no wonder Malbec’s popularity endures.
MASL – Taking it to the limit
The Argentine Andes from the east
On the other hand, spend even just a few dollars more and you’ll be well rewarded. Over the last while, Argentina has been working hard on vineyards at higher elevations. The results are apparent—and those wines certainly popped up in our tasting. Vines from these higher plantings tend to be on poorer soils, which means they have to work harder. And the variation between day and nighttime temperatures are greater. That drives acidity and often results in a fresher taste profile. Argentina’s viticulturists have also reduced overall water use by an impressive 40% in recent years.
Look for higher elevation, ‘MAS’ (Metres Above Sea-level) wines that show the vineyard elevation on the label. Also, not to be overlooked, is the significant proportion of old vines from which many of these wines come. That’s an added value and a definite bonus.
You can find a wealth of Malbec on LTO (Limited Time Offer)—as in ‘discounted’—at BC Liquor Stores this month (through September 1st.). Several are featured in a free tasting at BC Liquor Stores Cambie at 39th. Ave. Flagship store, Friday, August 17. 2 – 6 pm.
Taste with friends: it’s fun!
There’s nothing like an impromptu wine tasting with friends and neighbours. And it doesn’t take much effort to organize: invite people, add wine and stir. (Plus pick up a few deli bites for afterwards…) All you really have to do is come up with a way to hide the labels from snoopy eyes until the big reveal.
Nothing beats tasting blind (a lineup from the BC LG’s Awards)
Blind tasting is the only way to go. Over time I’ve learned that people’s preconceptions start with the name, the label design—even the variety—and go from there to the price. Besides, if you do taste blind there’ll usually be at least a couple of fun surprises. And, no, you don’t even need to go collecting brown paper bags. A piece of photocopy paper wrapped around the bottle and sealed with Scotch tape works just fine.
Plan your order from un-oaked through oak and more oaked, and you’re away to the races. We also tasted in flights of four, as it’s less intimidating. A little break between flights, perhaps with some sparkling water or even a light white helps a lot. There’s no better way to taste than with a group of good friends. People get to comfortably share their thoughts or opinions. And everyone comes away with something. Whether you encounter a new wine or just rediscover an old favourite, you will learn something. A bonus, we used Wine Folly’s placemat tasting guide. It’s easy to understand and practical. It also helps people with descriptors to match to their glass. I’d recommend it as a good foundation for any tasting.
Here’s a rundown of our crew’s faves, along with some others I have tasted recently. They’re well worth considering, especially for your next barbecued steak, burgers or morcilla!
Budget picks
Pascual Toso Malbec 2016 (Mendoza)
A long established winery, founded in 1890. A well-rounded drop with fruit and tannins in balance. Plush black and red berry notes, vanilla and a hint of anise. 40% aged in American oak. $15.49 90 pts. Also, don’t overlook the Cab. Sauv., for a dollar more—and great with pizza! Also at Marquis Cellars
Dona Paula Los Cardos Malbec 2016 (Lujan de Cuyo)
From sandy and clay loam and partially stony soils at 1,050 m. above sea level. The terroir comes through on the nose with earthy and mineral hints under red berries. A plush palate of well-balanced fruit and tannins with spicy notes and a little heat in the close. The most popular pick among our panel. Even before they knew the price: $12.99 A ‘go-to’ value wine for sure. 90 pts.
Masi Tupungato Passo Doble Organic Malbec 2016 (Uco Valley)
A touch of the Veneto in Mendoza. Here’s an interesting variation on the Malbec theme. The addition of some lightly dried ‘appassimento’ Corvina brings a fruity, slightly spicy lift. A juicy, cherry-toned and red berried, light to medium bodied palate. BCLS $14.99 regular, $12.99 LTO to Sept 1. 90 pts. Also at Marquis Cellars
1884 Escorihuela Gascon Reservado Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 (Mendoza)
Here’s a workhorse, value Cab. from another of Argentina’s oldest wineries. Forward black fruit and vanilla, spice aromas, blackberry and oak spice on the palate. Approachable tannins and a touch of graphite through the finish. BCLS $17.79 LTO $16.79 to Sept 1. 90 pts.
Stepping it up
San Juan—image courtesy Wines of Argentina
Ben Marco – Dominio del Plata Malbec 2014 (Uco Valley)
Made by Edgardo “Edy” Del Popolo, the GM of Susana Balbo Wines and widely hailed as a pioneering grower across the land. 100% Malbec, 1,110 metres elevation, hand harvested, 11 months in second use French oak. Blue and black fruit plus vanilla aromas, layers of raspberry, mulberry and darker notes on the palate. Underpinned by spicy oak, some smoky notes, a little mineral and long finish. BCLS $25.49 regular. $23.49 through August 31. 91 pts.
Bodega Catena Zapata High Mountains Malbec 2015 (Mendoza)
From the producer who put Malbec on the world map. 100 percent Malbec from four alluvial vineyards of varying soils, harvested at different times. Elevations range from 920 m. to 1450 m. Mineral and earthy aromas, black fruit and cassis, followed by blackberry and black cherry. Wrapped in firm tannins with a savoury edge. Well managed oak with pronounced acidity and a spicy, lingering end. $23.99, LTO $21.49 through Sept 1. 92 pts
Bodega Catena Zapata Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 (Mendoza)
A blend of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Cabernet Franc and 3% Petit Verdot. From five vineyards of alluvial origin with varying soild, harvested at different times. Elevations range from 950 to 1450 m. 12 to 14 months in first, second and third use French oak. Blue and black fruits with spice and cassis up front, followed by a generous palate. Juicy mulberry, black cherry and spice, plus a savoury edge. Easy tannins with anise and pepper through the lengthy finish. 92
Bodega Colomé Estate Malbec 2015. (Upper Calchaqui, Salta).
From four vineyards in northern Argentina with elevations of 1,700 m. through to 3,100 metres (the world’s highest). Significant diurnal swings deliver pronounced acidity and freshness. Intense, dark berry fruits up front, before a lusciously textured, viscose and layered palate. Cassis, mineral and some spicy elements through a lingering close. Some private stores, c. $45 before tax. 92 pts.
Finca Decero Malbec 2016 (Remolinos Vineyard, Mendoza)
The name means “from nothing”, literally. A 1050 m. foothills vineyard established from scratch on alluvial clay and loam over gravel sub-soils. Vibrant red berries on the nose followed by complex layers of cherry chocolate. Dark spice notes with a definite mineral streak, good acidity and well balanced oak. Private stores incl. Everything Wine: $27.99, 91 pts. Also at Marquis Cellars.
Finca Decero Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 (Remolinos Vineyard, Mendoza)
A single vineyard wine from Agrelo, grown at 1150 metres (3500 feet). Basket pressed, 14 months in (30 percent new) French Oak. Minty up front aromas with eucalyptus and herbal notes before a layered and luscious, well structured palate. Damson, black fruit and mocha with lingering herb and spice notes. A classic example of just how well Argentina does Cab. Sauv. Private stores incl. Everything Wine: $27.99 94 pts.
Valle Las Acequias Luis Segundo Malbec ‘Oak’ 2014 (Mendoza)
From a fourth generation winery established in 1860. “Acequias” are the irrigation ditches’ that foothills wineries use to channel snowmelt to irrigate. 100% Malbec, hand harvested from over 85 year old vines at 850 m. Aged 10 months in French oak and now five years in bottle, showing very well. Forward notes of red berries and plum before a lush palate of sweet fruit, damson and mulberry. Well managed oak with some toasty notes, supple, easy tannins, structure and good length. BCLS $23.99 LTO $22.99 to Sept. 1. 91 pts.
Luigi Bosca Malbec 2015 (Lujan de Cujo)
Made from 50 year old vines, hand harvested at 960 metres. Forward aromas of red and black berries and mocha precede a medium bodied palate. Vibrant fruit, violet, raspberry, blackberry, with sage and clove. Good acidity and approachable tannins over well integrated oak. BCLS $23.99, LTO $19.99 until Sept 1. 90 pts.
A white wine bargain
Torrontes grapes in Salta. Image courtesy Wines of Argentina
Finca Los Primos Torrontes 2017 (St. Rafael, Mendoza)
Argentina’s signature white grape makes for a perfect patio sipper or fresh seafood partner. Honey and floral notes followed by a fresh and juicy palate with apple, peach and a touch of citrus. At $12.99 it’s one of the liquor board’s best deals, even better at $11.99, LTO through Sept. 1.
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